Are all of the torque converters for a 1985 F150 with 302 and C6 the same? I have seen some listing pilot "nub" diameter but most do not. How about installing a converter bushing in the front pump housing, hard to do? I can make a pushing tool to fit into the new bushing so it does not get damaged. Think I would need anything more than that? I know the front pump housing will have to come off, so I'll need the o-ring seal. I'm thinking it is just a square O-ring behind the cover. The reason I'm asking is because I have to help my son with his car and it has this '85 ford transmission in it. His house is an hour away and I want to do it all in one trip.
I believe all of the stock type replacement converters are the same. As far as the bushing replacement, the pump will have to be dis***embled. You will need the appropriate seal drivers to remove and replace the bushing, making sure the bushing notch is installed correctly for the fluid feed hole. In addition to the large square ring, there are a couple of smaller square rings to replace. Check out a you-tube video for the procedure.
Is the nub smaller than the crank opening? Why do you think it has to fit snug in the crank? Don't the bolts center the converter
The converter seal is a lip type seal. You can install it without removing the pump. You need a driver to get around the stator support, but you could probably make one out of pcv pipe and a little ingenuity. The bushing is a different matter. The pump has to come out and apart to replace the bushing. If you have never been into an automatic, you need to realize that you can get the clutches out of alignment when removing the front pump. You need to have the oil pan off along with the valve body. To remove the pump on a C6 you need to pry between the pump body and the front clutch ***embly. It is probably best to have the trans on it's back. As you are reinstalling the front pump, have the input shaft installed and turn it as you tighten the pump bolts. I normally put a small vise grip on the shaft splines. If the shaft locks up, STOP, you have something inside of the transmission out of alignment. You have to pull the pump out and jiggle the clutch ***emblies while pushing in. Once you are reasonably sure they are bottomed, you can reinstall the pump and try again.
I’ll have to have a look at my spare converter but I think mine had a ring tack welded around the hub for the early 1.85 diameter crankshaft. Pretty sure all later, post 72-73 big blocks and all small blocks use the 1.375 pilot. Used to able to buy bushings for that issue.
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