The mockup you showed using card board, in steel would offer similar 'behavior' to bending and loadings. Don't grind the welds, tack it up, measure and square as much as possible, then 1"-2" welds each one placed to 'pull' against it's opposing most recent weld. When hard to reach, I try to hit a tough location and follow up with it's topside opposing-mate. (an easy one)
The question about having a Degree was hyperbole.......not a serious expectation that this particular poster, or most other posters, on this forum would have such accreditation. It was the 'cocksure" attitude of those posting their (unqualified) opinions that the OP's C-notch was "just fine" that riled me. Any reasonably mechanically savvy person would not have been so quick to endorse a questionable mod, especially when the very foundation of the vehicle was at issue. So, to your inquiry........I'm returning your smirk Ray
Thats the reason I dont do most other forums anymore, specially of the rodent variety, simply too much bad advice on things that could get someone hurt/killed. On safety aspects, some of the answers scare the crap out of me. Not as bad here, but even some here do. <that better?
If your frame measures 4 inches in height, make sure you end up with at least 4 inches in height measured perpendicular to every point along the C-notch.
duplicating the height almost gets you to the original strength. dubie says the additional 3-4" isnt going to be a problem with his floor because hes moving it anyway. but that could be a major ass ache for some folks. you could use 4 (one on each side of each frame rail) football shaped 5/16 (about 200% of rail thickness) plates with the c notch removed to match the frame. The top arch of the foot ball shape should rise above the c notch 50% of the widest part or the radius here. (that could be an elips and you would just use the widest part not radius) In this case that would wind up to be about 3/4" above the frame rail. Box between the foot balls. Deep C-noth with no problem causing frame rail deep lumps. that might save a guy from moving the floor
Hi There, I see you recieved a lot of good advice and some not so good. I,m with Ray on this one. But there is one thing i would like to say. I looked at all the pictures you posted and all about the noch out and how to strengthen it. I myself would take a Good look at the rest of the frame and decide if it should be boxed for strength of S--t canned. Because from what i am seeing, where it's was rusted and blasted looks pritty thin behind the area you boxed. You don't what to go through all that work and end up in a corn field the first time you give her the S--t. I have had many poeple building there Rods end up coming to my shop for Exhaust and end up performing a lot of frame work and corections to the vehicle before it hits the road. Take time and do it right and safe the first time. RC
There were a few spots of rot in the frame but they have all be replaced. The spot you see in the picture is paint. I gave the entire frame a hammered look by brushing on thick black rust paint and while it was wet, spraying on some silver. A few spots on the inner rails of the frame slid down and made a rotten looking spot. I assure you, it's all metal
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