alright i tried the search function in both hamb and tech archive and either im a dunce or there isnt a clear answer to my question. im wondering whats the best way to cut out the notch? cutting torch? or would this potentially warp or weaken the frame? cut off wheel of some sort? seems like it would be slow and hard to do without the body off... what have all of you done also what do you all use for the pipe section to be welded in? im ***uming just steel pipe but ya never know. lastly how deep of a c notch is safe? ill have to check and see if there is enough room to add a little tower notch if needed. thanks, sorry if im being redundant.
Your not being redundant, redundant... What is your application? If it is a bare frame with no body, it's pretty easy. If it is a running car, it's a little bigger pain in the ***. -Abone.
'64 galaxie...running car. its got 4 inch blocks and towing spring removed so its low...but im bagging it and it wont lay out unless i c notch it.
Not that I have done it BUT...I would use a square/rectangular tube of the same aprox. size as the frame rail. Say the rail is 4" high,weld the tube on top FIRST (to keep anything from moving). Then cut the part out from under it (inside of the welds DUH!) Box the open ends and you have a 4" notch. You can cut it out with anything you can get in there with but a Plasma cutter would make a simi clean cut and be damn quick about it. (fine print here...I am not to be held responable for you ****ING up your car by using this idea!!!!) LOL!!!
34Fordtk is right. But if you need to notch your frame, say, 2", you can get away with welding a 2" square tubing ( at least 1/8" wall) on top of the frame, then cutting out a 2" C, or notch, below. Then weld in another piece of 1/8" thick steel pipe, or flat stock, bent to fit. Really doesn't matter how you cut out the frame, cut-off wheel, plasma, or torch. Just don't go overboard with the cutting torch! You'll probably have to put a 'bump' in the trunk floor for it to fit, on each side. I posted a how-to on this, doing it "in car" on Kustom7777's Ford. Long time ago, though. Once you can get the car that low, you may also have driveshaft-tunnel interference as well. you may have to raise up the tunnel an inch or 2, at least in the rear section of the car. Don't forget to check your shock length when you get done, you may need to run a shorter shock as well!
Here is how I did mine. Not sure if this will help or not, but my frame was 4" tall. I found a piece of 8" pipe at the s****e yard and cut it in half to use for my notch then boxed it in. I did not cut the top of the frame, just the bottom and back side and fit the cut pipe in there. I still have a little work left to get it all done the way I want it, but it turned out really strong. The frame does not flex even with 2 guys jumping on it. We will see once it is on the road I guess. Here is a pic.
Don't mean to bust your bubble, Fiddy1F1, but that isn't safe! Don't trust it. I should know, I fixed a car that had that done to it, after a minor bang up. Folded like paper!
i agree.. that looks like it needs something on the top of the frame to give it a little more strength.
Strength comes from the vertical height, NOT the tube you put in the notch. So if you cut out 2 inches out of a 4 inch tall frame, you lose considerable strength, even with a tube or other piece welded inside. Follow the advice of the others and try to build on top of the frame an equal amount to what you remove in the notch, with overhang on each end of the notch at minimum twice the height of the piece. In other words if you cut out a roughly 2 inch tall and 4 inch wide notch, put a piece 2 inches tall by 12 inches long on top of the frame. Weld it GOOD, not pigeon-**** welds with no penetration. Do this and you will have many trouble free miles.
where space is limited on top of the frame you can add another plate in the middle of the frame. if you have a 2" notch with a midddle peice welded in it is almost equal to a 1" notch. middle plate should extend the with of the notch past each side. the tube should be welded to the bottom and side of the frame before any cuts are made. next the middle plate should be welded in on all sides finaly cut the notch out and weld the boxing plate in. you can also go back and weld the seam where it is cut so you have welds on both sides of the notch.
heres how I've been taught to do it: don't go more than half the frame in height: ie: 4" tall frame, notch is 2"- the stock used to fill in the c is .125 flat stock, but you can reinforce it with 3/16 on the inside to strengthen it- generally you want a notch size that is 2" bigger than the axle tube: 3"in tube, 5" c- generally you would box in front of, and behind the notch If you want to monster notch it, I've always gone at least .125 wall, and boxed the frame. the sky is the limit on how big, and the design, I always tack the outer and inners in, then tack the top on, and with good reiforcements on the frame, I cut the bottom out, tack it in, and reinforce. I keep measureing for square. I cut the top tacks off, fully weld the inside of the notch to the frame, etc., and then refit the top and fully weld the outside.- thats how I do them, its up to you- like someone else said, don't hold me responsible
I know its done all the time, and I know a lot of folks get away with it, But I'll bet you'd play hell to get an engineer to sign off on the majority of C'd frames I see here. It would probably be more advisable to add a frame rail on top of the existing frame that extended a foot beyond the cut in either direction. UglY? You bet. But strong and safe. To me a C'd frame is a lazy man's inferior channell job. OK, fire away.
122 You better first look under there REAL CLOSE thats a trailing arm rear. Two below and one adjustable on top. You try to get it too low there is a possibility the arms will bind. Also check the pinion angle and driveline clearance first. Remove the coil springs and shocks then let it down watching for binding and clearance. Thats the same ch***is thats in FEDSLEDS Merc its real busy on top with crossmembers and gussets. FEDER
feder, its actually a leaf spring rear. so when i put air bags on it im just going to remove all leafs except the main to locate the axle from side to side and then weld bag brackets on the axle and on the frame, to serve as springs as thats what they are. then ill probably get some smaller shocks and hopefully wont have to relocate. you guys are right about adding onto the top of the frame, ill have to look and see how much room i have or where the frame is in relation to trunk interior - see if it would be easy to cut for notch room. thanks for the replies.
Yea I am actually not through with it. I am going to do some more reinforcing on it before it hits the road.
2 link it with some nice heavy walled 2x2 tube steel. that will take care of axle rap. and you'll have an easier time setting up the bags at a two to one than going with the mono leaf bull ****.
WORD !..... that single locating leaf business is ********! ..... better step up and do it with a 2 link .....
The Jalopy Journal
