Ok i've been going through every post i can find on the 331, 365, and 390 cadillac motors and ***ociated hydramatic transmissions. I've used every combination of keywords i can think of and a lot of the info is harder to find than a witches ***, and a lot of old posts the linked photos no longer show. Here's the situation. I acquired a 1955 Cadillac 331 motor and matching hydramatic trans to swap into my 53 Kaiser Manhattan. I am ***uming the trans is a 4 speed dual range hydro given the year. The problems i have been running into with both the motor and trans is that they came incomplete and i'm trying to get my ducks in a row and figure out what's what before i go too far with it. THE MOTOR: The motor is missing the distributor, water pump, pulleys, oil system, and the carb. I have been reading the old posts so i know the interchangability of the parts i need along with searching for every photo i can to see how things are plumbed. But i've been having a PITA time finding what i need. Oil inlet/outlets, vacuum hookups, etc. I can handle the fab of the motor mounts and get it in place. Does anyone have any diagrams for this stuff? Can the oiling system be converted to a remote mount spin on filter? THE TRANS: I know there are multiple threads dealing with the hydras and i've read every one i could find from start to finish. Mine came without any linkage for the TV rod and the cadillacs long tailshaft section. And with the motor not even in position the end of the tailshaft is already going through my x-member. Does anyone have diagrams of the TV rod and how it's hooked up? Can the tailshaft section be swapped for another one that is shorter to give me the clearance i need? What has anyone else done for the trans crossmember mounts? The tailshaft has a yoke for the driveshaft that is installed, can this be removed and a slip yoke used so i don't have to have a 2 piece driveshaft? Any and all help would be appreciated, photos, scans etc. I know i could look for and buy a book on the motor to find all the diagrams but i wanted to ask here first. Thanks for any help. Alex
Alex: I can provide a photo of the TV rod setup. The tailshaft would involve removing most of the innards of the transmission to replace. I believe Kaiser Manhattan's used hydramatics in 53, but are meant for six cylinder power. So what you probably need to do is either shorten the driveshaft or get the short tail hydramatic from an Olds 88 or Pontiac Cheiftain years 54-56. They have the equivalent internals to your Cadillac box. The Olds 98's used long tails. The 55 engine is a very good engine, with the heads being changed that year for better breathing. What I would get is a 55 Cad shop manual. It will show you most of what you are looking for. As far as remote oil filter, that might be easier said than done as the oil filter is up on the top of the engine if IIRC. Probably 59 is where they started using the spin ons. The 331's and 365's used cartridge filters IIRC.
Thanks for the help! My manhattan came with the six locked and filled with water sitting on it's side in the engine bay. Someone grabbed the trans at the junkyard so i knew i needed new both and that i wanted an 8 to push the lug around. I'll see if i can find someone to trade the trans for the olds or poncho hydramatic. As well as a shop manual. I've seen photos of the stock oiling set up at the top of the engine. I know i'm a newb but what's the purpose? can the stock oiling locations be plumbed anew to a remote mount or do i need to stick with the cartridge filters? Thanks again! I'll pm you my email for that pic whenever you find the time.
Ok i got some answers. The remote filter: There's 2 lines, feed and return that run to a stock byp*** type filter mounted on the top of the motor. Can i just run new lines to a remote spin on filter to the firewall? I don't want to clutter up the top of my motor, cadillacs are just too damn beautiful.
I'd be interested in that info as well...my bro's '54 331" has the oil canister on top of the engine...and changing the valve cover gaskets on the driver's side is a real pain... I think '59 390" engines still had the canister type...not a spin off. R-
My 49 331 has a port on the lower front drivers side and one on top front drivers side inboard of the head. Both blocked off. I believe based on a Engine lubricating System diagram posted on another Cad post that the lower one is supply and the top one is return but can someone confirm that?
Haha understood, i'm pullin a 14 hour day at work with travel so i know all about it take your time i've got a long way to go just want to make sure the plan in my head is well conceived.
it's already a remote filter, so just put it somewhere else. the tailshaft needs to be far enough through the X member so the driveshaft doesn't hit the X member when the rear end hangs all the way down. you may have that problem with a shorty. the short TH400/500ci setup in my '50 cad is too short and has that problem. gotta find a long one. the hydro in my '49 goes through about 2/3 of the way.
Thanks a lot John that really answers all my questions. I just didn't know if mounting a new style spin on filter lower than stock would affect oil flow or not.
Thanks a lot John that really answers all my questions. I just didn't know if mounting a new style spin on filter lower than stock would affect oil flow or not. ******************************************************************Oil is pressure fed. Constant. Oil filter can be located anywhere. Basic fluid dynamics. Use oil lines at least 5/16" I.D.
I've run many cars with 331's. I have been under the impression that the canister location was for gravity return line. let me know too.
I'll agree that pressurized oil sysyems don't care where the filter is located, but use the biggest line possible. In fact, if you are doing a rebuild, consider opening up the ports in the block...½" (-8) lines are not too big... 5/16 is just plain puny and cold 30w is not going to like it. And for pete's sake, do not use any short right angle fittings cause oil doesn't like that even when it is hot. Restriction (pressure drop) is not your friend. .
They are a partial flow system. I dont think opening it up would be good. Who has a oiling path drawing.
Anyone have the diagram? MilesM i think the port you're thinking of is the stock feed port? On the top of the block just to the inside of the drivers side head? On the stock oiling system that was the feed and the return was into the oil fill neck. If i'm not mistaken. Anyone else? Looks like this could help out a few people.
That's what i was thinking b/c the old canister would drain when the car was parked and refill once the system was pressurized? These are all thing's i've been getting from other sources, i'm just trying to make sense of all of this so i don't destroy this motor haha.
Sorry about the TV diagram, will get to it tonight for sure. Need to get another HAMBER some info too. So tonight I will make all the efforts my old body can handle. I will try and get you an oil diagram for the Caddy engine too.
I was told the remote filter was optional on the first year but do not know for sure. Optional or not they are not a full flow system stock. Mine seem to have ports for lines that have been pluged. Might have to just get a direct mount gauge and find out what port has pressure for sure before adding a filter back in the system.
hey there...hopefully this helps, because i am in the same situation. the oil run goes from the oil fill tube to the filter canister and then to the block right beside the right valve cover (looking at the engine) . i am putting a 331 into a street rod coupe and want to avoid that big canister. i talked to tony at allcads (www.allcads.com) and he suggested A) just connecting the two ports together and avoiding a filter at all. the 40s cadillacs didn't have a filter...just change it according to driving habits and conditions. B) you can put a remote spin on filter but it can't be too low (along the frame) because the oil pump wasn't strong enough to pull/push oil from that great of a distance. that's why the canister was higher...gravity helped it out. his stongest suggestion was to avoid the spin on filter because dirty oil is better than no oil...
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