Hello, I am rebuilding a SBC 350 with the one piece oil seal and 2 bolt main. My heads are numbered 14102193. Anyways I am in need of a cam shaft as the one I have is rusted. I am looking for something to possibly boost my power a bit and give it that low idle. What duration and lift should I look for? How far can I push it without clearance issues? also I am going to go with a flat tappet cam as they are alot cheaper. What length push rods should I look for too?
You probably would get more appropriate responses if you were able to include some more info like details on the car the engine is going to be in and the uses it will see. Things like weight of the car, the rest of the drivetrain (auto or manual trans) rear gear, etc. Will the car be occasionally raced or strictly for street use? The rest of the engine details (are you bumping up compression with the rebuild?) type of induction you will be using, etc. All of this will determine your cam choice and whether you want your power band at say 1800 rpm-3600 rpm or 3500 rpm-6000 rpm.
I guess you didn't see my reply in your other thread about the engine? Might go back and read it, and see if you can figure out the answers to the questions I asked.
pmed... I am using a stock turbo 350, havent chosen a torque converter yet. I will be running headers, and as of now a edelbrock performer intake with a quadrajet. I am running the stock 193 heads so I am not expecting a m***ive amount of power, will probably be more torque and power in low rpm. Just looking for a cam slightly better then stock. Something that will give it that rough idle we all love, I would shoot for more higher rpm power, but with the 193 heads I dont think its too do able. Really just shooting for something in the range of 200-300 hp. Thinking I will proably go flat tappet unless I can find a used roller cam as I am trying to spend around 200 for a cam and lifters.
Summit Racing sells Melling camshafts under the Summit name. For what you're doing they will work great and cam/hydraulic lifters are just a little over a hundred bucks. I would also make sure your valve springs are up to snuff. I think the Howard's springs are about 80 bucks. (don't have the catalog in front of me) Anyways, for 200 clams you get a whole new matching set. Add a new timing set and some gaskets and you're in business for under $300. You should easily make 325+ hp. In camshaft selection, less is often more.
The one piece RMS and 193 heads, leads me to believe you probably have a factory roller block? I'd spend the few bucks more on a roller cam, and reuse the stock lifters, if my ***umptions are correct
9 posts on a sbc cam thread on the HAMB ,and no-one has told him to run a 30-30??!! Elgin sells Chevy hyd rollers for under $200. I can't speak as to how well they work, I won't have anything to do with hyd rollers.
For a guy such as yourself - I'd Bundle up the engine and send it down the road. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cleaning-up-a-old-350-sbc.1043491/ Someone that knows what's going on can make use out of it. You just go Get a new one and be done with it. It's way cheaper for you in both the long run and short run. It comes with a warranty and piece of mind. You can get it from Amazon, get the gift card and fuel perks It might be better for you to get a 1pc rear main style block and use your flex plate and balancer. Simple math required to figure that one out. You can mess around and learn on this engine if you want, I think the first thing you'll learn is how expensive things get. Then you'll learn how to find cheaper parts. Then you'll learn how the cheap parts don't fit. Then you'll learn how to get things wrong, and maybe straighten it out. Then you'll learn why cheap parts fail. Then after all that's completed and you're rebuild went south - then you'll learn why a crate engine is better for you. Now a guy like falconGeorge, you couldn't get him to use a crate engine if you gave it to him free and paid him to run it- It just ain't gonna happen. Squirrel, I'd guess he'll run the **** out of free crate engine, might even push it to its limits and give a very precise idea of how much it can actually handle before it ****s the bed, but I don't think he'd buy one. Me, I wouldn't use one for myself, I'll buy them for other folks because sometimes the crate engine makes too much damn good sense.
I would like to build this motor over buying a crate, I enjoy the challenge of building motors and am trying to learn as much as i can about it. It seems totally possible to me to replace all bearings hone cylinder get a new cam and put this thing together. I will need to check to make sure everything is within spec, I am just confused about buying a cam shaft. I am not sure what numbers i should shoot for when selecting one. I want to go with a flat tappet, motor is going into a 84 el camino, having my powerband being in the lower end would be good, as i have the 193 heads. I will need to get longer pushrods when switching from roller to flat tappet, how long will the push rods im looking for be? Is there a good way to measure or will it be a standard length.
One of the most common mistakes engine builders make when choosing a cam, says one cam supplier, is jumping to the bottom of the catalog page and picking the cam with the biggest numbers. Or, picking a hot cam that has the potential to deliver really big numbers without actually thinking through whether or not this is what a particular application really needs. Much more to the story here. http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015/07/camshaft-selection-and-design/
Hey so I think I figured out some parts, first the cam https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1102 How would this cam be for my build, I hear its pretty close to stock, can I push it and get a slightly bigger cam or is that going to be to much. How do I find out what length pushrods to use. Then I found this timing chain https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-c-3023x Is this a good timing chain? When buying a rebuild kit it asks for my bearing and piston size, I think everything is std but how can I check?Is there a marking or just measure the bore?
I don't care how it runs, drives, or if it falls on its face, or if it can't pull an old woman off a bed pot, ok I don't care,,,, all I care about is a Lope idle . Mannnn it's gotta have the rump rump rump rump when I'm sitting still, when I'm idling thru the fair grounds I want it to sound like a bad ***! Not an *** that's bad, a bad ***- noamsain?
"A little *** never hurt anybody" On the other hand; a big *** Anybody want a "Noisy" Pete Jackson gear drive? Bring me a Cloyes (made in USA) true roller and we'll trade. Installed it, never turned a gear. They are so yesterday.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Isnt that a direct marketing quote for "Thumper Cams" ? Oldmics
So seriously what do you guys think about that cam shaft? Will it work well with how i have my motor set up?
You have a roller block, put a roller cam in it!!!! Couple more !! There's guys who spend gobs to retro fit a roller cam in an older block. They have troubles with parts quality. Flat tappets have all sorts of trouble because of today's oil formulation.
It all depends on what you expect out of the engine. I just did a '74 vintage 350 over and I probably have $5000 into it. My original budget was $2000 but it got out of hand. I wanted to do it right once. The block and crank were checked, the crank turned .010 under, block bored .030 over. Speed Pro 10:1 flat top pistons, **** rods, Lunati Voodoo flat tappet cam, Lunati roller rockers. Dart aluminum SHP heads and matching intake (a Summit steal), Holley 700 double pumper and a small body HEI distributor. I took my time with the ***embly, checked everything 3x. Broke in the cam the right way and am pleased with the performance. The idle with the cam is noticeable but has great street manners. The Summit cam you mentioned might be fine for what you want to do. Back in my broke days, we did lots of engines with just a new cam, lifters, valve springs, timing chain and a carb upgrade. Upgrades from there like a valve job, headers and so on will escalate a budget build quickly. You also get to the point where you have to protect the components that you have added. One thing leads to another.
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