I posted this question on Ford Barn also. I'm trying to fit an F1 box and column into my 31 roadster on Deuce rails. Only problem is the shaft is a few inches too long. Anyone know how to shorten it. I can't move the box forward as it would interfere with the motor mount. Don't want to go to a Vega box if I can help it. Any help appreciated. Don
Yes. Remove the steering wheel and outer tube. That will expose the shaft itself. Two ways to do it...Either cut off what you don't need then re-spline the shaft OR, cut off what you don't need a little down fron the splines then weld the end back on. This shaft IS what keeps your front tires doing what you want them to do, so consider that when welding (of finding someone to weld) the joint. I reccomend beveling the **** out of the joint before welding. Good luck, -Abone.
PS. Kinda self explanitory, but... Cut off the same ammount from your outer collar and re-install on the shaft.
Iv'e done a few F-1s. Salami cut the shaft, weld and grind then slip a sleave over the weld. Now weld the sleave..Be sure its done by a good welder!!!.....Ran one like that for over 300K miles..Cut the column cover at the bottom and yer good to go.....OLDBEET
For a HAM operator, you're pretty funny Carl. I'd guess he means like a balogna cut, or a diagonal cut.
Just jumping in here...anybody think one kinda cut is better than the other? Taper each end down before welding, or diagonal??
I prefer the diagonal (salami) cut myself. But maybe I am just biased, Old Beets still driving his F-1, salami cut in 79.
Belt and Braces. When I did mine I cut the outer column then the shaft in half and cut the length off i wanted to shorten it by.. Put a solid tight fitting dowl down the cntre of the two pieces of bevelled shaft, which helped to align it. Welded it round the bevel. Then put pins through both shaft and dowel, welded them . And then slid a piece of tube over the whole of that, pins through everything, welded them and welded the ends of the tube to the shaft. Did mine with the shaft out of the steering box .- Just be sure it will all fit throughbox again and the end. Over engineering rules !
Thanks for all the advice, everyone. One other thing... The mast jacket has 2 bushings(I think) in it to align the shaft. If you weld on an outer sleeve how do you get the jacket back on ? I have a 38 mast jacket and it's the same diameter as the F1 jacket but I haven't tried to remove the bushing yet. Are they easily removed without destroying them? Thanks again.
Don't know if you have Tractor Supply's in your area, but they have nice flanged ball bearings that fit in the top of Ford columns and have a 3/4 hole for the shaft. About $2 I think
[ QUOTE ] Just jumping in here...anybody think one kinda cut is better than the other? Taper each end down before welding, or diagonal?? [/ QUOTE ] Neither cut will be better that the other. Some people mistakingly relate it to glueing. (more surface area stronger joint) If the weld is done correctly, how it was cut will make no difference. personally I think a baloney cut would be harder to get properly aligned but if you like it that way, it will be just as strong if properly welded. IMHO
[ QUOTE ] Belt and Braces. When I did mine I cut the outer column then the shaft in half and cut the length off i wanted to shorten it by.. Put a solid tight fitting dowl down the cntre of the two pieces of bevelled shaft, which helped to align it. Welded it round the bevel. Then put pins through both shaft and dowel, welded them . And then slid a piece of tube over the whole of that, pins through everything, welded them and welded the ends of the tube to the shaft. Did mine with the shaft out of the steering box .- Just be sure it will all fit throughbox again and the end. Over engineering rules ! [/ QUOTE ] This is a good answer, and yes It is over engineered. But thats not a bad thing. Since the shaft is hollow I have done the same thing with the solid shaft inside and then welding the two pieces back togeather and then pinning the two halfs to the shaft and welding the pins too. I have done this on three different cars and have been very happy with the results.
The reason the shaft is hollow is to accept horn wire. If your not concerned about the horn a dowel pin is a good idea. A sleave works good to keep the shaft hollow alowing for horn wire and if you cut the case or housing at the box end you don't have to remove the top bushing or bearing of the collum or housing.
Another good way to keep the shaft strait would be to lat the shaft inside a piece of good heavy angle iron. Bevel the shaft on both sides, clamp the shaft in the angle iron, tack weld and find a pipe sleave to make sure your shaft is still strait. Finnish welding 100% then for good measures slide the sleave over the welded shaft in the center and weld the sleave to the shaft.
K-Member, Thats how I did mine. It's working out good. I used the A column cover over the F1 shaft and have the two levers to play with, choke, or what ever. I had a key way to align for my wheel instead of splines. That took a little time to make sure the 40 wheel was stright. Go for it. Sand Man
Good answers so far. I did the exact same thing to a 59 F-100 box. I shortened the hollow shaft by cutting out the section oin the middle and welding together using a good beveled edge on both pieces. I clamped it in a piece of angle iron to keep it aligned and tacked several spots. Then welded away using a hot weld for real good penetration. Always make sure that any structural type weld has good penetration. Once the shaft was done, I just cut off the bottom of the outer tube, as it just slides over the box.
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