I'm utilizing a hydraulic throw out bearing on a project and I think that I'm falling short on the amount of throw on the pushrod. I made a brake & clutch pedal ***embly out of a set of Model A pedals. I'm thinking that the tab I welded on for the rod end that pushes the throw rod is too close to the fulcrum. The travel with the pedal fully depressed is 1.1" I'd like to see what anyone else is getting for a measurement to see if I'm in the ball park or not. It will disengage the ****** into neutral but grinds the gears a bit when putting it into gear.
The s-10 hyd. units travel right close to 1.500". What hyd master are you using? I've got a couple hyd. bearings that came in kit form that've used in circleburners, and they range from .750" stroke to 1.250" stroke. Can you take and hold the pedal down, then remove the pin that holds the rod end into your tab, then see if you can push the rod further? By doing so, if there is more travel in the master, you could either do that and with a helper see if the trans will shift into gear or adjust out all of the free play, as to "preload" the master and then push pedal down and see if it will shift. You should be able to do this as a test to see if it is a travel issue.
The ****** is a t5 The m/c is a willwood that is matched to the Howe htob. I did have a helper actuate the pedal while I was under the car that's how I measured the throw of the rod. I did take the pin out to try and push the rod in by hand therefore seeing if there is more throw to be had by the m/c. There is no way in hell I could push it in far enough without some mechanical advantage I do like the idea of preloading the m/c as I feel the slightest amount of additional throw would put me where I would want to be. Tomorrow I'm going to make a temporary bracket that bolts to the mounting tab for pushrods to extend that point further away from the fulcrum giving more throw. I'll let you know how that works out.
When making a set of Model A pedals work I incorporated adjustability into the mount that I made. It was in its most forward position so I adjusted it back 1/4 of the way without shortening the push rod. The pedal pad came rearward about 2" but I gained a little more throw at the pushrod giving me 1 1/2" of travel vs. the 1.100" that I had. I'm confident that this will solve my problem I'll know for sure once I get the car down off of the stands and started.
Some of the t5 are known to grind a little when trying to get into 1st gear, sometimes you can just slip into reve**** or 5th, then put it into 1st.
I appreciate the response! This is a new build so I'm woking all of the bugs out. The motor has only about 1/2 hr of break-in and I only took it from the grage to the driveway once which is when I didn't think the clutch wasn't disengaging all of the way. I'm going to take care of other various things while its in the air but as soon as its down and running I'll keep ya's updated!
^^^ What Don said ^^^. That is your gauge of how much travel you need on the pushrod. Crack the bleeder at the bearing end and catch the fluid as you push the M/C until it bottoms out. I'd sure think the 1 1/2" you're getting now should be enough, though!
Be careful trying to pre-load the master cylinder, you want to make sure it releases all the way and has a little free play, or you'll burn the clutch up in short order.
The car is still in the air but I think the problem wasn't the m/c or TOB. It was the variable of the fabbed up clutch pedal not having sufficient throw at the pushrod. In addition I had to modify the input shaft & front bearing retainer housing on the t-5 to accept using a conventional 4 spd htob. A t-5 output shaft is approx. 5/8" longer than a Saginaw/Muncie/BorgWarner 4 spd. I just recall the throw being more than what I had (1.1") when I did the same setup with a Muncie. Moving my pedal ***embly fulcrum back 1" gave me 3" more throw at the pedal pad and about 1/2" more at the pushrod which should have me in good working order.
Everything is good! I appreciate everyone's response. It's off to the exhaust shop the first of next week. Tomorrow I plan on fabbing up a 1" spacer for the shifter plate to bolt to. I will be redrilling the t-5 shifter fulcrum up 1" also. This should really help me feel that I'm not rowing a boat when going thru the gears when I get to drive it!
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