Here's one I run on my drag car. When I switched to a crossflow cylinder head and moved the intake to the "drivers" side the mag crashed into the intake manifold so I built a right-angle gearbox to lay it down. What others said about the mag needing small plug gaps is true because the output voltage varies with the RPM. So the faster you spin it the hotter the spark. At idle speeds when output voltage is low you will foul out plugs if gaps are not reduced. One other disadvantage is that you need a signal converter box to use an electronic tach. Or else use a mechanicall tach.
Why a magneto? Answer; Before electronic ignition, when points ignition was the only stock thing, rpm was limited because the faster the distributor turns the weaker the spark gets. Hence, the magneto solved that probloem because the faster a magneto turns the hotter the spark, only thing at idle/low rpm mags don't work too good. Now with electronics, the use of a magneto is not as popular, unless you are running dragster, race, without a battery/alternator.
Make sure you have a good cap on that mag and don't spin it without ignition wires attached to s/plugs. The spark is so intense it will burn a hole on side of coil to metal ground. I've setup many Vertex mags and biggest problem was shorted coils.
Greg, I'm sorry to tell you, but that will NEVER work!!! Don't you know that IF you tip a MAG that far down - all the electrons will fall out???!!!!??? Surely you are pulling our legs!!!
Look close at that picture...lots of neato parts in there....and time slips to match..... Greg's a sharp feller to say the least. Spill the beans Greg - let's hear some stats!!!!
i agreed what frenchtown flyer comment my 1932 rod got magneto keep check plugs gap should not problem work brilliant must have kill switch for turn it off that simple
I have run a Vertex mag on my stock small block for two years. I run resistor plugs, gapped at .020". It has the advance plates inside that are centrifically spun outward as the rpm increases. They come stock this way or with a fixed plate, which is commonly used in dragsters and sprint cars. I have driven my truck all over Ohio and Kentucky, it runs great. I set my initial timing at 8 degrees BTDC. And run regular gas. I get 15mpg, compared to using a stock HEI, which gave me 19mpg. Using the new MSD WIRES, no interference occurs with your radio,or others nearby. Course, I don't have a radio, I like to listen to the engine!
Good point HemiRambler. I solved that problem by drilling a hole in the bottom of the distributor cap and plugged it with a "Proton Plug". As we all are aware protons repel electrons so the electrons all bunch up in the bottom of the mag until they are needed to "leak" out. I have been racing Ford 300s for some time. I acquired a crossflow prototype cylinder head casting and built it into the piece you see. So far the best it has gone was 9.03 @ 147 MPH. But recent carb upgrades screwed up my fuel curve - some places it was rich and some places it went lean - and I think I now have the handle on it. I'm expecting 8.80s @ 150+ next spring. The rest of the engine is typical hi-dollar bracket racing stuff - forged pistons, roller cam, aftermarket rods, oiling system upgrades, etc. Since I am trying to bracket race it I still have to run water through it sos I can hot lap it if need be. That is a bigger challenge than might seem as head gaskets are the weak link in this engine and water in the oil is not a good thing for reliability. Thanks for asking. 6=8
ok, so they mess with radios and cellphones. do they do the same with an ipod type system like someone posted a thread about?
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