Technical Can you coach a complete novice through wiring a shoebox?

Hey guys, I would like to preface this by saying that before starting the build my brother and I had access to a complete shop and the knowledge of our uncle who could handle just about anything. Now we have neither and the build has slowed significantly.

Wiring is my task, bro wanted to pay and I said for the price of a kit let me try it first. The whole damn point was for us to build the car. Anyways, I got fed up trying to figure out what multiple owners had Jerry rigged over the years and am starting as clean as possible, except there’s a few things laying around I am not sure if I need to incorporate or not.

I made a list of questions so far and I am sure I’ll come back for more. Hopefully this awesome group will take the time to share answers. I did find a good YouTube video from some guys that did a shoebox, and I am going to benefit a lot from that. There are some few things I need more on so I came here. I’d like to get everything I need together before I get to deep and have to reverse anything or get a big delay.

my base, I understand electricity. There’s a magic box that creates a force that surrounds the car, binds it together, and from which both positive and negative energy flow.

I’ve decided to mount the fuse block upside down on the drivers side kick panel (name?) under where the parking brake is. Seems to be most out of the way spot.
1. What should I use to mount the fuse block? Some of the plastic spacers and self tapping sheet metal screws?
2. what are all these things mounted everywhere? One I figured out off a part number is a voltage regulator. If I have an alternator and the voltage drop things for the gauge do I even need anything between the fuse panel and everywhere else.
3. I got this with a couple extra circuits, the only thing we are adding from original (it’s got a magic air thing under the dash I am guessing doesn’t need a separate circuit) is a bear claw latch and popper for the trunk. A previous owner shaved it and it has not latch right now. Shoebox central guys told me the originals were **** so I went this route instead. How many circuits do I need back there?
4. I got the sockets to convert the front marker lights to turn signals, what kind of bulb does that take?
5. I have two grommets here for the firewall (and a whole bunch of little ones) one came with the kit and said drill a hole through the firewall and press it in. But I don’t want to make an extra hole if I don’t need to and this is too small for existing. I have another one that has a metal retainer. On the big hole there now, there is a small hole next to it that looks like it lines up with this retaining ring. I’d need a second one though. Is this the right. Grommet setup?
6. how is this for wrap, I have this tubing like a finger trap that you can slide on and make it tighter then tie wrap it on. Good option? I think I should ask up front so I can put it on as I go.

Thanks guys. My brother wants to take it to a show in a couple weeks and I am gone all next weekend. Some long nights ahead.

Red

 

You need to separate the wires into front engine, dash/interior, then the long line to the rear.

mount the main fuse box up near the kickpanel behind the dash. make sure to have good ground on all parts.

the kit should have came with its own schematic. Also the wires have names on them.

 

Mount the fuse block in a hidden, but accessible location. (Commonly the drivers side, above the dashboard sight line, towards the kick panel)

If bolting through the firewall, I like to use carriage bolts, believe it, or not, outside to in. I drill the hole to the size of the square, and let the corners cut in to to the metal. Preinstall the bolts by drawing them in with a socket as a spacer, and washer/nut. This leaves a bolt head, but a smooth, purposeful one. They will disappear in plain sight..

Roll out each wire, which will be labeled for function on the jacket, every foot or so, to where they need to go, following the original pathways.

The grommet setup you show will work just fine, and reasonably looks the part for the age of the vehicle.

Connect everything to the destination, Bundle and tape wrap the bundles. The mesh style works fine too, but can be fussy to get it put on and even. There exists the mesh style that is wraparound, and is easier to install, without a modern look.

That is: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/wire-looms/wrap-around-sleeving-6/

Dual filament bulbs used for either parking/turn or tail/stop lamps are 1157, or 1157A, with the A being for amber, if it has clear lenses in the front.

 

As for the wiring diagram for the car, as original, Van Pelt Sales has those on their website:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_drawings_electrical.htm

That will get you all of the foundational stuff.

They you only have to figure out the "extra" stuff that was added on.

 

Wiring 101 | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

Technical - Crimping Tutorial | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

 

The item marked block of unknown is a ballast resistor which reduces the voltage to the coil to 9v from 12v. Its there ultimately with the purpose of prolonging the life of the points.

Chris

 

And to prevent overheating the coil. Not all electronic ignitions need this, check with your manufacturer if using one.

 

My advise is buy the kit and be done with it. I only know a couple of guys who can do a top rate job of wiring one from scratch and one of those is a retired phone company tech. His work was a work of beauty but when he retired from the phone company he quit wiring cars. I'm not saying that you can't do it without a kit but after you buy the rolls of different color and different gauge wire with correct colors for the circuits so somone who follows you in the future can make sense of it you have as much tied up in rolls of wire as you do a kit. I have cussed the guy who thought it was cool to wire a whole car with one color of wire and on the side of the road at night when you are trouble shooting an electrical problem that is one big pain in the ***. It's best to follow standard GM color coding that all of the wire kits use.

 

I wired my '54 (pretty close to a shoebox) and converted it to 12v. Is yours original? Now would be the time to go 12v. I'm a visual guy so here's some pics that might give you an idea of the basics. I removed the dash and mounted the fusebox up high, behind the dash on drivers side.....



As stated, all wires going to the front, ran and coiled up, same to the rear......



All interior wires coiled up and stored in the interior until ready to connect......

My engine harness was separate and need to be spliced into the new harness.....

 

I have this kit and it did come with a diagram. If I have the kit do I keep the ballast resistor? Which block is it? .

evintho great pics! I’m visual learner I think. that is the same spot I was thinking of mounting. There are so many things up tight behind the dash on the firewall I don’t see a clean spot to use that guarantees there won’t be interference. The kit is rebel 9+3.

There is a block in the instructions that I don’t understand what it is. Probably a common symbol that I just don’t know. Are my pictures showing.

Thanks for all the links guys I’m using them.

 

The block with 3 wires going to it is the horn relay, the ceramic one above the regulator is the ballast resistor.

 

Rdoty has a thread going about rewiring his 1963 Chrysler imperial over on the Garage Journal. It features some new components and tools you might find informative.https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/upgrading-old-car-electrical-system.509294/

 

If you are referring to picture showing an engine block, you need to show the whole page. Descriptive words are cut off the picture. Most likely the wires to (subject to confirmation):
a. Water temperature sensor (sender)
b. Oil pressure sensor (sender)
c. Non-electronic (points) distributor

Russ

 

I used a Kwik Wire harness on my car, great instruction book and schematic. I used the stock Ford schematic when I hit a roadblock. I made up a "harness board" and ran the circuits out first. Figure where you want the fuse panel and main bundle to go. Find a good place to secure the main bundle under the dash. My dash was out which made it easier. I made a sub-plate to mount the fuse panel to the floor, up high as possible and not be in the way.

 

A kit that is marked with what the wire goes to makes it doable for most anyone. It will take much longer than you would think but as stated separate the wires by where they go, then start one wire at a time. I know Steve feels all
kits use undersized wires, but remember you can replace any wires you feel need upgrading after they are run.

 

front lights I would think 1157 bulbs . I would use amber. basic wiring you need power & ground to make anything work

 

Well had this post been made prior to purchasing a wiring kit, I'd have recommended a different wiring system. From what I see of your kit it's going to make wiring it in as a newbie to this a lot more difficult since it doesn't have as complete a harness as a full wiring system usually has.
My first system was a base 8 circuit very similar to yours, and even as a retired electrician, and life long hotrodder it took me days and lots more wire to finish it. Since then I've purchase 20-21 circuit universal wiring systems, and they take about 8-10 hours to do. And they give me new complete wiring right down to each final device. They're also grouped to each area such as dash, trunk area, and under hood. So easy to locate the fuse box, and then run groups out to each area to final connections.
I buy them for around $100, and have used them on the last 6 cars I wired for myself and others. They work fantastic, and instructions are easy to follow too.

 

There are many wiring kits on the market and they are all different, some kit's give you the basics and some give you every thing you need, including individual color instructions for each task,

Years ago I use to fabricate my own kits, today I buy a quality kit and never worry about having any problems in the future.

I've tried most of the kits available, they all seem to do the job, I lie the American auto wire kits, they cost a little more but you get everything you will need and enough individually marked wire to do a bus, meaning more than enough wire.

I've used this kit on at least 6 cars and it is a good selling point when it come time to send the car or truck down the line. HRP

 

i did one many moons ago, and one thing--did you, or are you gonna run the wires to the trunk through the roof? there's a channel for the wiring at the top of the windows, and i remember using the old wires to pull the new wires through.
my current shoebox was rewired about 30 years ago and the wires were run under the carpeting, which i don't care for!

 

Same here. I always run them over the driver's door on cars when possible. If that's not an option I strap 3/4" EMT tubing to the inside of the frame rail and slide them through it under the floors. Anything is better than on the floor, under carpet.

 

I ran my rear wires along the transmission tunnel, through some mil-spec shrink sleeve. The OG wires were run the same way. In the past I have used those flat GM plastic pieces to route wires, they would give them away in the junkyards. You are not talking about a big bundle, maybe 10 wires total. The only thing I ran up the A pillar was the dome light wiring.

 

I agree with the guys that run them along the roof. My last car didn't have room to run them there and had to settle for the floor route. Hate doing that. We were all novice builders at one time and the currently available harnesses really simplify the job.

 

I planned to use the existing channel over the doors. And same thing pull through with the old ones.
Guys I am more than willing to buy a better easier kit now before getting in. I haven’t mounted the fuse block yet, I went and got spacers and bolts Sunday but wanted to finish ready and I leave in an hour to go out of town. I could order a better kit and have it here next week. I don’t know if shoebox central would take this one back but better to spend money than time (which I don’t have much of).
I appreciate all the help. This is what happens when a novice does their own shopping

 

Just remember wiring is just like a journey, take one step at a time! If you look at the wiring as whole it can be intimidating, just work one wire at a time.
Also make GOOD connections , see the “ crimping” thread on here! Very important.






Bones

 

Not dissing you but "" behind the dash on drivers side."" means you are one flexable guy!

 

Locating the fuse block is key to everything, so is the main bundle location. It makes the rest of the job easier. Mock up a fuse block mount from some s**** wood. My Ford had no fuse block from the factory and space was tight on the left side of the firewall, but I'm happy with it and it is accessible, yet not in the way of anything.

 

You have the Rebel kit. I used a Rebel last year on my 56 Ford. It was a simple and easy to use kit. They also have good tech support but I didn't need to take advantage of it.

 

I used the Rebel 9+3 in my Shoebox. I mounted the fuse block on the driver's side firewall down low...I wanna be able to access it easily. Pulled the wire bundles close to their destination, took my time and did it myself. But....I started with an absolute bare shell. No original electrical left in the car at all.

 

Sent you a message. If you need any questions answered on how to approach this wiring, let me know.

 

You are all great! I’m running wires after breakfast. Clearly I can wrap a lot of it after the fact. Some would seem I need to do ahead of time, like the rear wiring that goes in the channel and the headlight wiring. I like the wrap that was on there before, seems like an electricians tape but had no residue. Are any of these good options?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIp8brzfX8_gIVABetBh0M1AAMEAQYAyABEgK9PfD_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890351

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kcw-9100

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-165110

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890357#overview