Can you have a coil AND points?

I have NO CLUE about points. I see a coil (Older than me) next to the cap, does this mean that this car (49 Packard Deluxe Eight) no longer has points or did they use both?

 

The points opening and closing are what charge the coil trigger it to fire. So yes, you would have both.

 

yes , you can have a coil and points....something has to trigger the spark

 

Well Ill be damned, now I have to learn about points!

 

Not only can you ... you must.
When the points close, the coil charges up...
When the points open, the coil releases its energy.... and creates the spark to the particular plug at that time....

 

The points are under the distributor cap, and if the car hasn't been tuned up in a long while they almost certainly need replaced. Not a big job, but if you can find someone to help you the first time who has done it before it will go a lot quicker. (Typically it's a 20 minute job to replace and adjust the points.)

 

take the cap off and look inside the distributor ...you will probably see points

 

You have a long journey ahead of you gr***hopper...

 

Dont forget the charge is held momentaraly by the condensor. A small can like object that is replaced at the same time as the points.

Ron

 

damn your young !
points are what sticks out on a girls shirt !!

 

Yeah I saved it from about a 3 1/2 year sleep, changes ALL of the fluids and drove it around town for a few days, ran rough above 2000RPM so I was working on a tune up next. I would like to learn how to do points to keep the car as OG as possible, I will keep a spair set in the glove box also. Soooo who want to tell me about points?

 

youtube it....seriously....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c&feature=related

 

You aint ****tin'!

 

Its very easy to change the points and to set the gap with a feeler gage... also look into changing out the condensor at the same time. I used to change points, condensor and spark plugs all at the same time. The cost was minimal, and what a difference this all makes! Plugs will need to be checked for gap as well... if you do all of these things, you might as well look at changing out the rotor and distributor cap too! You will be amazed at how easy this can all be, with a little guidance from the HAMBERS!

 

checking O'reilly , Napa , and Borg Warner websites they all show a distributor cap , rotor and coil available. but no points and condenser. you may have to do some digging to find new ones....maybe Kanter?

 

Okey dokey:
Points are located in the distributor just below the rotor and up against the center shaft. As the distributor shaft rotates the points open and close. If they are dirty, rusted, bent, or out of adjustment the car will run rough or not at all.

If you look online you may be able to find a YouTube video of someone replacing a set of points. (It's pretty much the same operation on any car regardless of year or make or engine so don't worry about that.)
What you need is a set of points and a condenser for your specific car and engine. If local parts stores don't carry them you can probably find them online or even on eBay. I don't know Packards but there's got to be at least one or two businesses out there that specialize in parts for them. Use Google to find them.

To replace the points and condenser you'll probably need a couple screwdrivers. Just pay close attention as you take things off and be sure to put the new ones in just the same. Do NOT remove the spark plug wires from the distributor cap unless you have to, and if you do have to MARK THEM before you remove them. A piece of masking tape on the plug wire and a matching piece on the cap is all it takes. Number or letter them however you want, but what matters is that the same wires go back to the same posts they came off of.

To really do the points job right you need a dwell meter and a timing light, but I changed them plenty of times as a teenager just by adjusting them in and out a little bit until the engine sounded the best.

I do not know if Packard points can be adjusted while the car is running. If not, I urge you again to find someone who knows how to do this and have them help you through it the first time. You can't really damage anything unless you break stuff in the distributor, but points installed incorrectly will keep the car from running until they are fixed.

Good luck!

 

Yeah I am good with the rest or the tune up, I have even built a few fast SBC's before but the only thing that I have ever been told about points was to throw them as FAR as possible as SOOON as possible! I am down to learn tho!

 

There you go. Posted while I was typing my long response.
Damn, I love the internet age!!

 

On a stock motor the points will work just fine as long as you don't mind adjusting and/or replacing them every now and then. BUT like I said they will make the motor run terrible or not at all if/when they do go bad.

 

Thanks 36, thanks atomic! Gona be the first kid on the block to know how to **** with points! lol

 

Holy f#*k ,do I feel old. Lets teach em right

 

Now you are about to learn a TRADITIONAL lesson,,Lord only knows how may sets of points I went thru in my younger days! HRP

 

Funny how some of my rides "back in the day" would need constant point maintenance and others would go 2 years without any adjustment. peace

 

Always had a matchbook cover as an on the road emergency feeler gauge for points.

 

I learnt all about points in auto shop. bet they don't teach you about points in school any more.

 

how many schools even have auto shop?

 

Don't leave the ignition switch in the on position without the car running, it may burn the points and coil. A good resistor wire between the coil and points will keep the point voltage low. One and a half to two volts is best, points will last a lot longer. Harley

 

You must be young The distributor is my favourite part of the motor as it does so much, from the points switching power to the coil to create the spark to the two advance systems and spark distribution- so complex and yet so simple. Have fun learning, its such fun

 

You forgot the "repeat if necessary" part...

 

After you set the gap with feeler gauges, check it with your dwell/tach before timing it. You don't have a dwell/tach?