Can you have a coil AND points?

As far as the br*** feeler blade goes, the condenser holds a charge even when ignition is turned off. Just like using non magnetic feeler blades on electronic parts .

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If your distributor cap is real old check the inside of it for carbon tracking too. Aslo look for any cracks in it. Spitting out the carb is from cylinder firing when it shouldn't. Possible timing chain might have jumped on you. I would check inthe cap first though since it is easiest to do.

 

PackardWood, been reading your thread on the PackardInfo site too. Keep in mind that Packards came with Delco Remy and Auto Lite distributors. I believe the Auto Lites were just on the senior 356 engine and the 327s and 288s had Delco equipment. The Delco parts are easier to find and less expensive. There should be a metal tag on your distributor with a number stamped on it. Use this number to get your parts. Good luck, and let us know how all of this goes.

(o[]o)

 

Just to make sure I will remove the condenser when doing the points as for the br***, I was tired or I would have called BS on that last night, the rotor AND the strike points in my cap are br***!!.....FNG! Thanks for ANY and ALL help and advice just the same!

 

I was thinkin magnetos . Been a long day.

 

I have gone from FNG to .... Newbie.....WOOT WOOT!

 

I is! lol

 

Thanks. Mine is the 4.7L 288, and the rotors are TOTALLY different shapes (makes it easy to tell which one you have) and mine matches the Auto-Lite one I put a new rotor on there and it did the same thing still so it is in the trunk with the cap and coil for raod side repairs, I plan to put A LOT more parts in the trunk, IF I can ever stop putting them under the hood!

 

Yeah I looked and the cap seems fairly new. Also I am about to go buy a set of points, condenser, (I am sure that they have several in stock for a '49 Packard Deluxe Eight!) and attempt the be the last man on earth to purchase a points file. I feel like a monkey trying to figure out how to get in to a coconut!....Only difference is that I am sure that sooner or later the MONKEY will be successful in his endever! As for the timing chain, I have never actually had one do that tho I know it is possible, plus it ran and idled pretty good when I parked it.

 

You sir are full of misinformation! Br*** is a MUCH better conductor of electricity ,why do you think it is used in switches??? It is a alloy of copper which is a excellent conductor. In 50+ years in the automotive field damaging a condenser by using a metallic feeler gage is something I have never heard of ,nor been mentioned in any of the schools that I attended put on by Delco etc.
I call total BS !!!! You think the world is flat also ???

AND by the way when the points are closed with the switch off the condensor is then discharged by grounding which is the same as shorting!!!!

 

You've got a good at***ude. Dammit! I wish you lived closer. I'd come over and give you a hand. I've been following this thread, looking forward to when you get this thing fired up again. I imagine you're getting a little frustrated at this point, but keep after it. It's got to be an ignition/timing related issue. Forget about the timing chain for now. The odds are against that being the problem.

Are there any old farts (like me) in the area who can lend this gentlemen a hand?

 

I bought a Motors Manual off ebay yesterday, should be here soon and will be read COVER TO COVER! And yeah, working on old cars is fun for me, especially when I own them! It was just loosing it's thrill some around 2:30am this morning, after my failed jump-start attempt, as I pushed the 3 ton car (for the second time) down the driveway in a light rain. While I was wrestling that ******* back in its carport I bumped the train horn on accident and got to hear my wife from the upstairs window asking me "what the hell are you doing!?" while I finished up.

 

Just curious, have you had alot of rain there since you last parked it? Does it sit outside?

 

Yeah I am new to the H.A.M.B. but I thought that this was/is a damn good thread too! It is gona fix the next dude right up when he (or she) is looking for info!

 

It is under a BIG car port and stays dry, the day this started it had not rained, but it has rained every day since. Just for me! lol

 

thanks!

 

Thanks! I have family down there (Coopers). AUSI AUSI AUSI, OI OI OI!

 

Thanks! I am not going to sell it, just like when any ***** is giving me problems I say stuff I don't mean. I would rather keep right on PUSHING my Made in the U.S.A. car back and fourth in the driveway then to zoom around in a Jap car! Tell your neighbor I said NICE CAR, damn near IMPOSSIBLE to keep a Black car looking right, but when you do, they look sooo good! I had a guy on the PAC or might have been the Packard info site tell me that before I knew it I would be trying to figure out what OTHER kind of fine Packard I would like to buy. Well I figured it out, a '52 like your neighbor, what model it his?

 

Amen!

 

Why did this remind me of Stephen King's CHRISTINE ??

 

Not sure on the model. He's had it 40 years!! Was repainted with laquer 20 years ago after some fool with a Turdota wacked the drivers rear quarter.
Paints a little thin in a couple spots. Fires right up and purrs like a kitten! He was asking for 20 grand last year.
He's in his 80's and doesn't use it much anymore. It's a huge car. Not many people have room for it.

 

"PS: the match striker portion of a book of matches was often used to clean a set of used points before setting the gap. The proper tool is a points file."

My dad was always a fan of one of my mom's fingernail emery boards.

 

I found the mechanical sparky thingy!....YAAAY! I think in my NON-expert opinion that these are F#%ked! Emery board, or new points time? The Echlin condensor seems to be looking ok tho.

 

Even really, really worn points will let a car run if they are clean on the surface and gapped properly, so unless you can find new ones easily I say file them lightly until the surface of each contact is shiny and put them back in set to the proper gap.

In my experience points keep a motor from running at all only when they fuse together, fall apart, or there is a piece of something stuck to one that keeps them from ever truly 100% breaking contact.

 

I found some that I think will work after one slight modification.
For any points newbies like me NAPA part number:2153 is a proper points file.

 

Those points are burnt and should be replaced. It is going to be challenging to get the motor going using the full throttle starter switch. Suggest you hook up a remote starter push ****on to the starter solenoid so you can crank the motot witbout full throttle. Cranking at full throttle might exacerbate a backfire, you might even have one sticky valve. Try cranking it with the throttle closed or almost closed and so you can geather the throttle as needed.

 

Yeah there is a chrome push ****on starter right next to the key switch. It looks so good on there that I stought that IT was the OE starter....had the car like a week before I found out about the "spair" one. Also the first time I got it to start
after I got it was with NO gas and it fired right up and purred like you had just parked it 10 minutes before with no throttle it does not attempt to fire with no pedal, I am thinking that when I get new points properly installed it will be another story, but first, where do I get points!? I found some for a tractor that I thought would work but no dice!

 

do you think you left the switch on and burned the points?

 

You're smart for asking the question, and brave for asking it here.

To put it simply, the coil takes that small voltage coming from the battery and turns it into the thousands of volts that the engine needs to fire.

The points opening and closing are where you get your timing.

 

Nope, been real careful about that, I don't even get out there and try to start it for more then about 60 seconds at a time, why? are those points THAT burnt? It is the first set that I have ever seen so I didn't know just how ****py they were. I am glad that they needed replaced, as now I don't feel bad about ripping them in two (I didn't know that they were one unit) and tearing the br*** collar that held them together. So the hunt is on fellas! WHO HAS SOME POINTS for a 1949 Packard, Deluxe Eight. with a 4.7ltr (288) flat-head inline 8 laying around? Or knows where to get 'em? When I find a set that does get me right I am going to go back and buy like 3 or 4 sets of them, condensers too!