Looking for some help to interpret this Camshaft I'm just trying to understand if what I have is Mild or Wild? I like how it sounds and performs - I am trying to better understand my complete set up and how all they pieces and parts "match up well" or not. Thanks for the insight. Here is the info I have: Comp Cams - Part 12-213-3 Grind Number CS 292 H 10 Intake Gross Valve lift .501 Duration at .006 Tappet lift 292 Valve timing at .006 Intake open 37 BTDC close 74 ABDC Exhaust open 77 BBDC close 34 ATDC These specs are for cam installed @106.0 Intake center line duration @.050 intake 244 exhaust 244 Lobe lift intake .3340 exhaust .3340 Lobe separation 110.0 Thanks Kevin
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...e_Code=CC&Product_Code=12-213-3&Category_Code= street / strip cam "very rough idle"
Cool - thanks for the reply and the link! It's true - as I'm sitting at a traffic light it sounds like it wants to stahl - but it doesn't!
Thanks! I just read that from the link you posted. What would the "bad symptoms" be if I'm running less than a 3,000? And what would "improve" if I bumped the convertor up to 3,000? It seems to idle, run and pull fine to me, but it sounds like it's not optimal Thanks Kevin
treb11 did a good job. It'll need plenty of breathing and revs, but hang on while you're hittin on it. Oh, and make it LOUD - OK???
"Bad symp....." Well...it would be sluggish from a stand still..! "Would it impro...." Apparently, per the manufacturers recomendations..! "Seems to idle and...." Sound obviously isn't gonna change, but it'll get moving much quicker with the right converter and a close to matching set of rear gears.. People need to understand their parts, before slapping a bunch of parts together...and turing the ign. key so they'll understand more about what and "why" they are doing the things they are doing. Mike
that's the cam that's in my coupe...it was in the motor when I got. sounds pretty impressive....definently needs 3000+ convertor. definently needs a decent gear....and definently pulls good on the top end. that being said...its not really a drivable combo for something like I drive...
Here is how it looks on a dyno, would be better with over 10-1 Quote from HRM A**** the flat tappets, the Xtreme 274H is the best overall cam with our basic combination. As for the 292H, it remains a great old-school street/strip cam, but you'd probably need to go up about a point in static compression to even have a prayer of living with it in a daily driver. Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0808_comp_cams/viewall.html#ixzz2TUztRFwQ
Really should post up what you are building, what all is in the motor, what you are trying to acomplish to get a GOOD answer.
You will need a decent gear (3.73 min probably) a good converter(3000)and some compression (9.5 at least) as already stated and probably a light car. Otherwise the neighbor kid on his bicycle will probably outrun you for the first half block or more.
I have that cam in my 55 with a 327 with 11to1 and 462 heads with 4:11 gears and a 5speed and I like it.
Thanks everyone for all the replies! I appreciate all the feedback and it sounds pretty consistent which is awesome! And I truly am trying to understand the combination of parts versus just slapping stuff together. I don't want to throw good money after bad. I don't think it's sluggish but I don't have much to compare it to - i'll have to pay more attention to that. The car (62 Chevy II - Light car) does have 10.5 to 1 compression - which seems to be in the ballpark, I will need to verify my convertor because I thought it was lower, more like 2500 and my gears are only highway 3:08 gears(10 bolt posi) - so changing those out to the suggested 3:73 may really help! The car also has Dart Iron Eagle heads 200 cc runners, 64 cc chambers, Performer RPM Air Gap intake, Holley Street Avenger carb, Dougs Tri Y Headers with 2.5" Flowmasters The only question I would have is - the car will fry the tires off with the highway gears, so if I go steeper won't it just burn them that much easier? Thanks again Kevin
Yes...lol. Kevin, it all depends on how you drive and what you want out of the car. So far, the discussion has been focused on matching the car to the cam. But you have an aternative...matching the cam to the car. You might consider buying a somewhat milder cam and keeping the lower-stall converter and the lower gear. That is, if you drive the car "sanely"...lol. If you wanna go nuts sometimes or put some slicks on it and go racing, a higher-stall converter and gear might be the ticket. And it always sounds lame on a hot rod forum, but gas mileage might be an issue too?
And... Sometimes, a big cam with an automatic trans can cause the need to keep the idle fairly high. And with a low-stall converter, it might be a little difficult to keep it restrained when you have the car stopped and in gear. Maybe you don't have that problem. If you install a milder cam, you might find that you actually have more power at lower rpms...and the end result will still be "frying the tires even easier"...lol.
Hey Henry J - I just watched your video - and yes my car sounds similar - I think its louder (if that means anything) but then again I'm only hearing your car over a video - I'm sure it's better in person!! Rickbop - yea, I'm with you - all great insight again! All of you guys have been very helpful. I was originally asking about the cam because that's what was in the motor I put in it recently - and just wanted to find out if its good, bad, decent, excellent... This is just a fun street car for me, not planning on racing it, also not worried about gas mileage either! LOL! But I would like to be respectable against any of these "modern" cars on top of looking better and sounding better!LOL!
Cool - thanks Rickybop -- I will pay attention and learn my car and determine what I like and what I want to deal with as well as being smart about what I do with it! Thanks Great - fry the tires even easier!LOL I need to figure out how to stuff more tire under there with out tubbing it shortening axles and all that stuff - i don't really like that look - especially since I'm not planning to race it
Ok, one more thought. Guys have been over-camming their engines for decades...just because they like the sound. We can talk about optimum power at lower or higher rpms, but if you like the sound, it fries the tires and the driveability is ok, then I guess you're good to go as is.
"This is just a fun street car for me, not planning on racing it, also not worried about gas mileage either! LOL! But I would like to be respectable against any of these "modern" cars on top of looking better and sounding better!" Sounds like you might as well go for broke then! The cam makes the car sound bad***ed. The whole package...the cam, the high-stall torque converter and high gear will make it sound even bad***ed-er, and it'll truly be bad***ed-er. And some good tires and maybe some traction bars will help get the power to the pavement. You don't have to have extremely large tires to get a grip...they make some pretty sticky tires that aren't so huge. But then there's always the outward appearance/persona aspect...and imo, big rear tires are a must for that. If want big wide tires, and you don't wanna tub it, (and I commend you for that) and you don't wanna jack it up to the sky, the only other thing I can think of is to radius the wheel-wells. And go nuts. Have fun. <!-- / message --> <!-- / message -->
Excellent! I think I'll just enjoy it the way it is this year and only sound and look bad***!LOL!! I knew the real answer was going to be "More Money" LOL!!! So, perhaps next year I can continue to improve the performance! Radius the fenders!?!! Sounds like I'm headed toward a G***er now!!LOL It's only Money - Right!! Thanks
Before comp cams made their cam help selection a free service. They had a program you purchased which was more elaborate. I visited a friend of mine who was a local engine builder here in Pensacola. He was quite reputable had a flow bench,engine dyno room and equipment to build 20-30K race engines. He had the program on his computer and it was a fill in the blank type program. It would ask you from the weight of the vehicle,size tire,transmission gearing,final gearing,carburetion,cylinder head configuration,etc,etc,etc. After you were through and applied all your particulars it would give you their selection. The camshaft for street purposes would always seem to be rather small. You could go back and make changes to any of the info. The only time the selection would significantly change is when you lowered the weight of the vehicle, then you would see the camshaft become more radical,but it still seemed to be smaller than you would think.
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