Cant Get WOT after TH350 Install

Hey Fellas,
I searched and got some ideas but didnt see exactly the same kind of scenario for what I have going on so I am gonna try to explaiin.

I had a TCI TH350 installed a few weeks ago while the car was running a little rough. I got it timed so that at idle it sounds and seems smooth. When I go to open it up it wont go to WOT. I tightened up the throttle cable to it is like a guitar string and still cant get it opened up.

So I thought it may be the kickdown cable restricting the travel- disconnected this morning and went for a spin- still have the problem.

What I am wondering is, if I adjusted the idle speed could that have any bearing on my cable travel? So that if I drop it back down a touch I could get WOT again?

Here is what I am running Edelbrock AFS 650 cfm. on an Edelbrock performer intake. The intake was also recently switched over from an iron 2bbl with an adapter. SBC with HEI

Also wondering if the old throttle lever (whatever its called) with the cable attached is not allowing for enough travel. How would I fix that?

 

Had the same problem on my 68 Camaro---had to adjust it at the firewall where the throttle mechanism came thru---worked good then. I dunno????

 

Did you have WOT before the 350 install?
On the new manifold ?

This ought to be extremely simple-
The throttle lever needs to move x amount of inches on an arc to achieve WOT.
Disconnect everything and Measure X " . If you can't get WOT with everything disconnected then you have another issue to locate.

The cable needs to pull whatever X measures also.
The pedal needs to move far enough to cause movement of X".
The cable needs to pull at the right location on the arc of the throttle arm.

The lockdown cable needs to play along and do the right thing in relation to the throttle arm.

 

Betcha your carb gasket is wrong, and it's keeping the ****erflys from opening all the way. Easy to check.

 

Just bend the gas pedal up .......

 

And for goodness's sake DO NOT force anything.

 

Have you checked your pedal travel?

 

just a thought have you checked the timing ?

 

I am going to second that you should verify that you have the correct carb to manifold gasket. Otherwise, that gasket could be preventing the ****erflies from opening as SPINOUT suggested earlier.

 

because timing affects carb linkage travel how?

 

What the hell has timing got to do with WOT?

 

Well if installing a th350 ****s up the linkage travel, then the timing could be off too. ??d)
The idler arms should be checked if it won't idle correctly.

 

Guys thanks for the great ideas here. I was really beginning to get fed up with the car but you guys got me motivated to try some other things. Here is where I am at now. The kickdown bracket slightly interfered with the throttle arm and I never noticed it before. I adjusted the kickdown bracket and got some more travel. Then I ground down the throttle arm and seemed to get even more travel. Drove it around the block and there was some hesitation but I can definitely feel a huge difference. SO... tomorrow I am gonna do the whole plugs and wires thing and see if that has anything to do with it for running like poo-poo for a couple days. At least worth a look.

Oh, may as well pull the carb too although I think it is the square gasket but also worth a look.

Thanks again guys- let you know how it pans out.

 

GEEZ LoL.. I would have thought the radiator cap would have been a better choice.

 

It sounded like the engine was running rough and causing the motor to not reach full rpm. If the motor would not reach full rpm it would feel like you were not actually at WOT when in fact you were.

Malibob- Are you saying it idles smooth but wont rev all the way up? How is the engine sounding at full WOT smooth just at a lower RPM than normal or rough?

 

Forget these guys talking about checking the timing, such fools. Everyone knows when you change a factory 2 barrel carb to an aftermarket 4 barrel you need to swap out for the bigger muffler bearings before it'll really rev up.

 

Seems to run ok unless I burry the pedal. Checked timing before all of this started BTW; while warm with the vacuum off and I was slightly advanced and it idles real nice, drives real nice unless I try to nail it but if I go into it smoothly it runs like a top.

 

With your help... I got it. Late last night or early this morning I guess, about 1:30 I woke up with a thought. My fuel mixture was running lean I thought. So down the steps I ran and into the garage. Adjusted a bit and this morning took her to work and BAM that was it. Got to warm the car up and make some final adjustments but that combination was the problem. Thanks again guys- I figured it was something dumb I was overlooking, turns out it was a few dumb things combined. But I think I am squared up now.

 

Muffler bearing musta been O.K. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I have Got to admit that I'm a little lost here on this one.

 

Why, your advice is the one that got me thinking something was interfering with the throttle arm. Apparently when I installed the Kickdown bracket on the manifold it caught the throttle arm and stopped it from traveling forward enough to allow for full pull. Problem was that when I installed it I was also in the process of adjusting idle speed and someone ran my air fuel mixture in all the way so that also compounded the problem. When I saw my cable didnt have enough tension I didnt think twice that the bracket interfered and thought adjusting my idle speed was the culpret so just tightened that up. Should have slowed down and realized the real problem was the bracket. Moral is DONT RUSH!

 

And by the way, muffler bearings were ok, headlamp fluid was low so I topped that off. Maybe that was the fix.