car shuts off at operating temp

this is for my 56 olds, stock engine, adapted 700 r4. I got the rochester 4gc carb rebuilt, new electric fuel pump, new 70 el camino gas tank.

Heres what happens, the car start right up , idles perfect, i can drive it around and it feels like everything is fine. Once the temp gets a little hot (165 ish) it starts bogging/popping a little , acts like it isnt getting gas and shuts off. then i have to wait for the temp to go down and it will start right up again and be fine till it gets hot again.

Heres what ive done- took the entire car to the carb place, they opened the carb said everything is fine. after shutting off i disconnected the fuel line from carb to see if i was getting fuel, and yes fuel is flowing. frusteration is kicking in , i am tempted to just get an edelbrock 600 and hope that is the problem.
anyone have this prob before?
how can i fix this?

 

what type ignition?

 

oh , previous owner took out points and installed electric, on stock dizzy

 

Sounds like it may be the choke not opening all the way. Check the linkages?

 

when it shuts off, the choke valve is straight up and down, open as far as it goes. is this normal? or should it be closed a little more?

 

Sounds like the module/trigger in the converted didtributor. Mallory really bad about this, as I am going thru the same thing (again) with my Mallory electronic distributor.

 

if the carb is said to be ok, and you say it looks as if its getting fuel even at the time of it shutting down, i would suspect the ignition system too

 

Maybe vapor lock?

 

Put the points back in and try it.
Gas tank vented?

 

when it does not start, pul the coil wire and hold it 1 inch away from the engine..should get a bright blue strong spark

 

If I had to guess, I'd say it's ignition related, not carb related. I'm leaning towards the coil. What kind of coil are you running? Can you move it to a cooler location under the hood? How long has it been doing this? Have you recently changed anything ignition related that might have brought this on? Have you checked all of the wiring to the coil/distributor? Can you get another coil/distributor to swap out on a temporary basis?

 

At operating temp that's where it should be.

 

Sounds like everyone is leaning towards ignition. I might have an extra coil laying around, i will switch it and see what happens. the existing is a accell brand coil (new) . i will try MOTER 's test also .

moparjack44 - if it isnt the coil i will have to change out the module either for a new one, or back to points. im glad you can relate,

how is vapor lock created? and how can i prevent it?

thanks for all your help fellas, i hope i can pinpoint the prob and finally drive my damn car

 

also when you do the test to see if the spark is ok...if it has spark but is weak..you have a bad coil or coil wire. If no spark start looking for failed part inside the distributor

 

I've never had vapor lock but it is when heat causes your fuel to vaporize in the line, before getting to the carburetor.

 

You forgot to disconnect the thermostatic neutralizer?

Elec. pump should eliminate vapor lock...

Sounds a lot like low coil input voltage, but why temp related? Is anything else running off the + wire to the coil? Does it still have the resistor or resistance wire from the old points ign?

Try wiring the coil + terminal straight to the battery (you will have to DISCONNECT it to shut the engine off) and see what happens as it warms up.

 

wouldnt it be a trip if the ignition wire and the temp sender were wired as a switch?..when it got to temp it shut off the feed to the coil?

fat chance of that..but what a trip eh?

 

Might be a bad fuel pump. Or a gas tank venting problem. Is the tank vented to allow air to get in?

 

Wow, VR, what a way to f**k with somebody, huh...?

 

hey dumber shit has happened

 

No, I meant that the way I wrote it...

 

I had a fully electronic Mallory Distributor on my 51 panhead and it was doing the same thing, it was just shut off, turning the key off and on would re-set it. I went back to points and not a problem. I am sending the ignition back, I heard its common.

 

After it is hot and won't start try priming the engine with starting fluid. If it starts and runs untill the prime burns off then it is fuel and not ignition. If it still dosn't start then you should be looking at spark. I would also recommend replacing the electronic conversion with points and you will be walking alot less in the long run. Vopar lock comes in mostly when your fuel lines run too close to a heat source like exhaust pipes. That problem will be verified with the prime test. Good luck.

 

A friend of mine had the same thing happen on his wifes Metropolitan. Seemed like a fuel problem, so after rebuilding the carb, putting a heat isolator under the carb, wrapping the fuel line where it was close to the header, washing the tank out, it turned out to be a faulty coil breaking down when the car got hot. let it cool down and it would fire right up again.

 

Well- sounds like my other car w/ the former electric fuel pump.
Next time it happens- go put your hand on the fuel pump. I'll bet it's hotter than shit.
Pump gets hot- shuts off on thermal overload. Pump cools down & works again.
Not many electrics worth a fuck anymore & unless it's submerged in a sea of gas in your tank- they run hot. Most are not rated for continuous operation- no matter what they say.
Where's the pump? Brand of pump? How's it plumbed? What size line? Do you have a filter between tank & pump? Is pump at or below bottom of tank? Is tank vented?

 

I ran into the same problem. Borrow a coil and see if it still does it. They can get hair line cracks in the windings that open up when the coil heats up. All's fine when it cools back down again.

 

Since he has a new electric fuel pump unless the fuel lines were rerouted VERY close to the exhaust there should be NO worries about vapor locking at only low temps like that. Another vote for bad coil.

 

With the electronic conversion, if not running an electric control box (re MSD), you must run a ballast recistor.

Jack

 

My vote is for the coil getting hot and breaking down. Seen it happen many times. Change the coil and if it still occurs then put points back in the dizzy.

 

these pic attachments show how its currently wired. i am switching the coil tonight and see what happens.
do i need a resistor or not? and how would i wire that? i wired the car with a rebel kit

coil is an accell