Any clue where i can get just the top gasket, without having to spend a fortune on a complete rebuild kit??? Ive got at least 5 kits here, but no more top gaskets... and the one currently on it leaks like a collandar... ive tried NAPA, and all the local parts houses... anywhere online? Should i give up on this carb and put an AFB on it??? AFB parts are way easy to find... Next question: what pressure do the WCFB's like to run at? Im ditching the mechanical pump in favor of an electric (long story), with a regulator. 7psi sounds right, but not sure Oh, it's all on a warmed-over mopar 383...
NAPA does sell sheets of gasket material, I'm not sure if the stuff is good for gasoline contact, but they would know if you asked them. Have you ever tapped out a gasket before? You are supposed to set the material over one of the pieces and use a ball peen hammer and tap it over the corners, then peel the new gasket out. It might not be a good idea to do this on your carb, and you might not have the room to do it right. Check with NAPA and see if the stuff will stand up to the gasoline.
You might also be able to find a carb rebuilding shop and ask them if they have a couple of these gaskets lying around. You might get out of it for a few bucks that way.
What Deo said, The local carb shop down here has a wall full of gaskets. He sells individuals or the kit. If youre not in a hurry send me the info and your old gasket and I can pick up a couple for you.. TZ
The Carter series of carbs are designed to operate at 5 PSI at the needle and seat. If you purchase a Carter #P4070 fuel pump, it has a built in pressure regulator set at 5 PSI. I can't help you out on the gasket.
DUH... carb shop... now why didnt i think of that/ There's a ton of them around here, too... Ill try that today... maybe 7psi was for Holleys... i forget. I'll set it to 5 for the carter, and see how it does... I thought of the gasket material... NAPA dudes said it was fine for gas contact, but it is one hell of an intricate gasket... so many little shapes, holes, and ****... some of which ARE the air p***ages... figured it was just far too likely that i'd mess it all up... Thanks guys...
My old manuals say 6 max was the spec for the Carter and early Holleys but that may be pump pressure the way it's worded. Stock Y block Ford pumps ran 3-5 for both 4 bbls. The Carter pump at 5 is the way to go.
I'm running a Holley low pressure regulator set at 3 psi on my Cad with 2 WCFB's. Works great, no flooding symptoms and no running out of gas under load. 3-5 psi is where you want the pressure at. warbird
I would suspect you are overriding the needle and seat -maybe 3-4psi would be more in line for that old WCFBcarb. they are onlt 400ish on CFM and are kinda miserly on jetting TOO,so wont require the 5 -7 that a newer carter AFB[625CFM] woud require[and those Carters take less than an Edlebrock]
got a top gasket from the local carb shop ($3)... put it in the carb... no more leaks. Cool! I thought the CFM WAS like 625 on this, as on the AFB's... the barrel/venturi size is identical to that of a friend's edelbrock. Maybe i dont have a WCFB, then... it feeds the big block just fine... Anyone know the numbers of WCFB's and AFB's??? i know the number is stamped on the lower side of the base... actually- it's all aluminum... were WCFB's aluminum??? The only carbs i have a lot of experience with are the newer carter afb comp. series, and holleys...
WCFB means "White Cast Four Barrel", no aluminum used on them. You've more than likely got an AFB. Does it have a tag attached under one of the bowl screw? If so, that's the easiest way of determining what it is and what it came off of. warbird
I have a book that says it stands for Will Carter Four Barrell. Sounds like a pompous name to me, so I hope you are right.
no tag on the carb (looks like it's been apart about 100 times)... but it is indeed aluminum. So... an AFB i suppose it is. The top gasket dosent match up to any of my AFB kits, though... either case, it's working well now... gonna rejet and lean it out a tad with the metering rods, though... way too rich... Thanks, everyone, for you help!
I wouldn't rejet AND change the metering rods. Pick one and do it, that way if it gets all out of whack, you can always go back to where you started or to the last known point that it worked well.
although i agree about NOT doing both at the same time, kinda had to rejet and change the metering rods at the same time... they were WAAAAAAY off. the mixture is feeling perfect now... still think im gonna put a newer AFB on it, though... this one looks like it's been beaten with a ball-peen hammer and used as a salt-water aquarium decoration for about 10 years. I had to gl*** bead all the rust off of the linkages and springs just to get it working... oh, it's happily running at 4psi of fuel pressure now... the mechanical pump was putting out like 9psi (solved some SERIOUS f'ing fuel overflow problems). Thanks again...
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