Technical Case hardened slotted nut source

You can try something like this, but like others have said, you really should replace the axle when you have time.

https://thirdgenauto.com/product/1928-48-ford-rear-axle-special-clamping-nut-for-worn-threads/

 

What’s the key looking item about?

 

Its not ignorance when you are unaware of something and ask a question in order to learn something.
Now, when I work on an electrical system..........thats when ignorance is on full display.

Basically there are several ways to make a thread form on something. May be some newer ones that I'm not familiar with, but basically here is what is done.

The crudest method is with a tap or die. In your case an external thread on a shaft would use a die. For many common applications this provides a satisfactory thread. While there are more precise ways to "form" a thread, you also have to be aware of what its going to be used with....

In your case it's going to be used in conjunction with a "Nut". So the consideration is also what the mating part (the Nut) provides in terms of thread engagement. The Grade of the nut like a Grade 5 or a Grade 8 tells you something about the quality of the nut, but its also important to consider the length of the nut.
By that I mean that the quality of the metal the nut is made from is not the only thing thats important. If the nut has more threads per inch it will hold better, and if the nut has a longer body it will also have more total threads........hence less likely to strip. (One exception to this is installing a bolt in an aluminum part. There coarse threads are usually preferred.)

OK, thats your basic everyday combination.

Another way to make a thread is by chasing (turning) it on a lathe. Again, this requires pressure by a cutting tool that is moving lengthwise alon the shaft or bolt. It creates a chip. You can make a decent thread with a lathe and it allows making non standard sizes for special applications.




A similar way is to "chase" a thread using a cylindrical grinder. It turns the part just like a lathe does but uses a grinding wheel with a "V" shaped edge on the wheel. This produces very smooth and precise threads and is useful with harder metals . If you have a micrometer, screw the thimble out and look at the threads.

https://www.google.com/search?sca_e...ate=ive&vld=cid:cba5a849,vid:6dWJlYXdDFs,st:0


Then there is "rolling" a thread. Its done by passing a shaft between some thread rollers similar to the wheels on a knurling tool or some helical gears (3) arrainged in a circle around the shaft. This also produces a very uniform and strong thread because there is no cutting, only pressure from the rollers pushing the metal into a thread shape.

https://www.google.com/search?q=thr...ate=ive&vld=cid:492efd40,vid:7uD3XDcC7Qs,st:0

So, I hope that you learned something that helps you in the future.

 

No idea. I just remember seeing this in the 3rd Gen catalog. Some how that must slide it to lock the outer nut to apply force to it. I'd****ume it comes with directions.

 

Maybe put some weld on the nut to shrink it some?

 

I think this is the best possible solution if you're insistent on using that axle! Crank that nut on, say a prayer, get out the heavy sparkler and give it hell... One last time!

3blap.

 

Well gents I think I got it licked. A buddy loaned me his thread file to clean up the threads and he gave a pair of new OEM axle nuts. Man these nuts are heavy duty. They are 1/4” wider than the repro ones I got from Third Gen Auto. In fact they cover all the exposed threads on end of the axle. I feel much more confident that hub will stay put.

pics show threads after filing them, old nut, new nut

 

So the actual suspect (yes axle threads are worn a bit) was the “nut”.

 

I think the use of a longer nut is definitely an improvement even though the threads near the end are somewhat imperfect. Most of the holding power is nearer the base or center of the thread, so having a few extra turns to create contact is mobetter.......

 

I'm glad you're confident with that repair... because I wouldn't be.

3blap.

 

It will either hold the correct torque when tightened..........or it won't. Then he will need to drive it and check it a few times. Most of the power applied is 90 degrees from the direction the nut applies holding pressure and the thread is capable of a lot more holding strength than whats actually needed. Yes, a new axle would be the best solution, but I think it may work as long as it can be torqued properly.