75%-25% rubbing alcohol-water (water helps with the cost of the alcohol ) the mixture still wont bubble . Shake it, let it sit a few seconds, then fill your burette. Been CC (porting) cylinder heads for about 50 years. This combination works fine, for me anyway. If you have a hard time seeing little/fine things, use a little coloring, but I don't normally use any. I did WAY back, but found that it really wasn't necessary. Always put the "fill" port the the highest position, is the fill port is the last to fill. It's a little time consuming, but not difficult. Mike
I’ve used and been told by more then 1 engine builder windshield washer fluid is what to use. Canadian Club or “CC” is incredible fluid , but should be used internally, After you have completed what ever work you need to do !
I should have put a pic. Crosley block so dead end cylinder. With valves in I had planned to make a dummy piston with o rings, put in cylinder to .040 from quench area and fill through spark plug hole. Now I am thinking why make the dummy piston; with valves and spark plug in level block and fill to .040 over quench area. I am wondering how well the flow [there is word for it but I can't find it] will be so I can get [measure/see/] the fill to .040.
I assume the quench area you are measuring from is the cast 'smile' area opposite the spark plug? The valve heads are higher in the chamber when installed than this part, right? You can space a clear bit of plastic that is like a washer so it's tight in the bore, with a hole in the center. Use a small bit of something on a wire to space the washer the 0.040 desired, and seal it with grease or RTV. Pull out the spacer (or measure it's volume and do math), then do the usual measured pour into the chamber, stopping when the underside of the washer is showing level fill. Hopefully someone who has dealt with this often has a better idea.
I’d set the block so it is level and draw a line around the cylinder at the piston top level, put the valves and spark plug in and then fill to the line with what ever fluid you’re using (I like paraffin as I’ve always got some and doesn’t contain any water). I think meniscus is the word you’re looking for.
Some info https://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/1946-49-crosley-cobra-the-sheet-metal-engine/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/crosley-ohc-engine.561748/ Seems there was and is some interest in these, I'd go diving into specific info on them for tips on how to 'blueprint' them. Judging from the pics in the first link, just the size of the bores makes this task more fiddly than normal. You could probably CC the entire cylinder and do math to find the volume you want.
You are close, valves are lower/farther down the cylinder. I have since pic taken machined all the "smile [quench"] to the same depth and the valve seats/spot facing. Good idea with washer, I can rest on quench area and fill to bottom and compute the rest, .o40 piston clearance. Thank you.. And you are right, way more "fiddly" with cylinder being dead end and only 2.5 bore.
Been at those sights and many others when I was a kid and many others since the internet over the last 20 years. The Gurus can't answer more than one question at a time, reading comprehension is not their strong suit. Age is a factor [me too] and a lot have passed away. I have a book by a fellow that raced boats and he showed the engine mods he did, told of CC'ing but didn't say how he did it. I like the washer idea as I machined the quench areas, spot faces, valve seats to same dimension from block flange after pic was taken. A Plexiglas disc with hole in it should work. Rest on quench and fill to bottom of hole, compute the .040 quench clearance. I am using a Homelite crank for 1/4" more stroke and compression, whopping 9 cu in increase. Thank you.
I might be a little late on this post but when I CC'd a set of Hemi heads last year I used menthol rubbing alcohol. The green color worked well and it was cheap at the drug store.
I believe viscosity is the word you're looking for. And when CC'ing cylinder volume at top and bottom of the stroke I've never used any liquid that would cause rust to form. I've just used thin oil.
When I did my 401 Buick I did things differently because of the dome piston. Sealed the rings with grease, assembled it all, and rolled the engine to put the sparkplug hole at the top. Used AT fluid to cc. Sucked it back out after. Remaining fluid burned off at start-up.
Please define your use of the word paraffin. Our side of the pond, it's a solid whitish material that's used to make candles. Over on your side I'm guessing mineral spirits or kerosene. 2 people speaking a common language and not understanding each other...lol!
The solid stuff is paraffin wax over here. Paraffin (paraffin oil) is kerosene (the stuff you use in lamps).
And don't get me going on our regional wording. Up here in the northeast, we call it soda, as a generic term for carbonated beverages. When I moved to the Midwest, it was pop, you know, the guy who was my father! A paper bag is a sack. And I could go on forever. At least you have a basic vocabulary that sort of matches. Pitty the non-English speaking person who is listening to us speak...
There’s loads of regional stuff here too. We do say pop for a fizzy drink where I grew up in the Black Country. There this’d be a normal sentence but the rest of the country wouldn’t understand it “Bostin night but your Mrs gorra right cob on she was proper yampy”. Don’t get us Brits started on what you call a small round bread thing; bun, cob (not the cob above or a house made from clay and straw), roll, bap, barm, batch.
This discussion calls for a thread all its own. Words from our common language that we haven't got a clue regarding the meaning.
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