I don,t believe this is a issue but will ask anyway Don't like doing anything twice. Sometimes one is not suppose to run certain wires touching or parallel with one another, like certain plug wires etc. I want o run a positive and neg wire #1 ga. insulated, that will be touching about 12 ft on the frame of my car Can this be a issue, magnetic field etc very ignorant when it comes to wiring... Gene In Mn currently 12 below with wind & 10 inches of snow on the ground, nope not kidding... You guys down South are laughing at us right now I,ll bet..
That won't be a problem. High voltage circuits (in the KV range) and sensitive electronics are where you can have issues. I will say if this is for a rear-mount battery a #1 probably will be a more than bit light in terms of current draw and voltage drop.
Shouldn’t be a problem at low voltage, like 12 volts, if the insulation is good, as it probably is! And , NO WE ARE NOT LAUGHING DOWN HERE, YOUR WEATHER IS HERE ON MY YARD, DRUNK! COME GET IT, PLEASE! It was -1 degree, last night! Bones
The only wires I care about keeping away from others are the signal leads for audio amplifiers. Even then, just 6-inches away.
Not a problem on battery cables. However, like Crazy Steve said, -1 is a bit light for 12 foot of cable. I ***ume it will run the starter. -0 or -00 would be more appropriate.
The best answer I can give is that standard Marine/ Boat wire is duplex wire where the "hot wire" and "ground wire" run in the same insulation next to each accssory and item that needs DC power. No issues there from "interference" at all. The silver look on the one here for show and tell isn't aluminum, the wire is tinned as an anti corrosion effort.
One more thing needs to be mentioned. You're better off to ground to the ch***is/body structure close to the battery then 'tap' it with short cable runs to where you need grounding rather than running both cables. While steel is a poorer conductor compared to copper, the multiple times of 'conductor' cross-sectional area compared to a single wire will actually give a lower-resistance path as long as the connections are solid metal-to-metal (no coatings).
Yes! I have the privilege of living in the great state of Oklahoma! The rest of you guys have to settle for the other 49! Bones
Routing insulated positive and negative battery cables side by side in jumper cables doesn't seem to cause any problems. Unless you connect them to the wrong battery terminals . . .
Crossing certain plug wires usually is/was an issue that was often dependent on the qualty of the wures you used or how old said wires were. Those transparent insulation plug wires that some guys still think are "old school" look like *****le lights when you open the hood with the engine running at night unless they are well separated from each other and any route to ground that a spark can jump. They are just as good for a laugh at a rod trot today as they were at the local hot rod hangout in the 50's or 60's.
The biggest issue with how you route battery cables, is to make damn sure they won't get the insulation rubbed off, and short.
As mentioned, the negative cable coming from a trunk mounted battery goes directly to the frame and only needs to be a few feet long at most.
Can the positive battery cable be run from the trunk, through the interior along the transmission tunnel, rather than outside of the car on the inside of the frame rail? What is the best practice?
I never run a negative battery cable full length, and simply ground it well to the frame, and then off the frame to the block up front. I always run a 2/0 positive cable, and attach it with insulated clamps at numerous places to secure it. I also put rubber hose over the positive cable anywhere it looks like it might come in contact with anything that's not perfectly smooth. I just split the hose and slip it over the cable, then tie it with wire ties to hold it on.
I have always run the positive cable on the outside of the frame just to stay away from the exhaust and driveline. There's no reason why you can't run it inside as long as you make sure it is not going to be near anything that will cut thru the insulation, and use a grommet when you go through the floor.
If you look at those fancy high end Mil-Spec motorsport harnesses, it doesn't seem to be a problem. Actually they run the most sensitive sensor wires as a core. I also always wondered about the ignition wires. Some say they should not touch, others (like on some flatheads) run all the ignition cables in a metal tube (even from factory).
As fit the ignition wires, it is all about the insulation! That is why golks say don’t run them along side each other. It’s no problem , as seen on the Flathead, if the insulation is adequate! Old or broken insulation, you will run into trouble! Bones
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