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changing a kingpin

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 48dreams, Apr 23, 2010.

  1. 48dreams
    Joined: Sep 26, 2005
    Posts: 61

    48dreams
    Member
    from Queens

    can anyone help me find out how to take off and replace a kingpin on a 1948 chevy fleetline please help pics if any
     
  2. rainh8r
    Joined: Dec 30, 2005
    Posts: 792

    rainh8r
    Member

    Pretty straight forward job as I recall. Pull off the wheel and then the brake drum, then the backing plate and brakes. I tied the plate/brakes out of the way without removing the front brake hoses so I didn't have to open the hydraulic system. You can pull the plate & brakes off together if you're careful. Remove the lock pin from the spindle, which has a nut on one side and is also a steering stop. That drives out and lets the kingpin move. Chev's have floating pins and bushings, which means you shouldn't have to press anything in or out unless there is rust. If it's tough to move, remember to drive the kingpin down, not up, as it will hit the upper A-arm before it's clear of the spindle. Once the pin is out, push/drive the bushings out (upper and lower). Push new ones in, push in new pin, and put it all back together. Remember that the spindle holds the spring in place, so if you decide you need to remove the spindle, (if something isn't right and needs help) be careful! That coil spring can kill you. The last one I did was lots of years ago, but it went OK. Remember that these cars are 60+ years old and sometimes things don't work as easily as they should, and that the kingpin lock bolt has to come all the way out before the pin will move. Good luck.
     
  3. 48dreams
    Joined: Sep 26, 2005
    Posts: 61

    48dreams
    Member
    from Queens

    Thanks for the info will update if all goes well
     
  4. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Yeah, watch those springs!
     

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  5. MarkKoch
    Joined: Jan 16, 2010
    Posts: 294

    MarkKoch
    Member
    from Maryland

    I`m going through the same thing on my 48 stylemaster,I took some 1/8 in bradded wire and wrapped around tight to the bottom of the spring to the bottom control arm.I put a scizzer jack under the control arm and worked back and forth from raising the car to lowering the control arm-slowly-they came rite out.I read on here that some of the king pin kits can come with over sized bushings - the spot where they go may need to be honed ,Fill you knee action shocks while your in there mine were half empy....I took the king pins to a machine shop.some guys on here said it could be a tough job,I didnt want to risk f`n them up.I also found out my bottom pivot pins were in need of replacing as well.Im just guessing yours are the same as mine if not sorry for the post
     
  6. 55 dude
    Joined: Jun 19, 2006
    Posts: 9,357

    55 dude
    Member

    damm!:eek: that is some funny **** dude.:D
     
  7. wictor
    Joined: Oct 15, 2017
    Posts: 4

    wictor

    after the installation of the king pin there is no play "up or down" and the spindle turns freely. When the spindle is straight there is no play either up/down nor back-to-forward. But when I turn the spindle to the sides (far out to the left or right) there is a play in the horisontal movement (back-to-forward). What can that be?
    Can it be the attachment to the tie-rod? Or something else?
     
  8. wictor
    Joined: Oct 15, 2017
    Posts: 4

    wictor

    I added a video of it as well...might help to understand it better...
     

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