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Technical Changing engine block studs / Flathead

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by sliced56, Jun 30, 2014.

  1. sliced56
    Joined: Aug 28, 2011
    Posts: 11

    sliced56
    Member

    Scored another 39 Mercury flathead in good condition from a restorer, hasn't done many miles with good compression etc, decided to dress it up a bit so I got a new pair of Edelbrock heads and a set of longer block studs. What's the best/safest way to change the studs over without breaking any off ? I know its not a big question but I'd rather ask to see if there is an easy way before I take the old heads off.

    Thanks in advance
    Mick
     
  2. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    just removed the studs from a 26 Dodge bros. heat the stud with a torch red hot as close to the block as you dare. Give the stud a hit with a hammer while it is hot. pretty hard but not enough to break anything. let it cool. Using a cam lock tool that grabs the stud right at the block surface, back it out. I know some people say to melt wax on the stud. i don't think that helps but it won't hurt.
     
  3. flthd31
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 600

    flthd31
    Member

  4. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,663

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    I got mine out like RichFox says above and did melt the wax in but also don't know for sure that it helped. The concentric stud extractor looks like a great idea, the regular offset ones like I used could potentially put side loads on the stud.
     
  5. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Concentric collett grip type stud pullers are the best tool for the job...maybe not helpful to you, but a Snap-on kit that covers about every stud thread on a flathead is around $200 US.
    These things thread onto the top threads, then tighten the thread grip part with a collett that gives them a death grip and centered turning.
     
  6. As recommended previously a little heat goes a long way. Not red hot from a rose bud, but a little MAP gas in one hand and turning force in the direction of removal. It will break lose when it is ready.
     
  7. flthd31
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 600

    flthd31
    Member

    That concentric type I posted above is 20 bucks and works extremely well. Similar "death grip" but it does ruin the stud. It's not threaded on, it bites in with teeth. Surprising well made for the price.
     
  8. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,336

    alchemy
    Member

    Flthd31, where is that tool available?
     
  9. flthd31
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 600

    flthd31
    Member

  10. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    I have removed a lot of old studs with my cam lock tool. I like it because it grabs the stud as close to the base as possible. It's true that if you use poor technique you could stress the stud in a direction you don't want to. the answer to that is don't do it. I use an extension and keep the breaker bar over the stud at least when starting out.
     

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