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Technical Charging Issue

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by OLD REK, May 21, 2025.

  1. OLD REK
    Joined: Mar 6, 2014
    Posts: 363

    OLD REK
    Member

    Gentlemen,
    I've wired many a rod n' custom over the years but have never run into this before. I purchased a new 1-wire alternator at last years Back to the 50's and installed it over the winter. I now find that I must run my mouse motor over 2500 rpm before the unit kicks in to charge. Once it starts charging there is no problem, it will charge over the entire rpm range, I just have to remember to rev it up after I start it to get the alternator to kick in.
    Is this common with 1-wire alts, or is there some other way to get it to charge?
    I appreciate any and all advice.
    Thanks,
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,275

    alchemy
    Member

    I thought all 1-wires needed to be “excited” to start charging. No idear what the RPM would be though.
     
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  3. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,546

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is how a one wire in a hot rod or custom normally works, Start the car and gun the engine once or twice to get it to energize. I'd say that half the hot rodders that have them have always been in the habit of gunning the engine soon after it started and never knew the difference.
     
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  4. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 10,472

    Rickybop
    Member

    I didn't know that.
    Thanks, HAMB.
     
  5. One more bit of relevant info;
    When I fire up my car, the voltmeter reads about 11.5 volts, indicating the alternator isn't charging the battery yet.

    After I rev the engine to about 2000 rpm, the exciter takes effect, the alternator starts charging, and the voltmeter jumps to 14 volts, where it stays as long as the engine is running.

    Hope this helps.:)
     
    INVISIBLEKID likes this.
  6. Kevin Ardinger
    Joined: Aug 31, 2019
    Posts: 1,012

    Kevin Ardinger
    Member

    Mine will kind of do that after long cranking. Like when the car has sat for a while and the carbs are dry. I think the battery state of charge get low when cranking for a while ( like until it has oil pressure). Usually by then the carbs are full and the it starts. Takes a few minutes before it starts charging. If you turn on an extra load, such as an electric fan or anything, It may take longer. Turn off all electric loads once it started.
     
  7. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,092

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have one wire alternators on all my cars currently, I have never had to rev them up to excite the alternators, but different brands could require it. If this fixes the issue it was an easy one. My air cooled dune buggy wouldn't charge until I added a light bulb (positive to ignition) and grounded to the alternators field input. The light stays lit until you hit around 1500 RPM, at that point the field turns off the ground (light goes out) and the charging begins (you can actually hear and feel it start to charge). Probably many different variations of the theme out there.
     
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  8. RDR
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,545

    RDR
    Member

    electrickery..
    the exciter light possibility or an exciter resister can cure the need for revving
     
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  9. RockyMtnWay
    Joined: Jan 6, 2015
    Posts: 569

    RockyMtnWay
    Member

    That’s exactly how self-exciting alternators work.
    note: Trigger rpm’s will very depending on what size pulleys you are using.
     
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  10. OLD REK
    Joined: Mar 6, 2014
    Posts: 363

    OLD REK
    Member

    So it sounds like a common thing...exactly like "Just Gary"
    I could wire in the field light I suppose, and see what happens. I even tried looping in the heavy red from the two wire clip onto the main post, even put a ground from the alt case to the car frame, but the issue persists.
    Back to the shop...
     
    Just Gary likes this.

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