Well I finally have a reason to make a post, instead of just lurking around. Somehow I convinced myself (late night, cold) that it would be ok to notch the frame for header clearance. I don't have the experience or confidence to build my own so I bought block huggers. Luckily I'm smart enough to realize I did something stupid. I want to hear how you guys would strengthen this up. I'm not sure how to box it in because of the irregular shape of the cuts. I have an arc welder, plenty of steel plate and general shop tools to work with. No torch. Thanks - Follow this link for pics/further description. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?journalid=43515&action=view
ouch... cold hard truth... if it were me, I would start over, cut the whole mess out and replace the hacked part of the rails, remount the steering box in a way that did not compromise the frame and either alter the headers or fab/buy new ones that also don't weaken the rails.
I'm no ch***is guy but I gotta agree with Paul. I would start over. I'd rather whack up set of headers than the ch***is and that sterring unit needs to be redone other wise it looks like you are doing a great job.
I have to agree with Paul, ditch the block huggers, fix the frame (and that steering box area) and find yourself some fenderwell headers that will go over the top of the frame or go back to the factory manifolds. While you're at it I would box that frame. Big Block torque could twist that frame like a gumby doll. Good Luck.
Thanks guys. The gear box notch has been there a long time so at least I know it's solid. I'm not too fond of the block huggers, but I have little money and few resources left, minus the arc welder and some plate, so making the current situation safe and solid (albiet ugly) would be desireable. It would at least keep the project moving right now. When I have the money to pay for built headers or more equipment I can cut all this **** off, gearbox notch and all, and box the whole front end in and make it right. Till then, any ideas on making this work? I was thinking welding sections of plate to match the curves of the cuts. Esentially box it in following the cuts, and then box in the unaltered areas behind the cuts. Thougths?
The only way I have seen blockhuggers on a big block in a 47-53 gm truck is to mount the motor relatively high. Run a cast iron manifold and ebay the headers or send them back. Sanderson makes a cast manifold that flows pretty decent but if your motor is mild I would think late model truck manifolds would be cheap and plentiful. Good luck!
Can you raise the engine? Wouldn't that give you enough room for the headers? Basicly the tubes would be above the rail and just the exhaust pipe would p*** the frame. Can't understand why the engine needs to be that low...especially in a big truck with a long wheelbase! DON'T cobble up the repair of the frame. Cut out the mess you made to get a rectangular repair, use metal of the same thickness and then box the inside. Be VERY wary of warpage sneaking up on you. Do the work with the engine out to lessen the weight and support the frame to lessen sagging forces. I Don't like the steering box mods but you say it's fine so... EDIT..."Don't lift" beat me to it while I was checking out the pics! LoL
I think the reason it was hung so low is because the floor of the cab just about rides on top of the trans. If the engine comes up the front of the trans does too, as will the distributor. Bringing it up would require a lot of firewall/floor alteration. Just moving the motor forward would avoid all that work, but squeezing a fan in behind the radiator would probably be a problem. Not to mention I'd need a new driveshaft.
I read a little bit on your build,it seems to me you are having a time of it. The fact that you traded a 350 for this motor and then put a lot of money and time in it does not seem the best choice to me. BUT it is yours and you have to live with your decision. First let me say I agree with the starting over. But if you insist on keeping everything you have there might be enough room to truss it.On the bottom of the frame run a heavy strap as far as you can to the front and rear along the frame rail . Space it down about an inch or so with more material and then bend the ends up to the frame and weld them. Crude but will work. by the way I ***ume the broken tap was in a head bolt hole,if so remember on big block chebbys one bolt hole has interference and the tab will break if run in too far.
ok, OKSoda, here is a crude sketch of a way you could do what you describe, keeping the same steering box and headers and use the arc welder and plate steel you have.. 3/16 would be a good thickness.. cut the top and bottom flanges on the stock frame removing a section of the sides as well fab new top and bottom plates and inner and outer plates and build a cleaner and longer boxed section similar to what grandpa did.
This is your FRAME man!!! It's the foundation of the entire vehicle. You made a boo-boo...so **** it up and fix it right. Your going thru the truck completely. Your Dad was most likely trying to get it done as fast as possible, so cut a few corners to get back on the road. Thats not the issue now. Ditch the headers and run a set of stock manifolds that will fit a little easier(as "Don't lift" suggested) or raise the engine to get clearance. True...raising the engine might mean cutting on your floors...but I'd rather see some cobbled up floorboards than a cobbled up frame. Floors won't kill you or someone else. You can rivet or screw the floors back in and seal them with some seam sealer. Welding is optional. Carpet will cover them anyway. That frame will make you look like an idiot even if it doesn't collapse! Stop cutting corners and looking for the easy way out. If you can't afford to do the stuff right, work on some other part of the vehicle until you can. Screw-ups like that tend to snowball if you try to work around them, and the whole build will turn to ****. That trucks WAY too cool and family based to be screwing around with.
Paul's sketch seems like the best option if you still want to use the huggers. Otherwise put the frame back to normal and run a set of zoomies.
Hey, I never followed up on this, but I did eventually form cut plate and filled back in all the meat I cut out. Thanks for the sobering advice. Without it I would have probably somehow justified doing it wrong. I thought Pauls sketch was fantastic and almost went that route. But it would have made more work later down the road to put it back to normal. Check out the project pics below, the frame repair is on page two - http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?journalid=43515&action=view
I have to agree with this. By the time I got in it I had too much money invested to nix that motor. I'll build something else for it eventually. I think a 455 would be cool in this truck.
The Jalopy Journal
