Technical Chassis Paint Discussion

Hey there. It's about that time of the project where I need to start finishing my parts. I painted them with rust oleum rusty metal primer just to encapsulate all of the stuff I could have missed.
I do not have a spray gun nor a good compressor; just a three gallon craftsman I got when a Sears near me was going out of business.
I frequent car shows a lot, like most of you, and have had my look at the paint. A lot of people use a gloss black; but especially when looking at the frame in the engine bay, it looks kinda too clean, if you know what I mean.
I was actually thinking of something with a wee bit of texture, and have seen blitz black (and people's completely opposing views on it). I want something super strong, and I have my frame galvanized underneath the paint.
What is the consensus?

 

Direct to metal epoxy primer, followed up with a satin single stage industrial urethane like axalta I rob or ppg delfleet

 

Ok, now is there a suggested cfm or even paint gun for this task? I am going to have to buy a compressor, just need to know which size.

By the way, do you mean direct to metal primer, or epoxy primer? And will this require me to get rid of the galvanizing? Thanks...

 

Just out of curiosity and this isn't meant to bust your balls, but why did you paint a galvanized frame with rusty metal primer? Also, I think rust oleum product are oil based and may not be compatible with other paint systems. Hopefully an expert can chime in on this.

 

What are the opinions on painting a frame with truck bed liner paint? To my "clueless when it comes to painting" mind it seems like a natural. <shrug>

 

Look for "Ch***is black paint". That was the go-to paint for frames for years. I think it would even work over the Rustoleum you have on there now.

 

Hey, the ***le is 'ch***is paint discussion' so, let's discuss. Hijack alert! It's getting time for me to paint my frame too. I plan on a silver color. I would like it somewhat durable but I certainly don't wanna break the bank. Epoxy primer, color, clear? Rattle cans probably wouldn't be very durable, right? Thoughts or opinions, please?

 

Just wanted to update, I did not paint over the galvanizing, but rather have bare spots that I worked on and I also have added boxing plates into the equation.
I used the rusty metal primer on my torque tube as well as my axel housing, and am about to need to do something to my brakes. I want the frame and the parts all to match of course, so I will need something that will work over bare and galvanized metal in the least. Anything?

 

I either have my complete FINISHED ch***is and suspension parts powder coated or I use Vansickle Tractor/ Industrial enamel with hardener. BTW you can brush it on and it will flow out and look really good with a little patience and practice.

 

Do you think it would flow ok over galvanized? I am debating on finishing everything and getting it re galvanized and going from there because right now there are bare spots...

 

When you say galvanizing your frame, are you talking, a galvanized paint, or having the entire frame hot dipped in a galvanizing tank? If you're doing hot dip galvanizing, all paint will have to be stripped and in theory you shouldn't need paint.

Vansickle, Valspar, rustoleum industrial enamel with hardener will work over your existing rustoleum rusty metal primer.

 

Hot dip galvanizing would also warp it all to hell. You should see what it does to structural steel my company's shop has dipped.

 

I don't know anything about painting over and rust oleum stuff...you could por 15 it, than prime within the por 15 window, and then top coat.

 

I got my frame zinc coated; ie spray gun. I was really just after what people do to the frame other than a gloss black... I was thinking a charcoal black/ gray a cool way to go. But I was also wondering if there was any way to introduce a little texture to the paint...

EDIT: Just researched "hot rod flatz" charcoal firemist paint. Any experience with the series?

 

I've never used hot rod flatz, there's many satin black ch***is paints out there, the charcoal would look good.

I'm not trying to be a pain in the *** here, my concern is the zinc paint and the rustoleum. These are your sealer, primer coats. Your paint is only as strong as your base. If the rustoleum is cured well you "should be" ok shooting automotive paint over them. It could also lift at the edges and be a big mess.

Since you have rustoleum as a base, I suggest using Rustoleum or a comparable industrial enamel as a top coat, valspar, Vansickle would also work. These are oil based enamels. You can use Valspar hardener in them $13. You can thin them with acetone to spray, or thin lightly and brush on.
If you want satin black, mix flat black and gloss black. If you want charcoal, mix flat black with battleship grey gloss. I have added copper pearl to leather brown rustoleum, you get a little shimmer from it, but not much.

I'd just hate to see you get your paint on and have it lift.

If anyone has shot automotive enamel or urethane over rustoleum, speak up

 

Thanks a ton indy. I have only put the rust oleum on parts that I can easily strip. That is the main reason why am sorting out this fiasco now; before i paint more parts... Lol.
The zinc paint is on there. It ain't gonna lift and I hear it is a great foundation. I have been welding and grinding on it and it has been tough.
I will need to buy a compressor regardless and am thinking of the senco 4.3 gallon and the astro pneumatic lplv gun.
I have done a little research and have learned that urethane is the way to go, but I don't see it used much on frames. Again, if you or anyone knows much about it, I would love to know.

Ps. I would also like to know the best way to paint the drilled holes through my new boxing plates on my frame. I have a feeling it could be a chore.

 

Don't want a one way conversation here, but i realized that the hot rod flatz is kinda a finish paint, and I will need something to sand down before top coat; so that it will come out perfect. I am once again lost... Any experience?

 

I've had great luck with rustoleum hammer black paint from home depot. you can simply brush it on or spray it. And it looks like it's been powder coated. easy to touch up if you need to grind and weld and looks sweet!

 

I think this is probably the best way to go. The other option is to strip everything down & start from square one.

 

No thoughts on ppg or spi?

 

friend of mine uses ''bridge'' paint bought from an industrial paint supplier. yup the stuff they paint bridges with. tough and durable whether it will go over your primer no idea. be sure to thin down that rustoleum paint and add a bit of hardener or it will take forever to set up. didn't do that on a truck rack once and it was soft for a long time.

 

I'm doing mine right now. KBS cleaner, acid etch, then their paint over rust satin black with a brush. It is very thin, so 2 coats and needed. First time I've used it, so it is an experiment at this point. Does look good and I like the satin look

 

Tractor Supply used to sell an implement enamel that was very durable. With a splash of flattener you could lose some of the sheen.

 

Don't even THINK about using any paint other than Rustoleum over any Rustoleum primer, especially their Rust Metal Primer. You'll just make a mess, if you do............ask me how I know

 

on truck frames ( peterbilt , kenworth, navistar ) we use rustoleum Industrial Acklyd enamel ( ace hardware also sells it and just as good and cheaper ) black with a deglosser ( on the shelf at the big box stores in the paint area ) and a touch of hardner , we sandblast the rust off then zinc primer it then rustoleum coat it , you can use a tight nap roller if you want it super smooth finish or a nice fine bristle brush , and once dried ( keep a fan blowing on it as it dries quicker as the air doesn't move around bodys ) the stuff is hard and durable even on the sand and gravel trucks and easily touchupable , we found that body style paints chip off easily as they are made to be thin and clear coat dulls over time when it sees sand and road dust .

 

Alright. I have decided on getting a rolair 2.5 hp compressor, and I will plan on getting an external tank as required after I paint a couple of parts. Still thinking of a hvlp gun... Thinking sharpe. (100 dollar one)
I researched and have heard that por is not really good for the frame, as it spider cracks and does not flex well. I think that since my model a will have a little more flex than a normal car, I will need some sort of epoxy.
I went to my local paint shop and they said that ppg dp90 can be sprayed over zinc, as well as bare metal of course.
The only thing I am wondering about is spi as I think it is a polyurethane paint; durable.
I am willing to take the rust oleum off of the couple parts I put it on so that I do the car right.

 

Interesting....lots of strong opinions about what to do, with no discussion at all about what kind of build it is, or what you want the whole car to look like when you're done...or much consideration of your apparently limited experience, equipment, and money for supplies.

The suggestions to brush on black semi-gloss Rustoleum sound most appropriate to me.

 

squirrel has some good advice. Just out of curiosity how much money do you have in this? You don't have to actually say, just keep in mind what you spend on paint should be proportional to the rest of the build.

 

Well, I am just starting my real build, so I do not have much in it yet. As I stated, I really just need a good paint to use on all of my parts after I clean them. I want a durable finish that will last a very long time with no worrys of rust; even though I am in the north east.
I have of course no experience, but my opinion is that I have to learn, no? And what is better than on a frame that mostly no one would see. The only reason I do not want to go gloss black is, again, I don't really like the look (especially near the horns and the hood opening). I would much rather have a little texture to the frame. I like the hot rod flatz finish.
I am not going for a million dollar paint job, but I figure j can coat every ch***is part, including setup costs, for less than one thousand. I don't think going to the paint shop every time I need a paint is the right thing to do.

 

you can also go to your paint dealer and see if he has the black eggshell formula that is basically the satin/semigloss paint they used under hoods and on ch***is on GMs only reason why we used the rustoleum was we always touched up the frames and axle housings on the trucks for the owners and the stuff was cheap and durable . por 15 is a good undercoat but a lousy top coat , it must be sealed .and if there system ( clean and prep ) is not used sometimes it will flake off .