Projects Chassis Research style dragster/Comp Coupe build flathead powered

Nice job on the blower. Glad to see you're progressing and I hope Beth is healing and soon will be back on the "T". Looks like it won't be too long and you'll be done and ready for some fun.

 

Boy that was a lot of material hanging off the chuck with so little grab---even with light cuts

 

don't pressurize it Tim I wouldn't want the problems with seals

 

Tim that blower must have oil pressure there are no bearings in it it has to have pressurized oil to it or it will seize up in about 3 seconds lol it's like a crank in an engine it has to have oil pressure or it will lock up so it needs to be pressurized and also will have to have a drain on both ends of the blower back in the engine

 

I stand corrected listen to Randy..............

 

WOW never seen a GMC blower without bearings ! Both plates should have good bearings in them and need very little oil to keep them lubed . A small amount of oil up to the bottom of the bearing usually works very well....

 

All the 71 and 92 series blowers do have bearings but the 53series is a different breed the only 53 series that has bearings is the 8v-53 the 2,3,4, and 6v-53 has the pressurized style the famous 144 blowers that b&m and weiand and others sell are patterned after the 4-53 that blower will work just fine I ran one on a 283 Chevy and it worked very well it's very important to keep the engine oil changed properly

 

Beth is still healing so I'm doing most of the work on the car till her neck heals all the way, She wants to do the work on her T still so it's on the back burner

Yeah, Bruce looking at the pics again makes me relize that was pretty dumb , Could have gotten what little brains I have hurt again, don't heal as fast as I used to

Randy how high up the plates should the oil drains be

That's right Carl Randy's done a bunch of theses type blowers, 71 type are alot less headache to set up,But where's the fun in that

Yeah Jim Randy's right no bearings in this type 4-53, , How have you been doing, Back all healed up? Tim Jones

 

Start of the swing arm idler bracket

 

Tim the drains can be low from the factory the were at the bottom you already plugged them so it doesn't matter Also how thick of material are you using to build your idler bracket looks to be 1/2" if so you should make it at least 1" thick I've bought and run thinner ones and they always broke or been real hard to keep straight just a thought anyway keep up the good work

 

Yes Tim back is doing ok. Sold my Fuel Injection shop and closed it last Sept. Doing just ignition now , still pretty busy though....

 

Thanks for the info Randy, I think before I shitcan this bracket I'll try adding a backbone to it ,I have a triangle piece left from cutting this out I'll weld to the backside, Plus I don't think I have any 1 inch thick pieces left, but I'll check just incase

As long as your upright and busy all is good ,,,,,,,,, more pics from the work today

 

Many years ago my brother built a 4/53 blower, he made new endplates that used bearings, and seals like a 6/71 does.

 

Tim, Buy cutting away the material at the pinch bolt, you will never get it to hold tight enough because the material wants to bend/pivot in the corner, would have been better to drill and tap into the material and counter bore using an allen bolt for the pinch. also the bore must be pretty much perfect to the dia of the snout (tap on) otherwise there will only be 3 points of contact after you tighten it .

 

Thanks Ken , if this thing works OK I'll do that in the future

Dug around the shop and found a piece of 1 inch thick Alum, I guess this ones getting hung on the wall

Thanks for the info Bruce, I'm starting over with a 1 inch thick piece, I'll do the pinch bolt the way you said, any recomendation on bolt size,,, Man for just one guy I sure make alot of scrap alum, LOL

 

nothing wrong with scrap Tim, just melt it down and re-purpose it
give me a call at 916-300-6779 when ya get a chance please

 

Worked on my Y adapter for the dual carbs, pay no attention to my shitty welds, an hours worth of die grinder time on the inside of the runners an some epoxy, ready to roll, still might put some port lines on it ,have to see how it runs, My Buddy Roseville Carl sent me out one of his ibler brackets to see if I could use it before building another swing arm one, Doing some rewireing for the new style starter today

 

Looking good Tim. Nice to see some people are making progress.

 

Nice to get back on this, Between Beth's neck healing and the cold Iowa winter , this things been sitting awhile

 

Beth's healing is important too. We're keeping her in our thoughts and hope she is healing well.

 

Roseville Carl sent me out one of his idler Brackets , I think we can make it work, for the blower setup,, We got the wiring bugs figured out and Beth finally got to sit in the car with the motor running, Here's the link, Sorry don't know how to embed the vid

 

Uh Tim your video is private need to share it

 

Try it now Carl, not sure if I changed it

 

Worked fine for me now. And awesome you couldn't have wiped the grin off Beth's face with a snow plow. She better practice up on her emergency egress routine.

 

Sounds great Tim, Beth looked a little intimidated but she'll get use to it. You're getting closer man!

 

Way too cool Beth!!!! can't wait to see the real grin after your first run, but that grin will have to do for now.
And Tim that's a cool way of shedding weight off the dragster........................

 

This is AWSOME!!! Sooo much inspiration, just love it!

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Thanks she's still Grinning, I think when she broke her neck it took some flex out of her

Well I wouldn't say it sounded great , but it did start, She'll get used to it, the first time I drove one it scared the crap outta me

That grin will last awhile I'd say, ( shedding weight off the dragster)by getting the fat guy out of the seat

Thanks you, Now you need to get yours done

 

Well just like they say change one thing and alot more follows, My driveline cover was not as easy to use slideing the two pieces together, so I cut in half to make the driveline easier to get at, No problem so far , set up the rear end gears with the coupler ,Then it starts, because with the coupler installed on the rear my 6 inch drive shaft turns out to be 4 inchs, that sets the alinement off about 1/16 on an inch, No room for error without risking breaking something, Soo I unbolt the rear and realine it , weld the mounting holes on the mounting flange shut and redrill them, then remember the driveline cover, now it doesn't fit , time to get the grinder out, ,after that's all inplace I go to mount my new brake master cylinder the newer style is longer than the old one,and won't fit between the lower frame braces on the floor,, So what else is new time to remount the master cylinder, that change makes the brake handle a push type , and if you ever used a push type handbrake when the car is bounceing to a stop ,, Well it sucks, Soo Time to raise the handle braket to keep it a pull type after that I run the brake lines ,, bleed them and all is well,, also made some header pipe covers and added more lights here's the pics, Tim Jones