That's cool I looked at those parts but the guy must not have really wanted to let them go at the time cause he gave the "I'm going to be buried with these" price ha ha I built this out of a touring with a buddy of mine inside a house he was renovating...yeah we did all the welding 2x3 tubing frame etc. in the back bedroom I called it T Willy ...the body panels came out of an old 1930's-40's junkyard that had been bulldozed off a cliff that I found just over the border in Washington back in the '90's and was full of '20's sheetmetal
Pulled the rad, grill, and hood of yesterday in prep for a new front spring, brass shackle bushings, a track bar and some other corrections. 1" of front up travel is not enough. Amazing how filthy everything gets in six months of limited use. Easier to rebuild it than wash it.......
Yes, limited up travel is an issue with my Chevy too, but low isn't as important as being able to drive it, really drive it.
I'm actually more worried about breaking parts than anything. It drives great but it's eating spring bushings and bashing the axle into things.
Is there a bind or a twist in the axle that is causing the bushings to wear? For example, on Model Ts, the axle can be pushed or pulled out of it's natural position by the wishbone and cause wear on the bushings.
The axle was pushed a bit forward, not enough to crack the bushings. The bushings are just crappy plastic. I'm replacing them with oilite brass ones. Should last really well.
What have you done with the door handle and making it work with the latch? The handle posing a problem for me.. Was going to do a lever and cable thingy but will not fit thru door handle hole..
It's kinda hard to explain. I cut the shaft off just before the window track. Bent up a pice of 5/16 square into a kinda hook that goes around behind the window felt with the track removed. Then welded on a little lug to pull on a 1/8 wire attached to the inside door handle mechanism. That has another rod that goes back to the bea claw latch.
I am going to presume your latch is in a different place than stock location. Raised up a bit? One thing on my build. copying yours a little once latch was moved out that 3/8th or so the inside lever was at correct length to use the stock holes and rod length with the bear claw..
My latch is in the stock location. The handle is also in the original hole. When the door is closed, the arm inside the door just rests on the top of the latch case. That way you can turn the latch backwards and bend things. With mine you only need move the outside handle about a 1/2" to open the door.
So in between helping my kid d on his F150 prerunner and waiting on parts I have slowly been getting some work done . I chased the thread on one wishbone end , only to find out for some dumb reason a threaded one left hand. So I'm waiting on another die. Ugh. I found some aftermarket spring perches in my pile. Which are 3/16" taller! That coupled with an A spring clamp should be about 1-3/8 front travel, instead of the 7/8" it had. The A perch sits up tight to the frame. I bought a speedway spring but it is a lot different than my original. I'm happy with my ride quality and stance, I just don't like breaking parts. I changed out the spring and perch bushings to oilite brass. Sick of the plastic already.
So pulled the pan and oil pump drive shaft. I had to trim it down enough to fit a dodge small block Mallory distributor instead of the chevy one. Figured out that the drive gear wasn't sitting just right and the pattern was low on the gear. So I shaved a 1/16" off the bottom of the gear, which I should have done when I put the engine together. The gear had some pitting on the bottom. This allowed me to get the same 1/16" more engagement on the drive tang of the pump, which is a win. I hope the change in distributor will get rid of a little spark scatter and net me a better curve. The bottom of the pan scared me a bit cause it looked horribly dirty, turns out it's moly, probably off the cam and ARP main stud lube. The oil was nice and clean and the bottoms of the lifters and cam look great!
Well my kid bailed on working on his truck due to rain so YEH! Dad gets to work on his shit! Got the oil pan back on, and fitted a PCV valve into the finned valley cover. It's a threaded one out of some import shitbox. Getting all the bolts back into the valley cover without removing the intake was "interesting" .. Forceps, long extensions and a small amount of cussing and threats got it done.
My daughter and I were laughing about exactly that after we found out she can't squeeze her hands under the intake to put the bolts in either...
We should make a hot rod version of that game with a top & bottom version. For the bottom version you stick it to the bottom of a table and roll under on a creeper with a flashlight.
Sissy streetrodder shit, cowl vent and windshield seals.... One step closer to killing off more of the wind noise.
It’s crazy how much difference little stuff like that makes. I had a new windshield and rubber put In and was shocked at how much noise was gone. Thanks for the update
I was just being silly. The true source of the squealing wind noise was two 1/8" gaps at the corners where the roof skin meats the panel above the windshield under the visor. Not sure what was in there from the factory but it rotted away. I pumped it full of seam sealer. Should be fixed now. It was unbearable driving with the windshield closed before. The pressure built up under the visor creating an ear splitting whistle.
Funny how getting a body that hasn’t shakes and shimmied in 60 Years makes new noises after a couple trips around the block haha I’ve got a new screech I’m trouble shooting at the moment lol
Pondering headline material. Thinking an antique white with dark brown stitching to contrast the dark brown seat. Wondering if cloth might be better than Vinyl though. Thoughts?
The Jalopy Journal
