define cheap. i had 4 grand in a budget small block by the time I added up everything from the wingnut to the radiator.
I can walk out of my engine builders with a mild 300+ hp smallblock for $1500. Figure another $500 to actually have it running. For about $300 less I can have a dead stock one that make about 250hp.Matters how much HP you want to make. Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go?
Here in rustland running V8 cars with rotten bodies can be had for a couple hundred bucks, in all the cars I've had, I've only built one engine, a '61 348 police special. The cheapest engines are running good when you buy them. Stick in a cam, intake, and exhaust if you want them to go fast.
I agree with Squablow..... Find a runner, dump the rest of it! I bought and drove home a Plymouth Fury for $200 with a 335 horse Commando 383 in it, took the engine, ****** and rearend, sold the exhaust manifolds for $180 and the car for $48 dollars. I got PAID $28 dollars to take a great drivetrain!! 8)
Yeah score something that's runnin' even if the body is a mess. I bought a '71 Monte Carlo last year for $200 just for the 402 big block in it and parted out the rest.I made enough money to hop it up.
I guess i should be more specific. I want to build/buy a low priced engine that will run good any tips or website that you have used will help me when looking for used running engines or cores to build my own. I dont want to overlook somthing and buy a beater.
All the info you need is only a post away.... I'm sure there are a lot of cheap *******s here that know a lot of ****....
There's a good book I picked up on how to rebuild a smallblock Chevy that tells you how to find the right donor. It has a baby blue cover with a picture of a dolled-up smallblock. Can't remember the name. I bought a performance rebuild kit from Northern Automotive, https://www.northernautoparts.com/Index.cfm I bought a set of heads from Aero Head in Indianapolis that were opened up for 2.02 valves and used the Northern porting kit to match them to the block. A new **** crank was $165 or so and was better than a reground. I used the ProForm gear drive and roller tip rockers and the no-name finned covers. With the machine work, I had less than a grand in it and Dyno 2000 says it's 392 hp with 406 ft-lb. I haven't got it in yet, it's a winter project.
Pick your small block, and ask specific questions problem by problem. Read and cross refrence with the search engine so previous info won't waste time. In august the father son project was without hope, This week we dropped the engine in and only bought when necessary.
I am looking for a ford or chevy small block and will be doing some junk yard searching and dont want to waste time money on ****py motors.
I bought a great running '83 LTD, 302 with an AOD, complete and driving for $300. They don't get much cheaper than that. I didn't even need it, but who could p*** it up?? Hell the A/C even works
Wrecked Camaros and Mustangs are cheap, and often come with 5 speeds. There was a running 350 5 speed wrecked '90 Camaro on my local Craigslist for $300......
then do what all these guys have been saying.....BUY A RUNNING ENGINE in a car so you can check it out first... like hear it run , check the oil pressure , do a compression test , etc
I just bought a 91 crown vic, found the resepits in the glove box where is was a detectives car an motor an trans was rebuilt replaced about 4 years ago. Already been swaped to carb an aluminum intake... Paid 100 bux fer it...hehe..
That sounds about right. I can`t understand how or why someone can get 3-4 grand in a rebuilt smallblock unless there paying too much to someone for there work!
if you spend thousands on a small block, it better perform like a big block! but I'd rather spend less money and build the big block. Seriously, a good used engine, preferably from a donor car that you an drive and evaluate at your leisure, is the best bet. Unless you're gonna put more than 50k miles on your car in a few years, it's a waste of money to rebuild one.
My suggestion: `87-`91 5.0 Ford, the ones with factory forged pistons with under 100,000 miles. Freshen her up with rings, bearings, gaskets and seals. Home port the heads (don't go overboard, just straighten the walls and match them up) B303 or E303 cam, fresh springs. Top off with an Edelbrock Victor Jr manifold, 650- 750 carb. Then hang on!
If you're looking to build an engine, pick up a copy of David Vizard's How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget. I think it's exactly what you're looking for. You could also pick up a copy of his book Performance with Economy, but that one's been out of print for a while. Hope this helps, Ed
Northern Auto parts is -THE- deal! for street driver motors-I've used their kits with upgrade in camshaft and gaskets with good success.....I usually end up with total $800-$1000 in a longblock -SBC......
Talk to your machine shop before you buy anything. I'm not that far along yet, but mine claims they can offer better prices than any of the mail order houses. I'd rather give my money to a local business anyway. Ed
When you got a Ford, you don`t need a Goodwrench! I think its great that you want to keep your Ford all Ford!
Burger- the grand I mention was a completed[inc' machine work] bored/new piston longblock....used a kit they sell for 155 dollars....added a cam and better gaskets-used my turned crank and my used rods resized.....
How much power would this engine make? My friend has a 429 in peices in his garage anyone build one o these. I hesitate to use this one because of the gas mileage.
Amen. It always cracks me up to hear about someone with 3K or more in a small block Chevy or Ford when good runners can be had for a few hundred bucks. Plus, those super-built up 400HP++ smallblocks usually run like **** on the street, get 6 mpg and look just as boring as the next guy's spray-paint rebuild. Seems to me the cheapest running 302's around come in early 80's Lincolns. Clapped out pimpmobiles with **** brakes, cigarette-burned seats, and the smoothest running low mileage granny-pampered motors in them. If I wanted one, that's what I'd look for.
Better yet, find a beater '88-'92 Lincoln Mark VII. They have the same 5.0 HO's as a GT Mustang with E7 heads, a better cam from the factory than the Town Cars, headers that may work in that '54, etc. I picked up a running '90 MK VII LSC for 300 bux over the summer. Gonna swap the engine complete with EFI into my '64 as soon as I get my stock car finished. Jan
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