The 327 (GEN-1 AMC V-8, or Rambler V-8) was made for Rambler Ambassador cars from 1957-1966. Jeep used it from 64-67 in the Wagoneer and Gladiator. It's more common in cars, but has to be an Ambassador for the 327. The 57 Rambler V-8 (except for the limited production 57 Rebel, which got a 327, only 1500 made) and 58-61 Rebel (all Rambler V-8s were Rebel) got a 250 w/solid lifter cam, 2V or 4V. No V-8 in the "mid size" Rambler for 62. In late 63 the 287 was introduced in the Classic as dealers complained about dropping the 250, and was used through 66. No 4V option on the 287, 2V only, but everything off the 327 bolts right up. It's a reasonably strong and reliable engine for it's size. In all three everything in the bottom end is forged. It looks like and weighs as much as a 396 Chevy or 352/390 Ford though. Lots of room to bore it out... can be bored 0.080" easy, and with sonic checking for core shift can go as high as 0.125" over. AMC only had the cast iron intake, but a later model AMC intake can be adapted using 1/2" thick spacer plates on each side. You can have the cam reground to be a bit more aggressive, and replace the factory 450-500 cfm carb with a 600-650 cfm PLEASE!! That alone will gain a good bit of power! All three sizes share components like crank and rods. The blocks were cast with different bores and of course different pistons were used (3.50", 3.75", and 4.00" bores). The 250 used a solid lifter cam so has different rocker arms, the 287 and 327 used hydraulic lifters. I'm not sure about valve sizes, but I *think* the 287/327 used the exact same heads and the 250 used a casting with smaller valves. I can only find a casting number for 327 heads.
You sir...are VERY correct. My buddy's 360 powered Javelin has run 11.03 on ALL STOCK bottom end, iron heads, and a torquer intake from a zillion years ago. It typically runs low 11's... The pistons were fly-cut for the valves IN THE ENGINE with a drill...! Find a junk Jeep... It's a LOT easier than finding a 401!
Late to the thread, late to the program, and even if it was new enough to qualify you'd be damned surprised the MPG you can pull out of a stock American. I seem to recall reading Mobilgas Economy Run figures for '61 or '62 they were pulling 35 MPG out of one of those things.
You need to read up on the old economy runs! Top speed never got over 45 mph, aggressive use of the OD free-wheeling feature (if the driveshaft turns faster than the engine there is no engine braking in OD -- it just coasts!). Drive like that in your 500 hp hot rod and you'll be surprised at the MPG too!! I averaged 20-22 in my 63 American with some mild mods and an auto trans, 22-24 is possible with the OD trans and easy driving. Not that you're going to be able to drive very aggressively anyway...
Hey Farna, any chance a chevy s-10 blazer or rg cab short bed p/u frame and suspension would work under a 64 American 2dr. I know some floor work and maybe trunk work would be required but in my case the Ramblers body is o.k. and the s-10's are plenty available.. thinking p/s p/d/brakes small v-8 just a cool little street rod.. on the cheap side.. I know I'll get beat up for wanting to use chevy but it's available and I would like to keep the ol girle out of the crusher or parting it out.. thanks
The Rambler is a unit body, so unless you cut a lot of that out it will sit high on a frame. You could cut the entire front off at the firewall and use the front half of an S-10 frame, but that will take a lot of work. Unless the Rambler has a good bit of rust in the front rails, I'd just pull the drivetrain from the S-10 and use that -- all the way back to the rear axle. The rear axle just happens to be narrow enough for the Rambler. You'd end up with a different wheel bolt pattern for front and rear though. People look at the trunnion front end and get worried for some reason. The upper trunnions can be a pain, but it's pretty easy to work with. The only "problem" is that rebuilt upper trunnions cost about $130-$150 each (www.kennedyamerican.com, www.ramblerparts.com). But once done you're done! They will last a good 30-40 years, and many of the replacements have a grease fitting -- the originals didn't because of the way they work. The big car and older model trunnions are totally different from the 64-69 American/Javelin/AMX trunnions, but those three are the more popular models and what people are most familiar with -- and some despise! So what I'd recommend is spend the money to rebuild the Rambler front suspension and use the S-10 as a donor for the drivetrain and other parts. Even stick the S-10 dash and steering column in if you want. The S-10 power steering box fits -- just use the lower front mounting hole than drill the frame for the others. The different wheel bolt patterns might be of some concern for a spare tire, but you can drill the rear axle hubs for a 4.5"x5 bolt pattern. For front disc brakes get a Scarebird (www.scarebird.com) AMC front disc kit and use the calipers and hoses from the S-10. With a little ingenuity you should be able to use the S-10 brake booster and all too. The Scarebird kit is just a bracket and seal adapter, it mounts GM calipers and a Ford Ranger rotor (that you supply). About $400 total, but you'll be spending less by using the S-10 calipers. You can do all the cutting and set the body on the S-10 frame, just seems like a lot more work than the above.
61' thru 63' Ramblers do make great looking gassers. Go for it! If you have any fabricating skills it is a "simple" task to convert to a straight axle suspension. Pay attention to how they do it on all the other Uni-body cars like Chevy II's and Falcons and follow suit. Also if you do decide to go with a SBC, 63' thru 67' Nova Fenderwell headers fit great. Also, dont forget to put a cage in it, they go like hell !
We do not use the S10 caliper on this application, but 1990 Celebrity calipers. Before you bark on the pavement in disgust, remember that they have the same piston size as the S10 caliper, and are a much more rigid design. We also supply a wheel centering ring, banjo bolts and cotters.
I'm going up to see the s-10 on Friday talked to the guy that owns it and it sounds pretty good.. pics of the S-10 and the Rambler note the pic of the Red Rambler was the parts car the one I'm working on is burried in the garage.... as a lot of winter projects are at the first part of winter.. I should be getting to it in a couple more weeks ..
Sorry about the error on my part Scarebird!! I knew they were a standard GM caliper, didn't realize the Celebrity and S-10 calipers were different (probably rear and front drive make the difference in mounting points).
Well so much for the S-10, guy failed to mention the paper work hasn't been changed over from the last owner and there is no smog equipt on it.. in colorado you have to have an E-test after every sale unless it's pre 1975. also new law says the buyer has to pay any back years the vehicle wasn't registered. and it hadn't been registered for a while.. this wouldn't be a problem if I could put it in the garage until I'm ready for it but I would have to keep it in the drive for a while so oh well... thinking I'll scratch the S-10 idea and maybe go gasser....
Well, could you get the S-10 at a good enough deal to pull the drivetrain then junk the body? You don't really need the frame anyway. Use the rear axle and get dual bolt pattern wheels, or different size wheels on front and back with a single dual pattern wheel as a spare (assuming you plan on driving enough to want a spare!). I'm not sure what the S-10 bolt pattern is though, there may not be a 5x4.5" and S-10 dual pattern wheel.
Put a 427 side-oiler in it or a 426 Hemi! Mopar 440 with a cross-ram would be cool and cheaper too. A Pontiac 389 with tri-power would also be cool, straight out of a GTO. Dress any of these engines up with a '60s look--speed equipment, colors, etc. For example, a yellow or gold-painted engine and heads with chrome or polished valve covers and white headers. Don't jack the car up too high either. Unless it's a Street Freak you're really after then the sky's the limit. Oh, and run a 4-speed. Anyone can stab-and-steer an automatic car.
Paperwork/Registration issues are never fun to deal with but as farna said, if you can get it cheap enough it might be worth it to take what you need and scrap the rest. I am still Pro the Gasser idea. It's really not that hard to do, either way you will need the parts.
Hey cut55 sounds cool but way out of my range for many reasons.. Farna I think I'm going to read a few more of the many post that are here about gassers and street rods, customs and others and try to get a better feal for how I want to move forword.. was also looking at a couple of the kits that are offered for 62-63 novas looks like you can go gasser or street.. I just know I want that 70's 80's kind of look. and something with respectable sound and performace.. as well as turn key to go across country if wanted.. oh and a couple of nice black marks on the ground when I get the itch.. thanks for the input guys I'll keep looking....
Yeah sorry, you did say cheap! I still think a 440 Mopar and a 4-gear could fit into your plan. Hell, a correctly-dressed SBC would be fine too. Just nail the wheels-tires and stance and you're half-way there.
found a rambler gasser project on another site grabed a couple pics looks cool,and he's doing a one piece front end.. however mine would be more street friendly.. don't think I would want the full cage treatment and the nova kits weld to the firewall not through it..
440, That is a cool looking car and definitely one way to tackle the straight axle project. In your planning be warned to use the Chevy II nova clips as a reference, the actual kit itself would take some modification to make work on your car. Nova clips unbolt from the body tub, Ramblers do not. The way I did my car was quite simple, I used the stock unit-body frame rails, removed the stock suspension and rolled in the straight axle. Please keep in mind that there is lots of factoring for caster angles, spring sag, square, steering arms ect. ect. but don't be scared it is by far the easiest suspension to work with.(My opinion) After you have the axle completed under the car then you can choose to remove the stock inner fender/spring towers or simply leave them there. If you do remove the inner fender support I highly recommend adding some tubing supports from the nose to the firewall or cage.
Will a later AMC inline 6 fit in the early 60's Ramblers? A 232? A 258? Or (better yet) the more recent Jeep 4.0? Just curious.
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