Art & Inspiration Cheap Paint Job. You can do it.

How cheap are you looking for? $8?
We dispose of at least a gallon of mixed paint a day. Should I save the scraps and paint my car with free paint?
I painted a 50 year old mini bike with said ""free" paint last week so my boss could mock it up. It will return to the paint shop next week to repair the scars from this mock up.

 

it looks the same today, but it never sits outside, always garaged,...I scuffed the paint some for a used look. I think it looks better than the 4 colors it was, before I painted it.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Shimm...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699113375&psc=1



https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-G...words=2k+clear+coat+can&qid=1688594193&sr=8-6

 

I love that truck man

 

I wanna see more of that truck rusty

 

Thanks, Highlander.
You sorta answered a Q I was going to ask on the clear.
If the whole car is literally frosted, how do they not get cracks in the coating, assuming it's actually driven on real-life roads? I'm not being funny. Although the roads I use, & the cars I drive - & would like to - probably don't deserve a real nice paintjob. But the oem stuff looks nice for quite awhile, even w/o much care. What am I missing here? Again, not being funny. ???
BTW, that black 2dr looks fabulous. .
TIA.
Marcus...

 

...here's a shot during the build, it's got a clip, Nova rear, 292 inline Chevy six, 350 trans, etc.

 

I’ll have to take a look (now that my local store is supposed to carry Magic) but 4/5 years ago, they had Magic brand reducer and hardener.

 

I used the tractor supply paint on a --tractor. Looked great at first, then as the sun worked on it the stuff faded like crazy (now i just say it was a flat paint i used). Never found out what to do to prevent that. Not that i'm ever going to paint the tractor again though.

 

what is frosted? Are you talking about bondo smeared across the entire car?

 

Some of you guys are taking this "cheap paint job" thing to a different level. That's not necessarily a good thing...

 

Having seen the finished scooter, I would say it's on topic seeing it looks like it came out of a mid sixties beach party or Elvis movie.

 

It's been my experience that the Magic tractor enamel doesn't chalk if the catalyst is used. I shot the propane tanks on our '47 Spartan trailer 6 years ago, until I built a storage barn to house it 2 years ago, the trailer sat outside in the weather. The tanks, painted with catalyzed enamel, Massey Ferguson red, are as shiny now as the day I painted them. The other little camper trailer I built to use while the Spartan was being built I painted accent stripes on (with the same paint), I didn't use the catalyst, and they're faded so badly now that the paint will not get glossy even polishing it. Also note that I'm advocating using AUTOMOTIVE PAINTS, and specifically recommend the "Kirker" paints I've been using lately. I strive to do the best I can, to get professional results, and end up with a job I'm proud of, not painting a car with house paint and mop just to brag about how little time, effort and money I spent.

 

Some do indeed crack here n there. Subtle at 1st like flex areas and some edges where thickness is excessive. Over time the heat cycles from being out in the hot sun will make it worse.

Yes. The whole car. Everything. Lots of chest thumping about that too, and just watch a rerun of "Overhaulin" to see them say "...and now the car is ready to go to mud." Sadly many unqualified and self proclaimed expert finishers border on abuse. And add the fact that when you do it it has to be the double throw down holy shit uber expensive brought down from a mountain by Moses himself $125/gallon shit that ½ of which ends up on the fuckin floor turning your shop area into what looks like a bakery with polyester flour everywhere. "C'mon Jocko you're exaggerating." but am I? 2 or 3 extra days of metal work or 2 or 3 weeks of making dust? I'll take the days, thanks...

 

Since I bought a shrinking disk set, and just recently the stud welder, the quality of the work I can do now has improved several times over, and the amount of filler needed has decreased by the same factor. I still need to use some icing, but not nearly as much. Kinda goes along with my philosophy of doing the best I can with what I've got.
Look at the photos of the wagon at the top of this thread, that car stands pretty tall for a cheap car. I spent half a day correcting some things that I wasn't happy with from the original job. I had made quarter panels from the character line down, after watching "Bad Chad" do the same on a '65 Galaxie convertible. I did a reasonable job, but I dropped the ball on the driver side wheel opening at the bottom. It didn't look finished, because it wasn't. So, while I was at it I repaired that. I want my son to be proud of the car, and tell people his dad did it for them.
The whole thing is proud of the job when it's finished, and to learn along the way.

 

My Pa in law bought a “restored “ 8N a few years ago. They went through it somewhat, did the brakes, new exhaust, etc. It looked like a brand new one when he got it, bright red and shiny gray. Well, after sitting outside a while, it lost it’s shininess, turning into flat colors. Now it looks like an original that has never been touched. I don’t know what paint was used, but I’d guess it was the so called tractor paint. Not that it matters, he bought it to use, not look at. If it had of been shedded, it might have lasted longer, but the UV rays flattened it out in no time. It that’s the look you want, that’s fine, but I’d prefer something glossy, thank you…

 

Read my post above about using the catalyst.

 

Maybe the title of this thread should have read "Inexpensive Paint Job" instead of "Cheap Paint Job". To me, an inexpensive paint job means you did the best job you could within your budget. A cheap paint job means you got the $39.95 Earl Scheib Special with the vertical light and dark zebra stripes like I got in my '65 Galaxie. Looked OK from 50 feet away.

Turn the can upside down after you reseal it.

 

I’m pretty sure whoever painted it didn’t use a catalyst.

 

I haven’t seen the hardener at mine for a couple years.
But if you like the tractor store stuff you’ll love the ppg version.

 

I do. But I like the much less expensive Kirker brand paints as well as PPG. I'm not advising anyone to paint a car with tractor supply paint. What I painted with the stuff is NOT a car.

 

Don't pour it out. Dip it out. Use a ladle or a little cup stuck onto a paint stick. Glue, tape, staples...don't matter.
Doing this will keep the lid gutter clean. If you get a little in there, take the corner of a paper towel and wipe it out. A little extra effort up front can save you money.
Example? I had 10 year old paint that was still liquid. I used it to touch up some spots on my OT drag racer. It was still good. And this is not an exaggeration

 

And if buying from a paint store, straight enamel is just a few bucks more than the alkyd.

 

thank you. I believe its faster to straighten the metal instead of all the bondo sculpting too

 

Thanks Highlander. What I suspected. At least on the cars I saw that I was told were frosted, there were no "arcs" to the sheetmetal between or at the seams & gaps - which is what made me ask the guys at House of Color. Also no cracks - yet. But the same cars don't showup all the time at btt50s.(they were there for demonstration of the paint, not bodywork done). Always wondered about the guys that do the boat-flake paint w/ loads of clear to bury the flake. How & why doesn't that crack??? Seems like a lot of work & expense to go thru just to expect failure soon. I can't do or afford metalfinishing, or an unwanted redo, but still...
Marcus...

 

Or, go to a Sherwin-Williams store and get one to the neat little pour spout things that snaps into the groove around the top. Keeps the paint out of the groove and much faster than dipping.

Or order from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Paint-Can-St...5&sprefix=paint+can+pour+spout,aps,224&sr=8-3

 

Yeah!. Or that!

I never remember to get those when I get ready to paint

 

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Eastwood line of paints. I used to shoot in my shop, just some draped plastic around them, with great results and excellent finish using a rather good DeVilbiss gun and some nice prep work. Many of these paint jobs are 20 years old now and still look decent.

I am no longer allowed to shoot here due to the lack of a legal booth and zoning regulations so I don't have any recent work to show. This car is perhaps 15 years old in Eastwood, just shot, no block and rub,

 

Darned bunny loving treehuggers

 

I can paint but I don't do body work well. Don't have the patience for it. I chose to take my chances and found my paint in the color I wanted and took the code to a local Macco shop and asked about a paint job. I discussed the details with the manager and told them they would receive the car in 16 pieces. Told them they had as long as they needed and what I expected to get back. They worked it all out and told me $5995. labor and material included with a color sand and buff. I shook his hand and left the car. Three months later it was done and I have to tell you after 8 years since finished it has held up wonderfully. .