Technical Cheaper alternatives for the Motorcraft FL1A oil filter

Sorry......but you all should of been stocking up on the stuff you need the last couple years , Ray Charles could have seen this coming. I have enough for at least a dozen oil changes for each car

then you have the normal everyday stuff like soap/razor blades/ food etc....you need to have been stocked up too

as for the FL1A.....I will check at work tomorrow to see what I can do on a quantity discount.

 

Doesn't matter how many you have. Eventually you will need more, and THEN you'll bitch about the price.

 

Time to check around at the parts stores I do not frequent and see what they have.

 

I use wix filters in my gasoline engines, I buy them by the 12 pack box.

 

Comparative with known quality filters such as the Wix 51515XP it is one of the lower priced flters now. outside of the cheap charlie stuff. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...188/v/a/5295/automotive-truck-1979-ford-f-150

 

Buy in bulk and get a discount

try an “ off brand” when I was in automotive Powerflow made a decent filter .


I like using wix ,kanolator , or Napa gold , I’ve also used Baldwin .

I change my oil frequently on my rides , a lot of times I’ll skip the filter once and just drain and fill the oil .

I was told this by a Mann filter rep ( they do all the euro car filters ) the filter can last for 16,000 km so one filter for 2 oil changes . This was on a car that took 8.0 litres of oil .

 

I just ordered these. 6 @ 3.61 ea, shipped. My modded oiling system the Dodge flathead uses them on the adapter.

 

The FL299 is a direct swap just longer, it's what we used on the 477/534 Ford truck engines.
I've also used the Purolator 30001 and the Baldwin B2 for many years both are good filters.

 

Maybe it's people buying 12 when they only need two?

 

eBay like others have said.........buy in bulk .

 

Jeff....I heard something very interesting regarding Ford oil filters the other day. This guy said the latest Motorcraft [factory Ford] oil filters have an internal one-way valve built in. Reason being the timing chain in the OHC engines have a tensioner that is controlled by engine oil pressure and if using a standard type filter the oil pressure goes away on engine shut-down. The tensioners retract and the chain gets loose. A worn chain could jump time on start-up. The one-way valve keeps oil pressure after shut-down I dunno, seems crazy to me but that's what I heard. Changing a filter must be exciting!
Anyway, if true, it may be part of the reason for higher prices?

 

Napa silver filters are not wix.

 

Notes:

• Wix makes the NapaGold and the Napa Platinum; they are identical in construction and are made on the same production line.

From:
https://www.fleetfilter.com/comparison-wixLD-filter.html

Could be a fake story, I guess.
Mike

 

I think your link is saying the Wix filters and the Napa filters are the same; not that the Gold and Platinum are the same. The main (only?) difference appears to be the media, the Gold filter uses "Glass enhanced cellulose", the Platinum uses "Synthetic".

 

Rocky i think what you are referring to is the anti-drainback valve. More specifically what it's made from. It's spring loaded and the spring type and valve material. A vertical spin on filter with threads on top doesn't need anti-drainback. Just those mounted upside down or sideways it has an effect to keep the filter full when engine is off.

 

I’m curious how often everyone changes their oil, and yess I know this is a very loaded question with lots of strong opinions.

The y block in my woody would have had a cartridge filter and 30w oil originally.
I’ve converted to a FLA1 spin on filter which I assume filters better than the original style, and I run a multi viscosity oil. I’ve also replaced the road draft tube with a pcv system.
I suspect the engine can go much further between oil changes than originally expected.
And I only drove the car on nice days and only a few thousand miles per year.

maybe I can save some coin by only changing the oil every few years

 

It depends really. In my daily drivers, I run a load of easy highway miles, so I'll do 4500 with conventional/synthetic blend in my 08 and 09 Fords. In my classics, I try to keep it to every 3000 miles, but in reality my 56 Olds will need a couple quarts over that 3000 miles, and my 57 Ford will need a quart every few hundred. The oil just sort of changes itself. The Olds I try to keep it to 3000 so I can put a new filter in, and the 57.... well, I'll spin a new filter on every few years haha. But generally speaking, I keep it to 3000 miles.

 

I quit changing my own oil on my OT modern cars AND my old stuff when the oil and filters got to the point where it was cheaper to just have my local oil change place do it. I get a free car wash with each one that we use on the dailies worth about $12 AND a coupon for a few bucks off the next change. All this for less than what I would pay for 5 qts and the filter. The young dudes in the pit love the older cars, a break in the day for them and they like to take extra special care.

Plus, it's worth the price of admission when you hear the guy in the pit say "wow, another one of these cannister filters!" (in my old truck)

 

Nothing but Wix here.

 

While working in a Ford service department a few years ago , we got talking to the Motorcraft rep about oil filters, quality, type of filter medium, and amount of medium. There were about 4 or 5 of us taking to him and various opinions flying about. Of course the Motorcraft rep defended his filters. We protested, so he went out to his car, grabbed a filter cutter. We headed over to the lube rack and the used filter barrel. He cut apart an FIA and showed us its construction and size and quality of filter medium. Then he suggested that we rummage through the barrel and pull out any filter we wanted and he would cut it apart. We disected several brands and found a wide range of quality and construction. Since these were all filters that fit Ford, it was a good comparison. We found the the best medium quality and number of pleats was a tie between Motorcraft and Wix, with a close second to Purolator. As has been said before, Wix makes NAPA filters. Surprisingly, Fram had one of the worst mediums and fewest pleats. We cut up a few because we thought it might be a fluke, but it wasn't. After that experience, I use exclusively, Motorcraft, Wix, or Purolator. Naturally, I shop to get the most product for my money. That day was a real eye opener. I would be interested if anyone else has done similar research.

 

One other thing. Someone mentioned that Ford filters have a bypass valve in the filter. All oil filtration systems have a bypass value , also known as a differential pressure valve. Either like Ford or like Chevy that has it in the adapter the filter screws onto. The little plastic disc to one side. The valve is set a 10 lbs. When the filter is clogged and reaches 10 more pounds of pressure than the system, the differential pressure valve opens and allows dirty oil to go through the system rather than allow the filter to clog and deny oil to the engine. An example is certain Nissan filter screws on a Ford, but it's valve is I the block and not the filter. It could spell bad news for the Ford motor if not changed soon enough or sludge clogs the filter. Just though I might mention that feature in all oil systems.

 

Yes, basically dozens of folks have done that research online in the last 20 years. That is why when these posts pop up so many folks mention fram is crap.

 

• MOTORCRAFT FL1A replacement filters
• Baldwin B2
• CARQUEST 85515
• COOPERS-FIAAM FT4403
• Donaldson P550008
• Fleetguard LF3313
• Fram PH8A
• GOODWILL OG117
• GOODWILL OG117HQ

• GOODWILL OG214
• GOODWILL OG214HQ
• K & N HP-3001
• KNECHT OC67
• LUBER-FINER PH8A
• LUCAS LFOS163
• Magneti Marelli 154078228510
• Magneti Marelli 1AMFL00029

• MAHLE OC67
• Mann W940/4
• Mann W9404
• MANN & HUMMEL ML1004
• MECAFILTER ELH4321
• MISFAT Z256
• WILMINK-GROUP WG1217221
• WILMINK-GROUP WG1379129

• Wix WL10170

 

All things Wix
https://www.wixfilters.com/lookup/FilterBySize.aspx

 

I was not aware that NAPA had a synthetic oil filter, but thanks to Blues4 I did some checking into it.
I would not hesitate to use those filters as that type of media has consistent pore sizes, lower pressure drop, higher efficiency. You pay more but about the price of a Big Mac full meal deal. So why scrimp on something as critical as oil filtration for your motor?

 

They do not use Fl1a's on OHC engines, and there is no way for the filter to hold pressure in a engine after it's shut down the oil will just run out of the bearings like normal, the tensioners have a ratchet like mechanism to keep them from retracting.

 

FL300 was used on police cars with an oil cooler, it’s about 1/2 the size of a FL1a and about 1/2 the price.
Search for like a mid 80’s LTD police package, I’m sure there is an equivalent wix filter and other brands.

 

The Fram PH8A is 4.50 so that might be a temporary back up until I get another source,kind of leary of using one since I had one leak at the seam years ago but have other places to check locally.

 

Way back to post #1, was at Wallmart yesterday and picked up 2 Motorcraft FL820A for my OT Fords. Still $5.93. (O'Reillys was $12 the last time I was there)The FL1A bin was empty and no price on it, so no help there. I guess you need to check around for stock. And, Yeah, their Fram shelves were stocked full.