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Hot Rods Cheatin' The Reaper

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Legendlives, Mar 5, 2016.

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  1. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 9,111

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Still here for me..
     
  2. I have them
     
  3. aldixie
    Joined: May 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,669

    aldixie
    Member

    Wow, just clicked on this thread. Very nice work from a great fabricator.
     
    Legendlives likes this.
  4. Brand Apart
    Joined: Jan 22, 2011
    Posts: 813

    Brand Apart
    Member
    from Roswell GA

    if your low on funds for wheels, do some fab work for cash or trade. Your chassis is AMAZING and great fab and metal work all around.
     
    Legendlives likes this.
  5. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    I do fab work for a living, so don't really want to piss off my boss by poaching his work! I do know what you're saying though, I do make some extra cash by trading parts I don't need, but I actually quite like the wheels :eek:
     
  6. bengeltiger
    Joined: Mar 3, 2012
    Posts: 469

    bengeltiger
    Member

    Beautiful chassis, great attention to detail. Thanks for sharing with the rest of us. As previously stated, threads like this encourage us to improve our own work.
     
    Legendlives likes this.
  7. This is my new favorite thread.
    At the moment I'm liking it even better than my own :eek:
     
    Legendlives likes this.
  8. bengeltiger
    Joined: Mar 3, 2012
    Posts: 469

    bengeltiger
    Member

    :eek: Say it isn't so! I really like both threads and appreciate the extra effort it takes to document and share your work with us mere mortals.
     
  9. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Trunk lid - the final (ish) chapter.
    All that was left to do was fabricate the inner drip/seal section.
    This started life as part of an old fire surround (upcycling is good, yes?). It's 1.2mm galvanised steel:

    from which I sliced a 90 degree angle section:

    And curved it by using hammer and dolly. I don't have a stretcher/shrinker, but I quite enjoy shaping metal the old fashoined way:

    Then edge-welded it to the skin:

    Once it was all made and welded into place:

    I made up this little tool from an offcut of 3/8" steel.

    to bend the inner return. This is done very slowly by easing it down in gentle angles until it reached 90 degrees


    Once that was done, all there was to do was make up a couple of small closing panels for the bottom:

    And welding the top section to the 'C' section that will be the support member for the lock.

    The return is there so I can rivet an aluminium panel to it which will clean up the look of the inside.


    I've left the bottom corners of the drip/seal rail unwelded as I may need to reshape them slightly when the lid is in place.
    The trunk lid is immensely strong but surprisingly light. That's about it until the hinge panel is welded to the body. Stay tuned!
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2016
  10. dentisaurus
    Joined: Dec 11, 2006
    Posts: 399

    dentisaurus
    Member
    from Boston

    very neat!
     
    Legendlives likes this.
  11. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Brakes
    "At last" I hear you say "Something different to that bloody trunk lid"

    The drop-tube front axle came with vented (Holden) discs, but no calipers.
    I found these on a local auction site. They are JFZ aluminium 4-pot calipers (same as Willwood). I paid a lot (for me). $101NZ, but they did come with 3 sets of pads, a master cylinder to suit and some flexible brake hoses.
    Cleaned up on right, as bought on left:


    Although I didn't know it when I bought them, they are the perfect size for the discs I have. Just need to make up mounting brackets and they'll be fitted:

    They have a nice old-school feel about them, but will undoubtedly stop the old Ford like an anchor has been thrown out the back!
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2016
  12. Today the pics are gone for me, all of them ?
     
  13. PKap
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 593

    PKap
    Member
    from Alberta

    Me too. They were there yesterday
     
  14. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Don't know what's happening to the pictures. Some I've had to re-upload, and some reappear as soon as I go into 'edit post'. Weird!
     
  15. bengeltiger
    Joined: Mar 3, 2012
    Posts: 469

    bengeltiger
    Member

    No pics for me, too. :(
     
  16. Yes, we've got no pics here either.:(
     
  17. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    So planned out the brackets (this stuff is all planned you know!):


    Cut and drilled the bracket material (this is 8mm mild steel plate). The four mount holes are already tapped m10 thread in this pic:


    Trial fit before going any further. The mount bolts are M10 12.9 countersunk allen head bolts.


    Then weld on the correct spacers. These were through-drilled the correct diameter and then tapped m12 after welding:


    and bolt it all together. The uprights will be countersunk more to allow the bolts to be flush, and the caliper bolts are only there for trial fit:


    There will need to be very thin shims between the calipers and mounts, but at least I know it will all works.
     
    BradinNC and saltflats like this.
  18. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    I'm slowly going through the photo's and re-hosting them. Please bear with me.
     
    bengeltiger likes this.
  19. dentisaurus
    Joined: Dec 11, 2006
    Posts: 399

    dentisaurus
    Member
    from Boston

    Nice work with the adapter plate. You went with counter sunk head bolts, just wondering what the need for that was as generally they aren't rated for high load (could be wrong about that). It looks like you have enough room for a cap or hex head bolt, did I miss something? Just curious.
     
  20. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Few reasons for using the countersunk bolts:
    1. The back of the hub isn't flat, it domes up towards the centre so 'normal' bolts would not seat properly.
    2. I think they will look better (I need to sink the hubs a little further before they are truly finished).
    3. They will only take rotational load, and the contact area on the relevant planes will be more than a standard hex-bolt.

    As mentioned in the text, these are 12.9 tensile bolts (those not familiar with the metric ratings, 8.8 is 'standard' for high-tensile bolt. 12.9 is more-or-less equivalent to 'grade 9' imperial). They will work fine!
     
  21. dentisaurus
    Joined: Dec 11, 2006
    Posts: 399

    dentisaurus
    Member
    from Boston

    Ah ha, thanks for the clarification.
     
  22. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    There is now a big hole where the front bulkhead used to be:
    I also started to tack in the rollcage. This will be fully TIG welded, but at this stage I'm using a MIG to tack it in place.
    I bought two complete rollcages plus a few odd bars and have 'dismembered' them to make the sections I need. Main hoop is a great fit, and I'm really pleased with the rear hoops.


    The next step will be door bars, screen top cross-bar and dashboard bar. Ultimately it will also have engine bars, door cross-bars and more going on in the roof area.....
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2016
  23. birdman1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 1,675

    birdman1
    Member

    dont you have anything better to do?? like a family or charity work?? LOL
     
  24. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    :rolleyes:
     
  25. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

  26. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  27. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    More work on the rollcage today.
    Tacked on the engine bars:
    These are low and wide to clear the engine that cannot be named.
    Also tacked in the main door diagonals, dashboard bar and upper screen/roof bar:
    Lots done and lots more to do before I can fire up the TIG again.....
     
    bengeltiger likes this.
  28. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    I was going to make my own pedal box and pedals, but this came up very cheap:

    It was covered in, what I assumed was corrosion, but turned out to be congealed paint. Obviously it will have to come apart for detailing and cleaning. The only downside (if there is a downside) is that I'm going to have to make a matching clutch pedal and mount....
     
  29. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    A very frustrating weekend on the car. I got some bars fitted to the 'funny car' style cage, but a small miscalculation meant I couldn't get on to where I wanted to be.

    So I decided to fut the front shock-mount uprights. Got one in place:

    And then the bloody MIG wire ran out!
     
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