I got a few brake parts today, so it's going back together. The fronts seem to be ok, I had to grind a bit off the tops of both new wheel cylinders to get them to fit. And the new wheel seals don't fit, they're loose in the hub. I did some more looking, all the catalogs say it takes a size that's too small. No interchange on the part number from the old seals, but I measured and found a replacement number that is no longer available, but there are some NORS on ebay, so I ordered a pair. They're felt seals, good old fashioned stuff. I'll put the new seals in one of these days, but I put the old ones back for now, which should last forever. The rears, looks like the last guy put the springs that old the bottoms of the shoes together, in backwards. They were dragging on the adjusters, and I think they were not adjusting. It had very little pedal movement, and the shoes had lots of embedded dust on them, like they weren't being applied. perhaps the pistons in the wheel cylinders weren't moving? the fronts were working, but it's hard to tell if rear brakes aren't working. Anyways, I got one back together with new wheel cylinder and moved the spring to the other of the adjuster so it's not in the way. Also new inner seal, and lubed the bearing. before picture I'll work on the other side tomorrow.
It's all back together, and driving again. The exhaust is the next big thing it needs. I made an appt with a local shop to bend up some tubes and put a new muffler in next week, we'll see how that goes. The engine is running better, although it does 0-60 in "eventually, maybe". I got the idle speed adjusted down, it idles at 500 in gear. Greased the speedometer cable and oiled the fitting on the back, and it operates smoothly and accurately. Fixed the tag light. Even knocked out the big dent in the grill, although the fender is still back a bit where it's supposed to meet the hood at the corner. after and before
I played with the heater last night, it might almost be working, sort of. Needs more work, though. I connected heater hoses, bypassing the rusted away water valve. It took some effort to get the hoses on, because a previous owner had disconnected the hoses, and plugged it at the engine, instead of just bypassing it with a single hose. I ended up having to remove the water outlet to get out a stuck brass 3/8-1/2" adapter, so I could screw in a hose fitting. I still need to put the blower motor back in, and wire it, as the wiring was messed up also. But the reason for being concerned about heat is that there's a LeMons Rally in Pennsylvania in February. Which is a really stupid thing to consider going to, especially when we'll be in the middle of building the robot at the high school.....and besides, it gets cold up there. The rally starts in Scranton, and my experience with Scranton in January and February is that it's cold! I got to go TDY to Tobyhanna Army Depot when I first worked for the Army, in 1984. Stayed in a cabin in the Poconos, and drove the rental Fairmont to the Depot every day for six weeks of training on some fancy electronic equipment. I remember it being really cold every morning, and taking about half an hour to get ready to hit the road...getting the car warmed up, getting the snow off it, maybe finding the driveway again, stuff like that. So....if I decide to take that trip, this car needs to be pretty darn reliable. I know they were built to deal with year round use in NYC, Chicago, etc, so it should be doable.
heh...not quite! but I did put the heater blower motor back in, and got it wired up, and it works. Probably won't add any HP. I do still have a blower intake for a big block, but no blower or drive.
That underside looks all kinds of stout. Stout enough to handle that blown big block. And your blower intake even has a thermostat provision. I spent today figuring out how to mount and route the remote thermostat. I think a blown taxi would be a hit and drag and drives. Go for it.
I did a quicky repair on the exhaust where the pipe was missing about half an inch a couple feet before the muffler. I just wrapped some 22 gauge steel around it and clamped it in place...it's still noisy, but not nearly as bad. It doesn't rattle now. I went for a longer test drive, all the way to Bisbee. Made it there just fine, then going up the long grade to the Mule Tunnel, I almost made it to the top of the hill (which is just past the end of the tunnel), and the car died. I pulled the fuel filter, it had a lot of brown crap in it, so I put in a new filter. Tried it, and it didn't get far and died again. I figured maybe the pickup line in the tank was plugged? so I pulled the line off the tank, put a piece of rubber hose on the fitting and blew into it, and a little fuel dribbled out when I removed the hose. So I connected it up, and it started and kept going. For about ten miles. Then I pulled the filter out, and blew the crap out of it, and put it back in, and made it the rest of the way home. I did get another spare filter, and the two dirty ones can usually be blown out and used again for a while. Normal stuff with old cars. And you get a little video today. From the beginning of the trip.
Sounded pretty smooth. Is it cool down there? I'd guess beside the fuel system, cooling is the next possible strander?
cool out today, perhaps 60 degrees. The cooling system is doing fine for now, but it's not very hot out, and the radiator hasn't exploded yet. It's missing the side straps that hold it together, and it appears to be original. So I probably should replace it on general principles.
The Jalopy Journal
