But there ARE two somewhat hidden vertical bolts, and you will also have to do a bit of persuading. Be aware that the crank isn't drilled for a dampener pulleronertool, and you will have to beat the dampener back on in violation of good prctice if you don't have the special tool that no one on this planet has. Should work fine if you are sensible and the rubber is half decent, but there is risk.
HA HA. Bruce you're right. you'll know soon enough if the rubber on the damper is bad with a few misplaced bloew from a mallet. I made an installer out of a block of wood that I cut a notch in the shape of a "Y' to fit the center of the damper. It dose'nt slip & it keeps the mallet blows on the center of the dampner. Alot of the lift trucks at work have 250's & 151's so I've used it a few times. Billy
I actually drilled&tapped the front of my 230 crank, drilling first through a block of steel with a proper hole through it and then enlarging and tapping to the small block spec--not trustworthy enough that I would run the thing with an SBC bolt in there, but it was plenty straight to use a normal SBC type tool for installation. Piece of trivia, found in a book on the history of the SBC: Engines through the first year or two of 350's did not have the balancer bolt (I have an original '69 350 without one, as a datum point). There were crank failures at the frontmost throw in service, and the bolt is there as the engineering fix for that--its role is as a stiffener/stabilizer for the crank, not directly as a dampener retainer! I suppose it both contributes to stiffness by putting the area under compression and increases the unity of dampener hub and crank, but details weren't explained.
The Jalopy Journal
