I have read tons on here about Chevy's small block 327. If you believe everything you read they can produce huge horse power and torque. But based on my memory Chevy struggled to get 375 which is pretty good for stock. Now I have installed a 1969 327 in my little hot rod. Used a stock crank and rods. Installed flat tops, Comp cam (495 lift, 282 - 236 duration), roller rockers and screw in studs on 461 heads with 2.02 valves. Topped it off with an Offenhauser 3 duce setup and ceramic hugger headers. It's all balanced and blue printed and runs pretty good. I did put a 700 R4 behind it for now with plans to rebuild the Muncie I picked up, sometime in the future. It's no street beast but seem to get me around town. My question is, to the best of my memory, back in the day (mid to late 60's) those little small blocks use to rev up really quick. I'm not talking about the giant killer 302 but just the 327. The one I have just doesn't seem to rev like that and I was wondering if it could be because of the 700 R4. Maybe the torque converter holds it back in some way compared to a clutch and 4 speed like I remember. Any thoughts?
That should run pretty good, have you messed with the distributor curve and timing? Not enough mechanical advance coming in or not soon enough can make them seem lazy.
I haven't, and I didn't go with new electronics. That might have something to do with it. Just wanted it really old school so i stuck with points..... so i should give it a little advanced? I give it a try...
I would start at 32 or 34 total but more importantly see how much mechanical is coming in and by how many rpm I would say ballpark you would want about 22* of mechanical advance coming in by 2500 or so so if you had 10 initial at 2500 you would have 32* total you can convert the old style dizzy easily to electronic
Just re builder flat tops will not work well with that cam & head combo. The 365 - 375 HP had a dome piston to make that much cam work. If you had 2 valve relief flat tops and decked the block to get the pistons to .010 down from deck it would be a bunch closer. Keep the carb at 650 cfm max & duel plane intake. I would change cams. Van
Anything that came with a solid lifter 327 had gears in the 3.73-4.11 range, which was part of the reason they wound up fast.
16-18 degrees initial on timing, 36 to 38 by 3000 rpm. Are you using a stock stall speed torque convertor? Gears?
"Timing is everything." That's why I laugh at guys that do it by ear. "Been doing it that way my whole life." You can bolt all the go fast goodies you want on a motor, but if you don't bother to tune it why bother?
I am sure I will be scoffed at for these comments but, I have never been called the sharpest crayola in the box. To me the block hugger headers are very restrictive, are they the small size collector, under 3". I also agree with your ***umption that the 700 is robbing power. Real cars have three pedals. The three twos are cool but, probably not what will optimize the performance that you are striving for in a 327, but they are cool. All the advantage of the 327 is at the upper end of the RPM range. Your 700 R4 is probably not able take advantage of the power over 5,000 RPM with in the upper range of the power curve. Just my opinion of slush boxes in general except those specifically built for the strip. In my unedumicated mind quick rev's also have to do with bearing tolerances. I believe the older they get the better it rev's. My theory is it's getting looser so to speak. Okay I am ready for my beating.
No beating here. You're not too far off the mark. But as said before, get the timing and gear ratio right.
327s are my favorite engine!!! The one that is in my roadster is .40 over with keith black flat tops with one valve relief...i decked the block so the pistons were .001 in the hole to keep the compression as high as i could to still run on 93 well...I used cast stock 2.02 heads and a solid Howards .510 cam. I did not run multi carbs because the performance on these engine...most especially on the street suffer. I used an old Edelbrock c3bx intake and a Holley 600... I also used an old Mallopy YL dual point distributor... I do have a 2500 converter and 4.11 gears though...This engine screams!!! Definately need gears and the advance set right! Good luck!
timming is a big factor...hows the valves springs ?? are they the right ones for the cam ??....then stall of the converter and gears will factor your out come
The car has 373 gear and 2500 stall. The springs are what Comp suggested, Z28's. Yes, the plan is to toss the 700 and install the Muncie but for me its gonna take a little time. Need to rebuild the ****** and fab a bunch to get the hyd clutch/brake ***embly installed. I may have misslead you guys in that i am not talking about performance off the line. I mean throttle response just sitting and reving the engine. My memory was that you could just reach over and pop the throttle on the carbs and the engine would respond really quick. My friend has a 383 stroker that sounds like a beast when he does that and what i remembered was the 327's back in the day would do the same. The only thing different was the 700 R4 and torque converter verus the clutch setup. I agree that i could give it more advanced timing and seems logical that the response would be better.
I have a "63 327, HEI,comp cam, vette intake with eldebrock carb, 1.92 camel back heads, .40 over speed pro flat pistons etc. that wouldn't run right when I set timing. A neighbor from Kewee land was a master mechanic and told me to try setting timing by vacuum at close to 20 at about 2,00 rpm. It works great now--easy to see if it helps
I'll echo the others, your timing and advance curve are off. The trans and torque converter have nothing to do with your lack of off idle response.
My 327 in an Impala smoked several 302 Camaros back in the time. Now those guys were really pissed. Come Monday, they went right back to Chevrolet and ordered service package cam updates, etc.
OK, 327 time again. I know, old thread, but still..............that's a pretty good tale right there. Anybody got some 327 stories that are actually believable.
Performance and 700R4 is an oxy***** in the first place. The thing stopping that 327 from revving in neutral is timing. My 63 Impala 327 300 HP original was .060 over, domed forged TRW pistons, Comp Cam, lifters and valve springs, 202 fuelie heads, and a 670 CFM Holley and was a bear with a M21 four speed and a 373 Posi rear. Gary
I know where there is a 63 chevy with a 327 two bbl that can yank both front wheels 4 feet high! Sounds like a tall tail. But its a C60 truck with a knuckle boom loader on the back. a bit overbalanced to the rear. and the owners teen grandson beats the heck out of it. He has twisted driveshafts and broke U joints ect. Likely He would have blown the engine except its governored.
We put together more than a few junkyard 307s in our stock cars (claimer cl***) and of course being geared for the track they would rev fast, also come down fast once we were off the gas. I tried to hold mine below 6500 so it would last a while. But gearing is essential for performance.
This was mine. .030 bored, 11:1 TRW's, 327-350 hp hyd. Cam w/.447 lift, double hump heads, Torker, 650 Holley, M21 4 speed and 4.56 gears. It came alive at around 4500 rpm. 7500 is where I shifted. That's where the power was, in the upper range. These engines in the '66 Nova earned the street cred for the 327.
My cam is a 268/276 Lunati with a .489/.504 lift. Range is 1900-6200 RPMS. I would have been better off with one that came in a little later, like at 2500 to 3000. I'm shifting at 5000 when I'm exercising the car. That '57 must have been a screamer.
327 in the 57. Domed Pistons, L79 cam, 202 heads, pink rods, steel crank, etc. I have 3 Rochester 2gcs. 3.70 gear. This car rips! All my buddies tell me to put a 650 double pumper and it will make more power. Sent from my E6810 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Oh yeah, I run a vintage Mallory dual point. I had the engine Dyno tuned a few years ago, made a BIG difference. Sent from my E6810 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have a 327/300 hp All Stock except for the Dist which is the L88 Optional dual point/tack drive/needle bearing dist. And it Rev's Great, the Dist has a 12 deg. in it so I set the Timing on the Damper at 14 which gives me a total of 38. It has the AFB Carb on it and Exhaust pipes that Exit in the Back of the engine. Just my 3.5 cents Live Learn & Die A Fool
WEll, I had a 301 that had unreal throttle response, It had an aluminum flywheel. After I figured out it was a dog trying to pull the car I sold the flywheel .Sure was cool in the drive in parking lot though.
I'm running A 66 327 .030 over TRW forged dome pistons ,461 2.02 1.60 heads voodoo cam 468 in 489 ex in my 54 bel air with a super t10,8.5 nova rear end. It is A very strong little motor ,327's was one of the best motors Chevrolet made.
The Jalopy Journal
