I posted this on the AD forum and have only had a couple of responses. My question is, Can I take the rear axle from my 1952 chevy 3100 truck (which is a torque tube setup) and switch the diff out with a 1955 1st series 3100 pick up (which is an open rear). Can it be as easy as just unbolting the diff off the front of them and swaping the 55 into the 52 axle? I would like to do a t5 conversion, hence the need for an open driveshaft Thanks in advance for the help
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take some measurements,if it looks like it might work try it. thats what hot rodding is all about, take this from that and that from this.
Your talking about a Chevrolet. You can interchange Chevy parts with ease. That's the beauty of it. As for the 55 1st series, it's the same truck as the fifty two so you should have no trouble switching rear axles.
Yep it will work. Not a lot of good gear selection. A 80s big blazer rear will do better as its six lug and not real hard to swap. super cheap also.
I used a third from a late 50's chevy car. You will need to weld the spring perches to keep them from rotating. Not the greatest way to do it but it's all I had and I was young. Since, I have a 90's camaro 10 bolt rear end waiting to go in. Good Luck. Mike
Big Mike thanks for your reply. Did you keep the shackles as well or did you do away with them. Also what was the ratio you ended up with. I am guessing that a car will be better than the 3.90 truck diff.
alright so I was looking at my differential and the third member bolts off. So like everyone said, it is a chevy, parts will be interchangeable. Other than early to mid chevy cars and trucks, what else do you think could be a donor where the third member could just be swapped out? The ideal would be to get a mid 3 gear ratio like a 3.55. Thanks for all the help thus far
alright so I was looking at my differential and the third member bolts off. So like everyone said, it is a chevy, parts will be interchangeable. Other than early to mid chevy cars and trucks, what else do you think could be a donor where the third member could just be swapped out? The ideal would be to get a mid 3 gear ratio like a 3.55. Thanks for all the help thus far
when I switched to a sbc and auto trans, I pulled the torque tube out and tossed. I went to the local wrecking yard and bought a third which has factory limited slip and installed. I welded where the housing rotates on the springs and I was done. As I said, not the greatest thing to do, but it's held up for over 25 years. I now have a late model firebird rearend waiting to go in. Need to cut off all the mounting points and grind down.
What motor are you going to be running? If you are going to run a six or something fairly stock, I'm just thinking this because you are talking about running the T-5, use either a 8" or 9" Ford if you want something with a removable pumpkin.
Thanks again for the replies. I am keeping the 235 straight six. And like i said i would like to keep the 6 lug setup so that i don't have to buy new rims and replace the newly rebuilt brakes on my current rear. BIGMIKE I think i am going to try and do your setup. Looks like the best option for cost and time. Now all I have to do is locate a third member.
A T*yota 4x4 might also work. They're reasonabe $$$, and the correct bolt pattern. Might have to swap out the wheel studs though.
Hey, I'm trying to do this same procedure with my 54 jimmy 1/2 ton. Did you ever find a 3rd member that worked out? Thanks!
The torque tube is part of the suspension in that truck. The rear is mounted on pivots at the springs. . If you try to just change the center housing to an open type the rear will flop around. Easiest to change out the whole rear. Have the axles drilled to keep your 6 lug wheels. If you find an axle to use with 5 on 4.75 bolt circle get 49-54 p***enger car drums for the front and it will give you regular chevy bolt pattern 5 lug wheels.
I've looked for the p***enger car route, but it seems like more trouble than finding a good truck rear end thats already a 6 bolt. Although, i've been coming up short in my area. I could always go the wheel adapter route too. Seems like most people that just do the carrier swap weld the rear axle to keep it from rotating. Thanks for the info. Maybe the OP can chime in on his swap. I know this is a really old thread.
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