chevy II 153 four cylinder

You notice in the add they ge the same 140 as the earlier engine but mention running a higher compression ratio ?
My question is if the old engine did as well and did it with lower compression I'm wondering if the RPM is the same at the 140 or the torque is way better on the new one down low or some were else ?
If the head is so much better and its got more compression it should be a 150 HP not a 140 HP HMMMMM

If it makes 140 through marine intake and exhaust is like to know what it does on a dyno with a pair of side drafts and a good header its got to be better .

 

Yes, I'd like to see that dyno run. How much fun would a 140 hp roadster be with w 4 banger that weighs about 1/2 of what a flathead does? I'm expecting closer to 175 from my 153 if I ever get it together.

 

I have one that is free for pick up along with a 66 Chevy ll 10 bolt that both came out of a 66 Chevy ll Near Columbus Ohio

 

Count those bolts again just in case it's a ChevyII 12 bolt.
It's not, otherwise you would have said "holy f#@k look what I found".

 

Wish you were closer. Or I was.

 

@Six Ball shit have you ever seen the back of your shed? Ohio just might be back there lol

 

heck , i wish i was closer or vise versa

i would so pick that up from you

but shipping it would kill me as i am down south

 

Tim, Pretty sure it's not. Idaho is in the back somewhere. Ohio would be out on the chicken house end to the right. There are 2 more if these blocks in there though along with a few heads & cranks.......

 

If it were a narrow(Chevyll) rear 12 bolt it would be in the attic not for sale!

 

I just picked up a Mercruiser yesterday and wonder if any of the 153 or 181 engines had an actual harmonic balancer? Behind the belt pulley on the crank it appears to only have a flange to bolt the pulley....no rubber cushioned harmonic balancer. Is that normal?

Lynn

 

This is what I’ve got. Maybe it’s part of that furthest back pulley section?

 

There may be some difference with the boat motors but the 153 in car only had a hub to bolt the pulley to. The 181 had a dampener. These are not going to run smooth like a 6 or 8.

 

Thanks. It turns out the engine I bought is a 153 with a 3 7/8" bore, not a 181 as it was suggested by the seller, but I'm OK with that. I pulled the head to check the bore and based on the feel of the very slight ring groove that I'll just put in a new set of rings and call it a day. I'll pull the engine the rest of the way down though to check bearings and will probably install a mild "street" cam when going back together. The pistons are about .030" in the hole and it had a steel shim head gasket. If I can't get another thin steel gasket it'll get a coat of Permatex copper spray and go back together. It worked out OK all year with the 305 Chevy in my FED, so it should be OK in the 153 as well.

On the harmonic balancer question, mine is just a simple hub as Six Ball suggested I would likely find.

Thanks.

Lynn

 

I've got a 153 block that had a SBC cylinder head conversion started. The block was welded up to accomodate the 5 head bolt pattern. It cracked to a couple of head bolt holes. Probably should have been done with silicon bronze and the block should have been preheated.

Not a project I'll ever get to.

I do have a set of Jahn's pistons (.030 over?) and a brand new Isky cam. (Specs are long lost, but mild street hydraulic). IIRC the crank is .040" under. Believe I have the bearings for it.
VERY CHEAP!
Message me if interested.

 

If anyone has a stock 153 car intake manifold around I'm curious what the bore is in the manifold for the carburetor. Also, what is the center-to-center distance of the two bolts/studs for mounting the stock 1 barrel? I'd measure myself but I didn't get an intake/exhaust manifold with the 153 I just bought.

Thanks, in advance.

Lynn

 

I can look tonight

 

Somewhere around 1985 the marine industry was ordered to taste engine power at the prop not the crank , dropped all the ratings 15%-20% , most of the early 153" motors were 90 HP , some 110 , the later 181" motors were 120-140 . Friend in HS had a Chevy II with a 4- banger / powerglide , took 2 city blocks to get it to shift ! LOL

 

I would also be curious about the same 2 dimensions on a manifold known to have come on a 292 Chevy 6. Thanks again if someone can educate me.

Lynn

 

The powerglide was the mistake. I had a '62 (probably the lightest) with a 4 banger and a stick and felt it had a good power to weight ratio.

Charlie Stephens

 

I can do that tomorrow.

The 153 (2.5) Mercrusers were rated at 120 hp. Prop Or wheel? I believe the two carb was rated a 130. The 181 (3.0) was 140 hp.

 

I can not get to the 292 that still has the stock manifold but they are the same as 230-250. 230,250,& 292 all share the same heads & manifolds with some 292s having a larger flange on the exhaust manifold.

 

'62-'64 mercruiser 153 were 110

 

Does anyone know the combustion chamber CC's of any of the heads available? It seems the 181 would be larger than a 153? I did a bit of searching and didn't find a source for a 153 header flange. I think I might prefer one that includes the openings for the intake ports as well as the exhausts.

Lynn

 

Same as an inline 6 just lop the end off

 

Somewhere in this thread someone shortened a 6 cylinder intake to work on a 153/181. With that in mind, then it stands to reason that a 194-292 6 cylinder header set could be shortened and used on a 153 by removing one section of one header where the pipes are "paired", correct?

Lynn

 

@Six Ball and @justabeater37 cut down offy intake manifolds

 

Pretty easy to cut down a 3x1 six intake or use flange sets for 4 or 6 both intake or exhaust. You may have to fiddle with bolt/stud holes. There are usually some on eBay.

 

Just in case some are watching this thread but not checking the "Wanted" ads, I am looking for numerous things for the 153 Chevy II/Mercruiser that I'm freshening and plan to put in my Model A Tudor project car. If you have any un-needed parts for a 153 I'd be happy to hear from you. Here's a link to the "Wanted" ad here on the HAMB: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/153-chevy-4-cylinder-parts.1307992/

Thanks, in advance.

Lynn Winter
(573) 286-3335 Cell (voice, text and photos)

 

OK...I've flip-flopped a few times in past weeks about what to put in the '31 Ford Tudor sedan I bought a few months ago but I am probably at least 80% certain now that it will be the 153/120HP Chevy II/Mercruiser engine I bought a couple weeks ago. The block and head are now at a machine shop for block decking, head surfacing and valve/seat grinding. So, now I'm turning to thoughts of transmission and rearend.

The Mercruiser engine had a flywheel on it that appears to be one carried over from automotive use, but I'm trying to determine a pressure plate and clutch disc combo that will work with a T5 transmission I have. My plan for a rearend is to convert the Model A rearend to open driveshaft and hydraulic brakes. The stock 3.78 Model a ring and pinion will work out very well with the T5 gearing.

My clutch question regards matching the existing pressure plate configuration and bolt pattern, and the appropriate diameter clutch disc with a spline count to match the 1" -14spline T5 input shaft. Below is a photo with various dimensions but in case they're hard to make out in the photo, here are the measurements:

Ring Gear Diameter - 12 7/8"
153 Tooth Ring Gear
Holes that appear to be for mounting pressure plate - 10 5/8" (not micrometer accuracy)
Diameter for maximum clutch disc OD - 9 1/2"
Recess diameter for flywheel bolts and clutch hub - 5 13/16"
Face of flywheel for clutch disc is recessed 1/8" from surface where pressure plate mounts.

I have a 151 "Iron Duke" (not the 153) in my Model A Coupe and like it just fine. That engine has the "Metric" bellhousing pattern and I just used the clutch assembly that was in the S-10 donor truck. Looking for parts for this clutch I saw that the S-10 clutch disc must be a 9 1/8" OD but I haven't found any info on pressure plate mounting bolt pattern diameter. Also curious about the recessed clutch friction surface in this flywheel. I can't say I remember that on my "Iron Duke" S-10 flywheel.

Also, from the face of the T5 case to the tip of the input shaft is about 7 1/8". A "normal" Chevy bellhousing bolt pattern bellhousing I have is only about 6 3/8" deep. Can that bellhousing and the T5 be mated or will I have to find a different (thicker) bellhousing or use some sort of spacer between the bellhousing and transmission?

Thanks in advance for any input you might have to offer.

Lynn

 

A guy gave me 4 Corvair 1 BBL carbs the other day and I was t looking at my 4cylnder and thinking hmmmmmmm .

Trying to find a non cracked 2piece rear main seal 3.0 block still .