at the risk of sounding ****, i will ask my question. on my '51 chevy 216 (car), the oil pan gasket is all ****ted up, crushed, and generally hanging out almost all the way around, was like that when i bought it. i don't want that to happen again, so i need to know the oil pan bolt torque specs for when i replace it. also, i don't think so, but is there any odd sequence for tighteneing the oil pan bolts (from the center out, etc.) or does that not really matter? thanks for putting up with my being ****. it's tough having o.c.d. tred.
I Dont Have An Answer For This, But Having Just (somewhat) Rebuilt My First Motor, And It Being A 216, Im Going To Pay Attention To This Thread, And Say That We Just Tightened Em Up As Best We Could...maybe We're On The Opposite End Of The Ocd/****-about-**** Spectrum.
Here's the instructions from the shop manual.. (these are posted online in their entirety at this link http://chevy.tocmp.com/) The specific instructions you are seeking are under item #8. http://chevy.tocmp.com/1949_53shop/06engine/6_021.HTM Stacey
Couple of other **** questions to tag onto this about Chevy sixes if you don't mind, before this thread sinks into oblivion. 1) The abandoned 235 engine rebuild I acquired has an aluminium cam gear. Conventional wisdom says these need heating before pressing on. The builder of this engine obviously decided to club it home with his favourite tool. My question:- is it best to leave on now it's there, or should I press it off and start again? Will it work loose? I don't have anything to replace it with if it goes horribly wrong... 2) The conrods only had plain nuts on. Should I have a set of pressed steel lock nuts holding 'em in place? Cheers, Phil
is the cam gear on all the way? is the retainer on there with proper end play? then leave it alone... ifyou try to press off the gear, you need to make a tool to support the retainer, as it's cast and will snap if you load it unevently. The tool need be nothing more complicated than a piece of tubing or pipe with the inside diameter just a hair bigger than the front cam journal. Having a lathe will help in making this tool. There are billions of engines running for hundreds of thousands of miles with no lock nuts on the rod nuts, all you need to do is torque them to spec.
Cheers for that. Never been inside one of these, and my 1951 workshop manual shows the lash nuts. Guess I'll leave the cam gear alone then, I've enough problems since I found a crack in the bore tonight. Oh well, time to strip the spare block.
MONKEYBIKER: You should sweet talk one of the guys who brings containerl oads of stuff over from here to there to let you shove a 235 in one of their shipments (pay them for the service of course) as you can find running decent 235's over here for pretty damn cheap or free. I just missed a free 235 + ****** from a guy around the corner from me, good running motor and ****** pulled to drop a SBC in the truck.
Yep - that's how I got this one! All new parts inside it - guess they missed the crack in the bore whilst they were hammering the cam gear on... But cheers for that - kicking myself for missing the oversize pistons on eBay for $30 now!
The Jalopy Journal
