Be a neat thing to develop a cast aluminum pan for these. I've got a Chevy II car 153 my Dad put in our CJ5 many years ago and I'm replacing it with 120hp Mercruiser 153. The car 153 had water in the oil and oil in the water, so I'm curious if it has a bad head gasket or a crack somewhere. Had to swap pans and oil pickups. Got a new repro exhaust manifold from Rock Auto. The original exhaust manifold was corroded and had small cracks. I've got another core 153 car engine and and another 153 Mercruiser with a hairline crack in the block. Also have a bare 153 block, so plenty of extra parts to built another one if the Mercruiser I'm installing doesn't work out. I noticed some small differences in the 153 passenger car head and the 153 120hp Mercruiser head.....the center exhaust ports are cast slightly different as they exit, but perfectly compatible with the car manifold.
I have been able to buy a center sump pan. Application unknown but seeing the color of its paint, I believe it’s an OMC marine application. I’m using it for mock-up right now but will try to get a picture soon. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Does anyone have any links to get some engine specs or measurements? I have a nice stock bore 181, would like to put a set of 4" TRW 327 flat tops in it, with 5.7" H beam Eagle rods that were in one of my 250 Chevs. Will this work? I can not find any spec stuff... Thanks! -Shiny
If it worked in the 250 it seems like it would work in a 153. I think the 181 has a longer stroke even though the block is more or less the same save for bore size. hopefully someone chimes in
The 250 was a 3.875" bore with 3.53" stroke, The 181 is a 4" bore with 3.6" stroke, 153 is 3.875" bore with 3.25" stroke
153 and 181 rod lengths are the same length 5.7 the bearing is 2" and 2.10" as noted above. The rods are identical to small block rods except the small block is narrower from being machined so two can sit side by side. The use the same bearing as do the sixes. I'm not sure about 250s. but I think they are the same rod length and different stroke was handled by piston pin height. In my 153 with a 181 crank & 181 rods Ross forged 250 pistons stick about .020" out the top. These pistons came from 12 Bolt Tom and I think were made a bit taller than regular 250 pistons. It all worked perfect with published specs but not when the pieces were assembled. If your rods are 5.7" it will probably work But if they a 6" maybe not. Funny things happen with numbers. Sometimes things just don't add up.
It should be pretty easy to convert a small block Chevy or shorten a six of the same Chevy family, 194,230, 250 292
My plans are coming together with all you guy's help. I'm waiting on delivery of a 181 block so the "real" engine can go together. In the meantime, since I have a 153, I'm using it for mock-up. Plans call for a quality rebuild using flat top Sealed Power pistons, Isky hyd cam, balanced, aluminum cam gear. I have a 181 marine head that has been ported, modified for screw-in studs, stock 1.94/1.60 valves, hardened seats etc.. I may not use the valve cover in the pics but go with a 140 mercruiser aluminum valve cover and side cover. The header is one that came with the 153 and will need some small amount of redo for steering shaft clearance. Vac advance chevy distributor with electronic module. Haven't fully decided on what I'm going to do with carb but am considering modifying a stock ChevyII intake to accept a 325 Holley 2 barrel. I already have a couple of 'transition' plates to allow me to mate this manifold to the 8 port head. The manifold itself will take some modification to the carb mount and I'll need to do an adapter that matches the carb base. All this will run thru a S-10 5 speed to a quick-change reared.
It’s a roadster on 32 rails. The difference is in the wheelbase between Model A and 32 Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thank you. Car had a 327 before. Wanted something different this time around. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Long and winding thread, but lots of great information. I'm building a Chevy II to go midget racing indoors. Fontana head, Arias block, (also have a Ford Motorsport block and Fontana head to build #2, it was blown up much worse than Arias block). Starting to run into issues for water pump options, atleast cam driven water pumps, have parts for a EVM marine pump, making new parts will likely get expensive for vintage pump. Do any of you guys have cam driven pump setups that could help me? (3 stage dry sump oil pump will be belt driven) Thanks,
I have quite a few of the 181 marine engines and blocks that were used in midgets. I also have a couple of vintage midgets with those engines. I guess the front of your block is the same as the Mercury? Do you have a after market front cover that will accept a cam driven water pump? THANX RICH
Yes I have (EVM)front covers that would accept cam driven fuel/water pumps. I will probably end up using a KSE water pump (will have to modify and find a straight vane impeller for the reverse rotation), spending 400+ on making one off parts for an old pump doesn't sound smart in long run as the KSE would be common. (We run them on our sprint cars without issue for years) I believe the front of the block is based on the 153, but I haven't seen a 181 up close to compare. I can try and take some photos when I'm in the shop this weekend.
The last new 4 cyl water pump I bought was from Ron's Fuel Injection service in Tuscon AZ Ph 520 573 6890 http://ronsfuel.com/contact.cfm That was years ago but he may still have something that will work. Yes the 181 block is the same as the 153.in the area where the front cover bolts on. Also if I remember correctly you can't just bolt on a V8 pump and have it work. The impeller may be what you need to change, I don't remember for sure!! THANX RICH
Yes the 153 cam rotation is opposite that of a V8, we have to be careful on fuel and power steering pumps as well getting "reverse" rotation. As interesting side note this is an old Fontana flyer I had found.
Thought these photos may be interesting to you guys, the Ford block is very similar to the Arais the lifter cover plate being the biggest difference I've found. It kind of went boom in it's last life, we'll rebuild it some day.
My 181 (not pictured) is about ready for final assembly. Machining, trial fit of new pistons, cam to check valve clearances etc. accomplished. Next is to send out the rotating bits for balance. Except for final grinding etc. I’ve finished my intake manifold and the modifications to my header. I needed clearance for both steering shaft and alternator. The show goes on. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Bill, That looks like a nice bit of kit you've got there. I'm glad everything is coming together for you. THANX RICH
Thank you Rich. You’ve been really helpful and I appreciate it. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Little more progress on mine. Next steps finish oil pump bracket, and plumb. Then get the race car ready.
I have casting patterns to cast the FI intakes for the Duggan 8 port heads along with several raw castings. They look like they would fit the Fontana head.
Interesting! I think all the Fontana injections are Hilborn or Kinser, both mine measure 2-7/16" butterflies.
Scott, I have pictures that I probably got from you if you can't locate yours. There are at least 2 more threads about these engines on this site. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chevy-ii-153-four-cylinder.745583/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/4-cylinder-mercruiser-engined-cars.994010/
The Jalopy Journal
