Well, after months and months of saving and collecting parts, I finally got my '79 Chevy pickup lowered. I decided to get everything new to replace severely rusted and worn out parts. I had junkyard upper and lower A-arms powder coated, as well as lowered spindles and springs. All bearings, seals, bushings, rotors, calipers, etc, etc are all new. A friend that has done the work on these trucks suggested that we section the lower A-arms so that it would align correctly. While we were at it, we got rid of the bumpstops and the brackets that hold them. All in all I think the front end came down about 7 inches. I used 3 inch Bel-Tech spindles and 3 inch lowered Summit coil springs. Out back, we did the flip kit and a C-section. It came down alot, but not enough. I may end up bagging the rear, but that is another story. Anyway, the truck looks killer, BUT, I have a problem I hope you guys out there can help me on. The truck drives beautifully. The ride is pretty damn good for being so low, but the problem is when I have to turn. If I turn too sharply, the inner lip of the wheel rubs on the lower A-arm where the ball joint is. It rubs so bad that the truck almost comes to a stop and the noise it makes is terrible! You might say don't turn so sharp. Problem is, negotiating the turns from aisle to aisle in the parking lot at the supermarket is rough, or even making turns from one street to another. I have to cut the turns real wide and I'm certain if a cop sees me I'll get a ticket. I've tried to use spacers to push the wheels out a little, but it doesn't help much, and I'm not real comfortable with using them. A friend of mine suggested using some deeper reversed wheels, but before I go out and buy some more wheels, I'd like to know if it will work. I know that this truck is late model, but when I'm done with it, it will be very traditional--at least for a '79! I know there are a few guys out there that have done alot with these trucks and might be able to help--Rocky? Glenn? Anyone? Any help is appreciated. Thanks! E
Note where the contact is! Try 'rolling' the A-Arm w/some hammering. Also grindng the arm back and forth, alittle at a time. Check the amount of rub-age. Your steering stop was removed when you took out the bump stop. Also some light 'clearance grinding some of the wheel if possible. A 16-17" wheel should clear if you step up to bigger one's. Add a sway bar if you do not have one, it will really improve the ride. Lowered sway bar bracket's can be found at: www.earlyclassic.com
Look at most cars and you'll see a bolt going through the a arm that hits the spindle when the wheel is turned all the way. That's the steering stop. Find a place on one of the aarms that comes close to the spindle when the wheels turned. Drill a hole, stick a bolt in with a nut on each side of the a arm so you can adjust it out, then adjust it to where the spindle hits right before the wheel hits. You'll have almost as much steering without the noise.
I had the same problem. Removed the offending metal on the lower A Arm for clearance. It did not weaken the arm to matter. 200K miles later all is fine.
Og thats a common problem with those trucks. What happened is the dropped spindle acctualy put the lower control arm closer to the wheel. If I remember correctly those control arms roll out for strength. You could gusset on the inside of the arm and cut the rolled lip off. Another thing that would help would be to run wheels with less back spacing or even a larger diameter wheel. The last two are rather expensive options that you may not want to get into. After you have bagged the back you might want to think about going ahead and doing the front. Jason at Suicidedoors.com sells brackets for your model. Also Airride Technologies just last week released their kit complete with tubular control arms. Check with them mabey they solved this problem with their control arm design.
Thanks for all the responses guys. I've already did some grinding and hammer work on the A-arms and it hasn't helped. I'm afraid to grind too much and screw something up. I'm running stock steel 15 inch wheels. I was thinking of maybe running stock late 60's Olds Toronado wheels. I don't know if that would work or not, but it's a thought. Bigger wheels is not really an option--I want to run whitewalls. I have 215/70/15s on the front and the tire tops are real close to the fender splash guards. Anyone else?
If I'm not mistaken, the stocks are 15X6, not real sure though. I'll have to root around at the junkyard and check out some backspacings on wheels. Thanks.
Only option is larger diam wheels or wheels with less backspacing. Root cause of problem is the drop spindles, they move the ball joint to be closer to the wheel.
[ QUOTE ] I'm running stock steel 15 inch wheels. I was thinking of maybe running stock late 60's Olds Toronado wheels. I don't know if that would work or not, but it's a thought. [/ QUOTE ] Toronado wheels are even worse, they have a bunch of negative offset. There are different offset GM wheels out there, but I think the truck wheels are about as good as it gets for positive offset. parking is a pain with some trucks, my 59 chevy extended cab takes some planning ahead of time when approaching a parking lot.
look for something with about 3" backspacing. 3 1/2" will knock the weights off... my old coe had those spindles on it,that's how i know.
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