Looking for advice / pictures of what you guys may have done. Working with a '52 Chevy truck and will be doing a V8 swap. Have any of you kept the stock steering column? If so, do you have any input or pictures on how it was modified and what steering gear parts were used between the shaft and R&P set-up? Thanks!
you're also doing a front suspension swap? You can use the original column, you'll need to cut it off, and figure out a secure way to attach something to the shaft. Companies like Borgeson make neat stuff for this, such as U joints. You probably want to mill the end of the shaft to a D-D shape (flats on both sides). Then you'll need a bearing to keep the shaft centered, and a lock collar to keep the shaft from sliding up (there is a spring in the top of the column that keeps pressure on the upper ball bearing in some of these old truck columns).
Thanks squirrel! Yes we are planning a front suspension swap. I've had two posts deleted last night/today as I mentioned a particular swap. No idea why someone was deleting the threads. But, thank you for the outline of steps needed. Anyone happen to have any tech threads on this, or ever do it? Wondering what parts I can do at the house, or if any machine shop work is needed for certain portions. I'll take a cruise through the Borgeson site too.
search, it may take a while, but you should be able to find a few write ups. Threads usually get deleted because they are off topic. The newer the technology, the further it strays from the traditional foundation of this place.
Cut the outer sleeve off the column a few inches back. Use the bearing pictured to support the shaft after removal. grind the inner shaft down to a 3/4 DD. Install borgeson joint or flamin river your choice. You might have to use a piece of exhaust pipe as a bushing around the end of the outer sleeve. Yes I know it is pics of a car I think the truck has the same size tube and shaft.
so when i did mine i cut the column and steering shaft from the original box. i had a cylindrical piece of hard plastic about 3" long that would fit the ID of column that i used as a bushing to support the end of the shaft. i drilled a bore through it to match the steering shaft OD. on top i added a mounting plate and a gusset. the u-joints are double-d and i just made the flats with a grinder and file until they fit right. seems to work fine. i did this a few years ago and didn't want to spend much. maybe not the best solution but it works for me. also, i was able to shorten the column a few inches to move the steering wheel away from me.
Perfect! Thanks for the expertise. This type of feedback is what I am after, and I still consider this stuff hot rodding...and on topic! I'll be referring back to this when I get to that point. Even a quick Google search shows the bearing is a common ag bearing found anywhere. Thanks for the help guys....and for taking the time to dig up pictures. I like the idea that ben mentioned to about moving the column just a couple inches away from you. Right now it is very up close and personal!
people used to be skinnier. Not criticizing anyone, just explaining why the steering wheels seem to be in the way so much these days!
For the steering column jacket/tube. Just cut and tap it in followed by part 2 that Squirrel describes. https://www.nationalchevyassoc.com/1560
A split lock collar and wheelbarrow bearing from the hardware store can get the bottom of the column secured for under $20. Some careful grinding can turn that round shaft to double-d, or you can use a smooth-bore, weld-on joint. I have always used the Sawzall to cut through the steering box, just after the column tube goes into it. Then I pull up the steering wheel unto the cab, to get it clear, and then cut off about 4" from the tube. Here is an example. This is a Chevy passenger car, which has a taper, and a larger tube, but you get the idea.
The Jalopy Journal
