Customs Chipped a rear axle in my 41 ford

I have a new old stock axle if you need it.

 

Lapping the hub and axle works well, unless it's as rough as this one is. It's toast, needs another axle and quite likely another hub. Then 200-220 lb./ft. on the nut. Drive it for a bit, then check again, repeat a couple of times before installing the cotter pin. I tighten the ones on my '40 every year and usually get a little bit of movement on both nuts.

 

I'm Trying to get another axle and I definitely have a couple of good rear drums and hubs. And I gotta get some Gaskets and oil,But i'd like to have the parts before I tear it apart.

 

Though recently somebody found a pile of Columbia stuff. And I really like to get one of those in toss it in the car . At 60 miles an hour, I'm doing about 3 grand and it would be nice to knock it down a bit.

 

Man, that's a chunk of money and still doesn't fix my reactile problem. I'd rather go Columbia if I could find one complete and close by. But for now, I think I'll find a new axle shaft and swap it out when I have the time.

 

Thanks to enjenjoe I've got a new old stock axle coming , Then I gotta do the work, ugh.

 

Does anyone have any good books to read up on disassembling and reassembling the banjo rearend? I've taken the Bells off of a quick change before just to paint it but I put it all back together just as it was and I didn't have the axles out. I can't remember,was years ago. Do I need to take just one axle bell off? Or do I need to dis assemble both sides to get one axle out? This is on the driver's side.

 

The Ring gear and carrier comes out all in one piece including Both axles. As long as your not messing with the Bearings all you should have to do is change the offending axle, use the same color gasket and put everything back together as it was. Don't remove the Torque tube and your ring to pinion fit will remain the same. Now this is assuming all is well on the inside to start with.

 

Thanks, but do I need to take both Bells off? Or just the one side to get everything out.

 

If the broken axle is the left side you only need to remove that bell. You can slide the whole axle and differential out that side, once you remove the other side's hub too. As long as you use the same thickness paper shim/gasket on the left bell, it should go right back together fine.

If it was the right axle broke, you would have a bigger job.

 

Cool, thanks for the heads up. That's what I needed to know Gonna try and find a book on it anyways.

 

https://www.verntardel.com/store/p303/Ford_1932-48_Banjo_Differential_-_Service_and_Rebuilding_-_Book_#10.html

There's a bunch of posts on here about rebuilding also.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/early-ford-banjo-rear-end-rebuild.462776/

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-assembling-a-40-ford-rear-axle.61502/

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rebuild-of-a-banjo-axle.812569/

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-banjo-rebuild-first-one.981464/

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/banjo-breakage-band-aids.937588/

 

Thanks, I just bought that book. I've got a few of his other books on transmissions and steering boxes, but not the one on the rear end.

 

He put the key in there knowing , mechanics of that era would not tighten the nut sufficiently to grip the axle properly. So he added the key way for insurance.




Bones

 

I just got Vern tardels book in the mail today, and it's got a lot of good information, just waiting on the axle to show up.

 

Got the axle earlier today from enjenjoe and cleaned up the rust and greased it Up and put it in a bag until maybe Saturday.

 

How many splines on that axle?

 

I have to wait till tomorrow to check as it's at work.

 

Thanks for asking me what the tooth count was as I counted it this morning and it's 18 tooth turns out it's the wrong axle and I need a 16 tooth per the Vern tardel book.

 

Unless for some weird reason someone switched the other axle and the spider gears to pre-38 also.

 

Well I haven't taken my axle apart yet to verify that mine should be 16 spline.just want to have all the parts before I take it down

 

As posted earlier, BruceLancaster once wrote---

"On the rears, axle interchange MAY require also swapping the spider gears. There are two different tooth counts there. Pinions have two different spline counts, but adapter couplers are available. "

 

I'd rather not run any adapters or anything like that just get the correct Axle. if I have to, I'll buy a 16 spine so that way I've got one of each so 1 of them will work.

 

The ring and pinion you have will work with either axle spline count. They are the same, it’s just the spider gears that need to switch out to match the axle gear.

 

I understand what you're saying but the passenger side axle may be a 16 tooth and I don't have 2 of each axle to swap. Then I have to buy spider ears too.

 

I may have a used one, but I'm a little ways from you though. I'll check tomorrow if you need. There's an A swap in Chatsworth in early November. I just went past you on the grapevine last weekend from an A swap in Orcutt (from the 166 and 5).

 

Thanks, old timer. I just got a call from a guy that has a few of them, and hes gonna make sure it's the right spine and get back to me with the quote on shipping. If that doesn't go through, I'll Let you know.

 

No problem. Just make sure it the right tooth count and length.
https://hotrodworks.com/technical-information/rear-axle-measurements/
This post has a good article in it:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/banjo-rear-i-d-info-needed.962677/

 

Thanks for those links I wanted to know The exact length of the axle I needed.