I'm installing my door glass. As you roll the glass up, the top rear of the glass moves farther away from the glass run. When it gets to the top it is leaning about 3/16 of inch too far inward and misses the channel. Have you guys ran into this? The problem seems to be that the divider bar is actually leaning in more than the rear part of the door frame. In addition, since the B pillar was leaned forward during the chop, the rear part of the glass doesn't hit the channel until it is almost all the way up. Options? 1. Lean the rear of the window frame back more? I hate too, the fit looks really nice now, and it would probably throw the rest off. 2. Space the inside of the garnish away from the door, to allow the glass more room at the top - seems kinda cheesy. 3. Fab up some kind of "wedge" to direct the glass back into the groove when it gets to the top. 4. ?????? Opinions? Insights? Thanks, Rich
Did you tilt the tops of the doors towards the middle of the car when you chopped it? If so, did you also lean the glass run channels down in the door to the same angle? One way to help the rear of the glass that doesn't touch till too late is to make the pane taller, leaving a straight section of glass below the beltline. Like if you had left the glass at full height, but only trimmed that back edge for the slanted pillar. This will provide some stability in the tracks, rather than the short bit riding in the track caused by the slanted B pillar.
Yes. Yes. But the rear of the windows frame evidently doesn't lean in as much as the divider bar does. The pane is as tall as it can be, when rolled down fully, the top edge is level with the bottom of the opening. This only gives about two inches of straight glass at the back below the slant.
Rework the steel channel where it can be adjusted even more than stock angles allow...... then remove the stop at inner door [that the regulator bottoms out on currently].re install it 3-4" lower...... Then re cut the glass ,adding about 3-4" height-[taller] ,then the rear edges will have more "straight edged", glass =in= the channel when operating up and down and it then will support it throughout the whole distance .....unlike now.....
Hmmmm. Have you done this? I don't think that I can add 3-4 inches to the glass. At the bottom, with the channels pushed outward, the glass almost touches the inside of the outer door skin as it is.
Well...... If your glass is leaing IN too much at top would you not then be pulling that bottom of glass you describe -away- from the door skin at bottom-right? seems the rear of glass being unsupported is the issue to me.....just remember -glass don't bend.
If the glass is too far in toward the center of the car when all the way up, the bottom of the glass channel needs to be moved toward the center of the car. This will bring the top out away from the center of the car. The glass will pivot at about where the dew wipes are.