I'm fixing up rough spots in a cast brass piece for a windwing that I hope to chrome plate eventually. I know that silver solder can be chrome plated, and have been using jeweler's "Extra Easy" silver solder which is 56% silver and melts at 1145f degrees- I don't know what else is in it. But I'm out of that solder and it is not readily available locally. I noticed that the hardware store carries a silver solder for plumbing. It is made of tin, copper, bismuth, and silver, but I don't know the proportions. Melting temp is a much lower 420-460 degrees. http://www.oatey.com/products/coppe...-solder/silver-lead-free-plumbing-wire-solder Anybody know if this solder would be chrome plate-able?
It probably is, but you need to talk to the shop that will be doing the chroming before you do any prep work. Some shops may accept your piece with your prep work done for a lower cost, but some places will not do any work over the top of someone elses prep, and it'll end up costing you more because they'll have to undo what you did before they do their own work. A lot like bodywork, some painters won't paint over someone elses bodywork because they can't guarantee what's underneath was done right. I worked at a chrome shop for years and we had a few guys who would pre-prep parts who did a nice job according to our specs and got good deals that way, but we also had to undo prep work done by unknowns or amateurs which probably doubled the cost of the job vs. if they had just brought it in as-is.
I was thinking I might try Caswell plating at home on some small pieces including this one. The lower melting temp of the plumber's silver solder would make it easier to use, but obviously there is no point in that if chrome won't bind to it.
I used high build silver solder to fill a couple of deep holes in a grill shell and after it was chromed you couldn't see it. Remember, any good chrome shop triple plates, copper, nickel and then chrome, so the copper base will cover the silver. Talk to your plating shop, but I think you will be OK.
Typically, solder sticks to copper like magic. Almost all chrome plating starts with a coat of copper. It shouldn't come off, though it won't be as tough as chrome over steel. I don't see a problem as long as they don't over-buff the solder, but I wouldn't use the low-temp solder. 450F isn't that hot. You can soften it & tear it right off just from the friction of a buffing wheel.
I made the trunk emblem on my Lincoln from copper and soldered with low temp . It chromed fine. The chrome said that it is fine to us Jack
I have used this with success. No lead so it won't contaminate the plating solution. Consult your plater first. http://www.caswellplating.com/lead-free-solder-1-lb.html
It's best to have the old plating stripped first. A lot of guys get excited & grind the plating off where they need to repair it, then the plating shop has to strip the part and it can affect the repair. Some times it's best to pre-polish the part, the solder is softer & the buff will suck it out. If the part is pre-polished you can hand finish the repair with 320 or so and it will be ready to copper plate.
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