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Technical Clean up an old nailhead intake

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 57Buick, Apr 13, 2023.

  1. 57Buick
    Joined: Dec 2, 2013
    Posts: 164

    57Buick
    Member
    from Alabama

    What do y'all guys recommend to use for cleaning this ol intake ? I don't want to blast it so I have to use another method. It has rust down inside all the ports, although I still think it is useable. Any suggestions are appreciated!
    Troy
     

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    Deuces likes this.
  2. Glenn Thoreson
    Joined: Aug 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,017

    Glenn Thoreson
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    If you know the safety rules for using acid, dilute Muriatic acid is the best. Other options are Lime Away, Naval Jelly, straight Vinegar, Molasses (livestock grade). Block off the runners going from these ports, fill with solution and let soak a while. Shoving a plastic bristle bottle brush through the thing and scrubbing will speed up the process. The acid method will clean this up in an hour or less, depending on dilution rate. Neutralize with baking soda solution and rinse well using hot water. To protect from the flash rust that will appear when done, dry well with compressed air and immediately spay with WD40. Simple procedure.
     
  3. 57Buick
    Joined: Dec 2, 2013
    Posts: 164

    57Buick
    Member
    from Alabama

    So awesome !! Thank you
     
  4. 1952henry
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,579

    1952henry
    Member

    You can use electrolysis, but substitute powdered Lye for electrolyte . The lye will soften paint and cause it to slough, the the little electrons can go after rust. Lye is perfectly safe as long as you use common sense. If not, it will leave a mark. This may not get into ports well.

    Just another thought; Rust 911 will work, $70 for a gallon, but diluted per instructions nets you 16 gallons. Used it in water passages in a bare block. Cleaned rust off, bare cast iron was the result. Non acidic, so no worries about neutralizing.
     
  5. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,714

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    Degrease it 1st. Molasses is great for this job. Soak it and forget it for 5-7 days, when it comes out rubber gloves are in order. It'll be carbon black and that***** doesn't wash away very well. A hard garden hose works but a pressure wash takes it to new looking. Watch your corners and spray back. After a good wash anything to prevent flash is good til paint and install. If no pressure washer clean it with a liberal dose of Dawn and hot water, but the blackness, so don't forget the gloves. Dry it with a leaf blower or compressed air and it should look NOS.
     
  6. Strip it down to a bare manifold.
    Degrease it top and bottom with Easy-Off oven cleaner and pressure wash it good.
    Blow or air dry.
    Soak it in tub in a citric acid solution (1/2 cup to 2 1/2 gallons of water) and monitor it everyday until you can brush all the rust away (two days ought to do it). Use a brush inside and out.
    Pressure wash (watch out for flying black sludge) and scrub with a stiff brush.
    Soak it in a baking soda (1 1/2 cup to 201/2 gallons of water) to neutralize the acid.
    Wash with Dawn dish soap and brushes (inside and out).
    Blow dry (or use the wife's oven)
    Coat it with Gibbs Oil or equivalent until you are ready to paint.
    I prefer citric acid because it doesn't smell like vinegar, doesn't produce a gut-wrenching smelly sludge like molasses, and is safer than muriatic acid to handle (it's actually food grade, used in canning), and easily neutralized.
    Good luck!
     
  7. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,393

    indyjps
    Member

    I agree with all the steps above, compare the time spent to what the machine shop will charge to run it thru hot tank.

    Simple green, powerwash, phosphoric acid, bristle brush ports, dish soap wash, paint.
     
  8. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,897

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Of all the methods listed above, for jobs like this I like vinegar. It works well, not acidic enough to harm you or the part, is easy to neutralize and dispose of, and it's cheap. That manifold may take a few days, but will come out good as new.
     
  9. 364 4 barrel intake. That is a good find. I prefer citric acid and a bottle brush. Removing the brass vacuum fitting will require a little heat or it will snap off.
     
    '28phonebooth likes this.
  10. CSPIDY
    Joined: Nov 15, 2020
    Posts: 948

    CSPIDY
    Member

    I have a 30 gallon plastic garbage can full of rust 911 in my basement, I keep the lid on to prevent deterioration of the solution.

    I’ve done 16 inch 35 Ford wheels that were rusted real bad had them powder coated and run them on my 28 Tudor for 4 years with no rust.

    the key as mentioned above is getting it cleaned so what ever you use to remove the rust can do it’s job
     
    '28phonebooth and alanp561 like this.
  11. That is really not all that bad ,,,,,a good cleaning will go a long way .
    Go to the Dollar Store and buy a cheap can of oven cleaner,,,,,,then ,,,after it sits and soaks ,,,hose it off good .

    Then,,,,,,,go the other cleaning route with vinegar for a while .
    It should be very nice after that .

    Tommy
     
  12. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,449

    Squablow
    Member

    Does this one have that little stamped steel pan riveted to the underside? A friend of mine who was really into Buick engines would always pull those rivets out and inspect the underside of the intake under that pan, he said they would sometimes crack there, and also that pan was a trap for grease and dirt that was hard to clean off otherwise. It was a pain to get those rivets out, apparently you can buy new replacement rivets to put it back together with afterward. Not sure if that's really necessary, but I remember welding on the heads of a lot of those rivets to give something for a slide hammer to grab.
     
  13. 57Buick
    Joined: Dec 2, 2013
    Posts: 164

    57Buick
    Member
    from Alabama

    You guys have been so helpful. I really appreciate y'all's time and expertise in helping me out.
    Troy
     
    '28phonebooth likes this.
  14. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,504

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Electrolysis is largely line-of-sight. It may not give good results in ports.

    White vinegar is easiest, as you can just roll on down to the grocery store.

    Citric acid is a little stronger, and more effort to obtain. Depending on what is around you, you might need to order it.

    Those last two will do the rust removal job, and for cheap.
     
  15. Growing up we used a rose bud torch to clean iron intakes and blocks. Sometimes using oven cleaner first then heating after a through rinse.

    quick and easy.
    Burnt off the oil and carbon
    Looked great
     
  16. Pav8427
    Joined: Jul 30, 2021
    Posts: 279

    Pav8427
    Member

    A little finesse and a sharp chisel and those rivets that hold the heat shields on usually pop right out when woring from all sides.
    Dont recall ever breaking one.
     
  17. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 9,026

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    ...and if you do, they're quite soft and easy to drill out.
     
  18. Walmart has citric acid in 1 pound containers for about $10. That's about 3 cups (my guess). The good thing about powdered citric acid is you can mix as strong as you like..... vinegar is 5-7% acid. Citric acid has no smell, which I prefer, but vinegar WILL remove rust pretty effectively. Don't forget to neutralize both the part and the solution after use (they are not strong acids, but will attack concrete).
    IIRC those rivets are called "drive screws".... look on the McMaster-Carr site
     
    Lone Star Mopar likes this.
  19. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,262

    Budget36
    Member

    I bought 3 or 5 pounds (can’t recall) off Amazon for 20 bucks as I recall.
    Let my stuff sit in a laundry soap bucket. The dunked in and out with baking soda mix, then rinsed in the shop basin sink.
    The CA left a little blackish residue but for the parts I did I didn’t care about getting it off. Just needed to get some****emblies freed up.
    I liked the “No smell, dump it in the grapevine patch” and forget about it.
     
    SS327 likes this.
  20. This is great information! I have a stock intake off of my .322 that I want to clean up.

    Larry
     
  21. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,504

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There is no Walmart in my city. The closest one is about 20-miles out, across The Bay.

    The closest place that I can buy vinegar is just under one-block.
     
  22. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    I just set up an electrolysis tank to clean up a block and some heads. I worked pretty damn great. IMG_3707.jpeg IMG_3704.jpeg 70317809660__DED34FA8-D91D-47C8-8AAA-5E0AC8B8EF84.jpeg IMG_3695.jpeg IMG_3694.jpeg
     
    Just Gary likes this.

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