Technical Cleaning up lugnut seating surfaces

I have a set of wheels that came off an original car with left hand threads. You know that means two of the wheels got cranked down hard by previous owners trying to remove them.

The metal around the hub and seating surface is in excellent shape, just some galling on the actual chamfer. (from the lug nut transferred to the wheel/material was gained)

Has anyone had success with a junk lug nut and some valve lapping compound? A 60° flute? How would you clean up the seating surface?

And as always thank you for the wealth of knowledge you all proved! Have a great day!

 

I think a pic of what you are trying fix would help.

 

put new nuts on, and go through a few loosen/tighten cycles (at the correct torque). See what happens. And when you put the wheels into service, check the torque frequently, until they hold it well.

 

Have you considered lug nut wheel washers? They protect the lug nut hole and match the taper of the lug nut.. The one's shown below fit 1/2-20 studs and lug nuts. If you have a lathe you could make your own.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...570.l1313&_nkw=tapered+wheel+washers&_sacat=0

 

Don't the left hand, closed end lug nuts have a groove around the outer diameter to let you know that it was a left hand thread ? Lug nut steel washers used to come with the cast wheel adapters.

 

I've polished up the conical seating area on wheels using a lugnut on a piece of threaded rod, with another lugnut cut thin to make a jam nut to keep it tight. Then use heavy valve lapping compound, and a drill motor to spin it. Works very well, but may need multiple applications of lapping compound depending on how bad the galling is.
Just about any old lugnut will work, as they all seem to have very similar taper to the conical cut.

 

That only works if you know that the groove means it's left hand thread. Most guys never notice stuff like that.

 

Jim, thanks for your comment. At least you and I know what it means.

 

I always put grease or never seize on the shoulder and oil on the threads. It's a little late for you now, but it will prevent further firing up of the surfaces.

I haven't had a wheel fall off yet either.

 

Be wary of varying taper. As an example, the local GM Holdens are 45º taper pre-68, and 60º taper thereafter. Some aftermarket wheels also use a ball taper.

Cheers,
Harv