Hi everyone, I have a 1957 150 4 door sedan with a 235 and standard 3 on the tree 3 speed . I am getting a horrible whining noise after releasing the clutch in 1st and 2nd but not in 3rd but that goes away once i enagage the clutch. My plans are to replace the clutch assy and would like to know if there is anything any of you may have come across that may not be in a manual. I have changed the clutch in a '67 mustang but never on the chevy. By checking out the manual it does not seem to difficult but thought I would check with all of you before I start. Since I am having to remove the gear box i thought about getting it serviced since it pops out of 2nd gear once in a while, so does anyone know of any place around the San Gabriel Valley area here in Southern California that they would recommend to take it? So that's it and if anyone could help me out with this I would greatly appreciate it and/or if you have any suggestions on things that i maybe overlooking or could be done while everything is apart, please let me know of that also. Thank you everyone. Ruben
Sounds tro me like a tranny problem instead of clutch. In 1st and 2nd the power flow is through the counter shaft and in 3rd it is straight through. 1st and 2nd put pressure on the input bearing as well as the counter shaft bearings and the gears to get the gear reduction. 3rd puts little pressure on anything and just transfers the power straight through the main shaft. Check the tranny bearings carefully. Especially the input bearing.
Definately have your tranny replaced or reboped. And don't forget to replace the throwout bearing and make sure you have about 3/4 inch of freeplay in the pedal adjustment so the bearing completely releases from the pressure plate. Oh, and replace the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft too! Grease it up before putting the tranny back in.
You probably have one of those "peanut" 3-speeds. I always replaced them with fully synchronized boxes from newer cars or pickups. The repair bill on your existing box will probably exceed finding something stronger and cheaper used. You should be able to retain the column shirt or change it to a floor shift. Bob
i had grinding into 1st and 2nd but not third. sometimes it would slam like i hit something. after checking everything, finally kept working the free play in the clutch pedal and now, no problem. it took a lot of time working that pedal adjustment, but it fixed the problem. early on i had a whinning noise as well.
a grinding noise shifting into gears is from the clutch not releasing. A whining noise from the trans in 1st and 2nd is caused by bearings or gear problems. I agree that problem here is most likely the trans, and also agree that finding a good used trans is a good solution
and cheeper than a rebuild. We rebuild transmissions and its nothing for manual transmission to need six hundred dollars worth of parts... a bearing kit can cost $300.00...all this is without labor charges too....
You can buy an old used 55-57 three speed from $50 to $150 if you look around. Just take off the side cover and check the gears.
That too. I love opening up junkyard boxes, you never know what you'll find. I look at the blocking rings, synchros, shift forks as well. I found one of those old non-synchro boxes that sounded like a maracas with the counter shaft blown out of it. Check the link below, it gives a good idea of what a Saginaw is all about. Bob http://www.student.bfit.edu/automotive/Saginaw 3 spd Manual reduced.pdf
I've rebuilt a lot of the 55-64 3-speeds and I'd vote for replacing it with the later Saginaw 3 or 4 speed.
So with the 235 and 3:55 gearring in the rear the Signaw 3 or 4 speed would be a good match for street and freeway driving? Hey thanks for all the info and advice everyone i really appreciate it. will keep you informed on the progress.
high gear with the original trans, or the saginaw 3 or 4 speed, is all one to one. with 3.55 gears you'll be turning some rpm at highway speed, but you should be able to go about 70 mph at around 3000 rpm depending on tire size
If you go with the 4-speed and get one of the Saginaws with a lower first gear (3.12 or lower) then bump the rear end gears to a 3.33, you'll get highway speeds at a lower RPM. With the lower first gear, you'll still have snap off of the line.
So you're telling a guy with somewhat limited experience to swap to a different style of trans cause the one he's got is worn.A switch to a Saginaw 3 spd will require different tranny shift arms and likely reworking the column shift linkage.The front driveshaft yoke will need to be swapped to the Saginaw spline type.At least the trannys are the same length.And who's to say the Saginaw won't have worn bearings or leaky seals and need some work done on it?As mentioned,the old 3 speeds should be easy to find and a stock 235 6 is gonna be hard pressed to break one unless you're a teenager. If you don't mind a floor shift,switching to a 4speed saginaw is a nice upgrade.
I'd go with the later full syncro three speed as BobSS396 suggested. One should be pretty easy to find in a 70's or so Chev or GMC pickup. I've had one in my 48 for about 20 years and it is smooth and trouble free. Unless you are anal about "keeping it all original" rebuilding the stock 3 speed will soon run into big bux as OnlyChevrolets stated. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
if you get a saginaw from a 70s pickup, be prepared to either turn down or replace the front bearing retainer, as it could be too large OD. Easiest way to fix it would be to luck into a good used trans from a tri 5 chevy....there are some folks who take out perfectly good ones, to replace them with some other newer trans.
I forgot that part, I'm running a V8 pickup bellhousing that mounts on the crossmember. Obtw if you can swap out the clutch in a Mustang the 57 clutch should be pretty much a cakewalk except that with the six cylinder bellhousing you have to slip the clutch and pressure plate out the bottom of the bellhousing. You might feel that you need three hands at some time though. It helps to have the pilot shaft close at hand and ready to stick in through the disk to hold it up in place while you start the pressure plate bolts. AND install all of them before you tighten any of them up all the way. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
I'm partial to using the truck bellhousings myself. They have the drop-out bottom and the ears for the frame mount. Truck bell, clutch, tranny, etc. one stop shopping. Bob
the original 55-57 car bellhousing has the correct ears for the car, as well as the removable bottom cover....the truck bellhousing has a single 1/2" bolt hole at each ear, the car version has two smaller holes, that work with the stock mount.
So many ways to go but will have to decide soon. I do agree that with the cost of rebuilding the original 3 speed (about $585) i could get something better. I had talked to Patrick from Patricks Antique Cars and his input was to go with a saginaw 4 speed but will have to change to floor shifter. Hey thanks for everyones help and input. Will go through all the comments and see what comes out. Ruben
Transmission: When you are putting that clutch back in, install the clutch fork BEFORE you get the pressure plate lined up and bolted to the flywheel. As mentioned, the flywheel clutch and pressure plate drop out the bottom before the bell housing comes off. It's a pain to do alone. I have had to take mine apart 5 times since owning my car and I CONTINUALLY forget to put the blasted clutch fork back in. The last time I did eventally get it back in without taking it all apart, but I had to remove the pivot that the clutch fork mounts to by unbolting it. You'll have to spin the motor quite a bit to tighten all the bolts up evenly on the pressure plate so leave the spark plugs out of the engine while you're doing this and it will make turning the engine much easier. Just once more: bolt the flywheel up, clip the clutchfork on, then put the rest in and then you won't have to spend a weeks paycheck in the wife's swearjar.
Unless this is a restoration type of car, ditch the old 3-speed Muncie trans and swap in a 3-speed Saginaw. I'm sure someone over on ChevyTalk.org has done it and KEPT the stock shift linkage. Your rear end gearing should be 3.70:1, good enough for street/freeway, but if you could find a 3-speed with overdrive, that would be the best way to go. If you're not concerned about swapping to a floor shift trans, then go with a 2 ring Saginaw 4-speed or the MOPAR provided A833 3-speed with integral manual overdrive (used in Chevrolet/GMC trucks). I'm "old school", so 5 and 6 speed transmissions would'nt even get conscidered. If you want to keep the stock 3-speed, just swap to a good used one, P.M. me, I can probably help you out. I have a friend that deals in 55-57 Chevrolet Cars AND Parts. Butch/56sedandelivery.
The Jalopy Journal
