Technical Clutch linkage

Hello, I am trying to sort out the best option to hook up this linkage . The way its hooked up now its a bear to push the pedal down, I hope you can make sense of my drawings. In your reply start with the pedal and give me # hole on the pedal., then the # hole on the short crank, and the hole on the long crank that will give me the easiest push!,,,Thanks RH

 

1 2 1

 

1 on the pedal to 2 on the bellcrank, 1 on the bellcrank to the clutch arm. That will give you the easiest push and will be fine as long as it gives enough travel to disengage the clutch.

 

Its not just about which hole you choose, but the angles of the tabs as they are attached to the pivoting shaft. The one on the pedal side should be rotated toward the pedal and when you push the pedal the tab goes from behind center to in front of center.
The tab on the cluth housing end of the pivot should be just the opposite. They should not be straight down when the clutch is released.

 

Can't beat a manual clutch linkage but there's a reason I did a lot of my customer chassis with an external slave cylinder. TIME

 

But, easier push means less travel, right?

 

1-1-1 would be the easiest push; no idea if it would provide enough travel. Geometry of angle between the push rods and levers is a critical part of set-up too.

 

After you get the linkage sorted consider a Centerforce clutch.

 

The arms must work equidistantly. As @ekimneirbo stated.

 

If it's tough to push it, you need leverage. So the arm doing the pushing, should be at the farthest hole, while the arm receiving the push, should be close to the pivot. You also need to take into account the angle of the arm. Try to have the arm in the middle of it's throw, when it's parallel to the other arm.

 

This is the way to do it !

 

As long as you're fabricating it, why not drill all of holes you have pictured and then actually see
what works best for you?

 

With all due respect, this is backwards.

 

When I did my clutch linkage I as @Bob Lowry suggested, and the idea worked well.

 

I don't see it mentioned anywhere what the actual length of the clutch pedal is? There is a specific ratio for pedals that needs to be followed. From memory 6" to 1 or 7" to 1? I know I built my first brake pedal setup from scratch and had the ratios all messed up. You couldn't push it down with 2 feet! When I went to redo it I basically replicated what Ford had done for it's cars and corrected the ratios. Had to narrow the bell crank to fit into available space and so on until I essentially had what looked mostly like a Ford set up. Here is a mock up pic I did to see if it worked.

 

I thought I would be slick and move the hole down on my clutch arm so make the rod motion more parallel with the clutch master. Bad move old boy... I was not able to push the pedal enough to disengage it.

I put it back in the stock position, monkeyed around with some extra articulation (the parts are in my wall-of-shame trophy case). I just went with a couple of sexy heim joints to tie it together. For me, hydraulic was the way to go.

 

Thanks for the replies. This system is already installed, built by someone else. It seems the popular opinion is for 1-2-1, So that's where I'm going to start.

 

Put the linkage in the 1-2-1 position, made some adjustments and it works GREAT!!!!! Thanks guys!