Do you know if there's anyone in driving distance that is a rebuilder you could take it to and have an over-the-counter conversation with as well as a bench done pressure test done?
It look like there is an undercut area to where the flywheel bolts are. Does the clutch disc metal part fit in that undercut? It's hard to tell from this picture if the flywheel side of the clutch disc is completely flat. Could the metal part be touching the flywheel? Do you have a clutch and brake shop anywhere near you? A buddy had problems with a new clutch slipping on acceleration and not always releasing fully. Like you, we had things apart and together and couldn't figure out the problem. He took it to a local clutch and brake shop to ask if there was any way they could test it. The technician came out from the back and picked up the clutch, took a good look and said the pressure plate isn't assembled right. He took it in the back for about 15 minutes, came out and said it will be good now. It has been for the last 10 or so years and maybe 20K miles.
I could have posted a bigger size but I was concerned about using up bandwidth. Is that still an issue?
The one I used for years, I'm not sure is still in business. I need to check. It's been a while since I did a clutch. I did a quick search and they are still in business, but have moved to another location...I had driven by the old place sometime back and it looked empty. Glad to know they are still around. Of course, they are closed on Saturdays.
It's hard to see in the pic but yes it is recessed for the bolts. The disc fits flat against the friction surface of the flywheel only.
Please check between the fingers of the diaphragm pressure plate for interference. If its bolted down and compressed, is it possible that the fingers are touching each other . I’ve had this only one time in my life , a bb chevy 427 fuel injected direct drive altered . Drove us bat crazy . I hope you understand what I’m trying to describe. Gary
Appears to be OK. The mark on the disc was to check if the center hub was spinning. It is not. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll take any and all at this point.
Is that a 26 spline disc? If it is, go to your local parts store and buy a clutch kit for a ‘88-92 Camaro. That should get you a GM 10.4/10.5 clutch kit in 26 spline. I’ve done a couple flatheads with that McLeod aluminum flywheel and the parts store clutch kits with success.
When you do finally get to the bottom of this, we're all going to learn something. At this point I would say it's a PP issue, but I doubt you got 2 in a row with the same issue.
It may be optical illusions but why does the steel surface on the flywheel look lower than the aluminum around it and why does the surfact of the clutch disk look worn to the rivet heads?
I can't really see how it would make any difference. But would a low-cone diaphram pressure plate possibly make things act any better? How high are the fingers on the stock long-style PP by comparison?
Sorry for being late to the party and not having read all the posts. But if the clutch still slipped on you without the TO being installed, is the a chance the collar of theTKO bearing retainer is just a tad too long and touches the springs enough to just slightly disengage the clutch?
You might want to firm up on that dimension. I've got a Ram clutch supplied for a tko 600 onto a chevy. P/n 98761 which I didn't use because the flywheel bolt spacing didn't fit and I didn't want to redrill. No matter, My quuivalent dimension is 0.170". That about 18 thou less than your minimum dimension. I'd say that's quite a lot when we're talking about lack of grip onto the plate and, if anything, yours should have greater clamping, which clearly isn't the case! There has to be interference or something going on. Hanging up on dowel pins? Bolts bottoming out in blind holes? Chris
Wow. I’ve dealt with some bizarre clutch issues and see most of those ideas/problems already covered here. With everything already mentioned, having been checked. I’d follow Baumi advice above. I’ve had the bearing retainer collar be too long before and it will press on the clutch fingers and release them. Easiest way to check is with a borescope with it all assembled. If you don’t have one available, you can put some clay in there and bolt it together, then disassemble. Although most times you can tell when putting the transmission on the bellhousing. As in, it won’t mate up flush by hand and requires the bolts to pull it in. Just to be triple sure, make sure there is no gap between the pressure plate and flywheel when torqued down. I see full thread bolts in one pic and I’m assuming those are for pressure plate, so that won’t be the issue. Had a car that would slip under heavy load. Someone had installed the wrong bolts in pressure plate. They’d bottom out on the shoulder part of bolt when torqued. Left just enough gap between flywheel and pressure plate to not let it clamp 100% Looking forward to seeing what the solution is!
Since it looks like everything is out, how about you bolt that flywheel to the floor or to a big piece of plywood or something to hold it stationary. Install the clutch as you would in the car and see if you can turn the disc.
This particular transmission doesn't have a T/O bearing collar. The collar is built into the T/O bearing. Weird, yeah but that's how it's made.
Thanks to all who responded. I got a lot of good info and now have a direction to move next. I'm taking the flywheel, p/p and disc to a clutch shop here in Memphis that has been in business for decades and see if they can spot the issue and get it sorted out. That'll have to wait until Monday. I'll let y'all know what I find out. EDIT: The place I thought was still open turned out to be permanently closed. But...there is another place I'm going to try.
Well, I finally found a place in town to take my clutch set-up to. They told me this morning that the pressure plate doesn't have enough "draw", as they call it. They will take it apart and shim the ring to make it right. He asked if I wanted to send it back to where I bought it and get them to make it right but I figured I'd just get another one just like this one, so go ahead and fix it. Plus, they'd have it done by tomorrow. It would take, who knows how long to send that one back, then receive the new one just to (likely) have the same problem. I should know something in the next couple days. Fingers crossed.
I was looking for this thread yesterday to see if you had fixed the problem yet…sounds like you are getting close. Keep us posted and good luck.
I am following along, way to many threads here where people post up issues and never bother to follow up with what eventuated so thanks for keeping the curious amongst us informed. What do the clutch people mean when they say "draw"
I haven't read all the posts...........As long as there is clearance between the TO bearing and clutch fingers it would seem that the clutch must clamp unless there is interference "somewhere". Is there any possibility that that the bearing support for the Tremec might be preventing the clutch from completely grabbing ? Maybe a little too long or something or the throw out bearing touching it,s face and not moving far enough? Only take a little interference to keep the clutch slightly released. Anyway thats my best guess............
I read about a page and a half then skipped down because I was getting ready to go somewhere. When I was first fooling with the hydraulic clutch stuff I made a fixture to mount the components and an engine so that I could see them function before installing them. Then made a Redneck gage that I could slide in place to check the clearance. Never considered that the clutch itself might not be assembled properly. I know from somewhere in the distant past that I've seen the front bearing housing cause interference, but don't remember the exact details. Anyway, I'm glad he was able to solve the problem. Perhaps a few pics showing what they changed for future reference. Here are some pics of the "Engine Rotator" and Hyd Clutch Checker. Heres the homemade gages. The thing about this is that anyone who has an old/extra bellhousing sitting around can easily modify it like this one and be able to get a better view when setting the gap and could actually test the clutch in the car. Then put the real bellhousing in place instead of fighting to get it set right.
The Jalopy Journal
