Hot Rods Coil Spring Install

So ...... Im using the floor jack method as the coil spring compressors seem real sketchy.
I can get them in upsiode down ( flat end on bottom, round end on top) ..... or I can get them in with the round end on bottom - but cant get it indexed properly ..... pics below.

Suggestions ?

 

tried for 4 hours and gave up for today.
Thinking

1) Run upside down (flat end at bootom round end at top)
2) Cut a coil off.
3) Run as pictured - not fully indexed.
4) Try and find an INTERNAL spring compressor and see if I can compress enough to get in

 

I use number four. Flat goes up and should not index in anything. Bottom indexes close to hole in control arm cup. The right tools make it easy.

 

If you don't use a compressor, run some 3/4" all thread through the middle of the spring, with some big ass washers and nuts on the ends. That'll keep the spring from escaping if it slips while you're compressing it with the floor jack.


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What AngleDrive said. You can borrow a spring compressor at any of the big name parts retailers. Put up your credit card and they refund the money when you. Ring it back


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Cut a coil, it'll go in easier.

sent with tin cans and strings.

 

Did this last night.
From advanced auto.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-Coil-Spring-Compressor-Kit-648628/203117073?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D25T-Garage-Automotive|&gclid=Cj0KEQjwx6TJBRCWtsiXpI7bhOYBEiQA1en3F5BraxYhrGTFIoFcf2OEpurG6tm-WUj3CjIxkVnYfxUaAqki8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

Problem is though ........ the width of the "grabbers" is wider than the hole on the bottom of lower controlarm . So Even if I could compress it properly ..... cant pull it back out ......... only potential way would be putting it fully in then backing the bolt FULL out by itself ......... then pull the grabbers out at an angle by themselves.

But the bigger issue ......... is by the time the grabbers 'GRAB' as you tighten down ...... there is 4 inches of threaded rod sticking out the top ......... so cant get the coil in ............. got to be doing something wrong

Cant believe how some of the 'easier' tasks on this truck have turned out to be so hard. Literally 1/2 inch off getting it in properly ........

 

Yes you will need to disassemble the entire tool inside the spring to get it out. I keep the "finger" bolts only hand tight to make them easier to remove. I use a combination of a floor jack, coil spring compressor, and heavy duty ratchet straps. The ratchet straps help to get the upper A arm pulled down far enough to get the nut started on the ball joint. Usually the upper rubber bump stop holds it up just enough to make the entire process seem impossible.
Be careful!

 

This is what worked in the end - see pics.


I came from the topside with just the 1 section (arms/grabbers ) of the tool.
This worked well but as it tightend based of spring coil pulled further and further out.
After dicking around with this for an hour grabbed some wratchet straps to pull back into the spring coulmn. Got it aligned and tightened everything down.








I honestly think the coils are just a little bit too big for this. You can see the final settlement and how they bow just a little. however no engine in at them moment so not sure if be worse or better then.



What an ordeal - only other time I ever did springs was in a 3500 diesel - so much easier ......raise truck ..... drop axle ...... pull out by hands........ lol .......

oh well ..... onto the other side.

Anyone know how camber is adjusted on these vehicles (93 Dodge IFS). Not sure how that angle looks either.

 

I'm surprised you were able to use the floor jack method without having all the front end weight or the frame chained to the floor. that method doesn't usually work. I think when the weight is on springs they will compress some and the bow will straighten out mostly. I've changed dozens of tri 5 and M2 springs using the threaded rod method, never failed me yet.

 

Had jackstands on backside/rearend ...... so it lifted off front until it hit them.

 

Thanks for help/ideas guys.

Any ideas on the camber ? 1993 dodge IFS.

 

Not only no engine , but no front sheet metal either! Talk about the hard way.
I've put together several drag cars with Moroso springs, and no engine ready yet.
Last one, I used a spring compressor to get them started. Then set a jack stand under each lower ball joint.
Then I went down to the HD store and picked up about five 80 lb. bags of sand mix, and piled them on the front fenders and radiator support, plus every human being I could find, sitting on the front, so I could make up the ball joint nuts. Pretty sure I took the sand mix back for credit next trip. Thanks, HD
Problem here is we won't know if the springs are too stiff, for a while yet.

 

No Freekin' engine???

Oh man, I had no idea!

 

Wrap a chain around the top of the frame rail and under the floor jack. This will keep the frame from lifting away when jacking the A-arm up. A trailer also works good for spring removal, just chain the frame to the trailer, then use the floor jack on the A-arm. It's also good to have a small chain around the spring and frame to keep it in place, a friend of my got his arm broke when the spring got loose and hit him.

 

I know you have them in, but I usually put an axle thru the centre and compress the spring in a press, and on opposite sides, wind some 1/8'' welding wire around the compressed coils (grab as many coils as possible, without the wire getting in the way of the top and bottom seats when in the vehicle) and synch up with pliers.. Release the press and fit the bound up springs into place, connect the ball joint to the arm, then cut the wire coils..