I need to color sand my 56 buick, anyone have any tips as to where to begin, what to start with etc. thanks in advance. Mike Suicide56
I'm no expert, but I would suggest as a NEWBIE to color sanding that you stick with 1000 grit and finer. Use LOTS of water - ok LOTS isn't really necessary, but a small constant stream is a definitely good thing. Barring that keep a spray bottle in one hand while sanding with the other. BTW I some people can get by with a coarser grit, but I suggest caution here to prevent any SAND THROUGH!! Which BTW can be avoided by sanding gently and using a 1/4" thick (give or take) piece of rubber. This will be flexible enough to conform to your panel's shape. If your paper starts to LOAD UP - you aren't using enough water! (definitely use WET/DRY paper) When sanding use the rubber to "squigee" the water off. This way you can check you progress by looking at the SHEEN of the paint. IF ONLY IF you have alot of paint - continue to wet sand until you have sanded off all the "nubs" (orange peel) Next comes buffing - I HIGHLY reccomend those SPONGE buffing pads - they aren't idiot proof but ARE VERY FORGIVING!!!!! Way more forgiving than the wool or synthetic. I ALWAYS use the FINE GRIT while using an electric buffer - and remember LESS IS MORE!!!!! I then use 3M Imperial hand glaze also applied with the buffer. Then I apply the hand glaze - well by hand. Start in an inconspicuous spot - sand VERY little - buff - hand buff - check your results - if they are acceptable proceed with rest of car. Some guys like to use 1500 or even 2000 grit for final sanding - for me I just save the 1/2 worn out 1000 grit to use as my LAST go around. Just for the record - I am an admitted amateur - My method is probably far outdated, but it will produce acceptable results. IMHO Good Luck
Thank for your help, This is my first attempt ever at sanding anything at this stage. I believe I have a three stage paint job, where the metal flake is shot on during the clear coat application, anyways there is a ton of clear on my car. I really don't want to screw it up, I started out with 2000 grit and I wasn't really getting anywhere so I should start out with 1000? Thanks again Mike
Mike, I don't think I'd suggest you EXPERIMENT on your metal flake job!!!! Find a junk panel and try out the suggestions (I'm sure there will be LOTS more). But for me - I'd start with 1000. It will sand REAL easy at first as the paper is gliding across the "peaks" of the orange peel. AS you remove these peaks it will become more difficult to sand (more resistance) - THAT signals you are getting close and might be a good time to move on OR go to a lighter grit - if in doubt - squigee the water off so you can get a GOOD look at the panel - look CLOSE - SEE the panel for what it is. Usually you will notice that the ORIGIONAL finish has a gloss - what you sanded does NOT. Water hides this which is why you dry it off temporarily to see what you got. Put it this way - starting with TOO FINE a paper isn't gonna hurt ya!!! Just makes it harder & longer albeit safer process. Try 1500 and get comfortable with it -if you're still not happy with the rate of progress then try 1000. Keep in mind though - when you start with 1000 - you want to eventually go to a little less grit - so pace yourself that you have enough paint left to remove!!! If you truely have a TON of CLEAR you'll be ok - but remember just when you get cocky is when you'll burn an edge. If you have any sharp body lines - or even the seam - pay particular close attention to them!!! It TWICE as easy to goof up there!!! Go slow be patient - you'll risk less that way!!!
i won't even mention using a hookit pad on your d/a with some wet 1500 disk .....just block it by hand.......cheaper than joining the gym.....ha brandon
Hey Mike, Given what ya got tied up in that flake job, I'd hire a pro ya cut and wheel it. A metal flake job is no place ta learn ta cut and wheel a paint job. That bein' said, if there is a ton of clear on this job go slow, it's sometimes too easy to hit the flake in the clear, before the peel is gone. On jobs that the painter buired on the clear, and it came out dry or cobb-like I've shot a guide coat of a contrasting colour to the top coats colour, to save much time colour sanding. The down side of this is ya gotta sand everwhere, the drip rails, the flange returns, the joints, places peel is usually left by most, but the most anal polishers. Most guys get the flats right, but it's the detail work that makes or breaks the job.
Cover the edges and ridges with masking tape and leave those areas until last to avoid burning through them. I used 1200 to 1500 paper on a da sander followed with compounding and than glaze. Remember that you have to take out the scratches put in from the sanding with the compound. Don't go too far with the coarse sanding or you won't have enough clear for the other steps. As I have said before, Stop before it is perfect. Odds are that you will burn though somewhere. I am speaking from experience. Neal
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