<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">Well they're not really uniform. I just went out and measured my spare 30-31 chassis. At the rear cross member it's 1.75" wide X 2.00" tall. In the middle at the crossmember it's 1.75" wide by 4.00" tall. Then it tapers gradually towards the frame horns like the rear of the frame. So a 2X3 or 2X4 will work. I used a 2X3 frame for my A sedan. </TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on"> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Thanks Lucky! i've looked at so many frames i couldn't remember what the original measurements were. i've been thinking about a 2x3 to save an inch when channeling. thanks for measuring! Bryan
There is a reason that they are 4" in the center, when you start to put weight on the frame, the flex will start at the center of the frame, think of a bow&arrow. While 2X3 tubing is alot stronger then the original rails and will be safe, 2X4 is really not that much more expensive and there is an EXCELLENT thread in the tech section on making them look original. A little extra work in the right areas will really make your ride stand out.
Model "A" was indeed 4" at the center ..... I used a '26 Chrysler frame under my '30 Sprot Coupe & its 6" at the center. Why dont you start with a REAL frame & modify from there ? A real frame has so much more appeal, & just plain LOOKs like and old Hot Rod frame..... Where as NEW box tubing frames look like shit sticking out the firewall. Seems nobody wants to build a Traditional Frame for there Traditional Hot Rods any more.